Cooking With Wine

Ahab had his white whale; I have brisket. Recently, I have become mildly obsessed with cooking the perfect brisket which is crusty and barked on the outside and juicy and tender on the inside. I am only in the beginning stages of this particular culinary obsession, but if you want to try some incredible brisket (as well as other bbq), make your way to Smokin Buddha BBQieux. Their brisket is fat and tender, with a spiced bark and rich interior. But more on the city's best barbecue later.

Mad Max sent forth a brawny and polished California Cab this week made by the folks at Five Vintners. Sourced from grapes from St. Helena, Rutherford, and Napa, this cab burst forth with red fruits and smooth tannins. Now, I could have easily grilled a fat porterhouse or thick lamb chops and knocked this pairing out of the park. But, brisket was on my mind. Specifically, a brisket that combined the benefits of braising with the glories of barbecue. Something that would not be too aggressive with the wine, but also stand up to the heavy onslaught or wine power that a California Cab brings to the table.

Marinated, uncooked brisket ready for the grill.

The Taste of Braising, the Texture of BBQ 

That is not an entirely accurate description, but let's go with it. What results in a juicy, lip smacking brisket with a deeper flavorprofile than traditional barbecued brisket while retaining more than a touch of smoke. To accomplish this, first get to marinating. Combine 3/4's of a bottle of stout red wine - Malbec will do- a glove of garlic smashed, a sprig of rosemary chopped, enough salt to fit in the palm of your hand, two bay leaves crushed, and ten or so cracks of black pepper. Mix all of this together, and pour over the brisket. Cover and marinate overnight. 

Get a smoker to hold steady at 225 degrees. I added a 3:2 mix of hickory and cherry wood chips, feel free to smoke with what the good lord gave you. Remove the brisket from the fridge and marinade; reserve the marinade. Pat dry and sprinkle some more coarse salt on top. Place in your smoker, cover and smoke at 225 for 3 hours. Meanwhile, reduce the marinade in a sauce pan until only about a quarter of it remains. 

After three hours, remove the brisket, place on a sheet of foil, pour over the reduced marinade, seal the foil, and place back on the smoker for another three hours or so. After three hours, remove from foil, place back on the smoker unencumbered for thirty minutes or so. Then slice across the grain. 

Last time I made this the Saints dominated the Lions in a playoff matchup. If everyone makes this brisket, no doubt the Saints are going to the win. Throw in the wine, and most likely we are hosting an NFC Championship game next Sunday. The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon from Five Vintners is available at Iris, Commander's Palace, Mr. B's, Houston's, Whole Foods, and The Wine Seller, where it retails for around $37.

Winesday

Peter: Stuck your nose in the glass and you smell a fruit bomb ready to explode. The flavor is much softer on the palate. This is a very drinkable red wine, hardly any spice. Would go great with the veal cheeks and gnocchi on the lunch menu at Lilette. That is if I drank during lunch - which I don't.

Rene: There is a deep, woodsy aroma on the nose like breathing in a pine forest. I get a lot of spice at first and then red fruits, cherries, raspberries, and the like. This would be near perfect with the fat ribeye at Mr. John's alongside the potatoes au gratin, which as the best classic steakhouse in town could use a little bit better of a wine list.

Joe the Wine Guy: The Terrazas Cheval des Andes is a collaboration among the winemakers from Pierre Lurton, Cheval Blanc, Chateau d'Yquem, Roberto de la Mota, and Terrazas de Los Andes. The wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and Petit Verdot and is deep black cherry in color. First aromas are of dried apricots and flowers, warm tobacco scents, red berries macerated in brandy, cherry stones and house made jam, together with cedar-wood, bay leaves, and chocolate. On the palate, the wine is warm and nuanced, with fresh minerals, black currant, spices, and almond. Sweet tannins mingle with a long and elegant finish. Available by special request at Martin Wine Cellar and Wine Seller, this wine retails for $79.99 a bottle.

Winesday

Peter: Good juice. Easy drinking, with not a lot of tannins. Want to take this to the East, via the West Bank so thinking the Korean style short ribs from Tan Dinh.

Rene: This wine has a deep rich flavor with a strong but not overbearing background of tannins. I get loads of cherry flavor and the richness makes me want something dark, salty, and...why am I thinking chocolate. For that, the Grilled Cheese Sandwich with dark chocolate ganache and triple creme cheese at Stella! will hit the mark. And shoot, why not?

Joe the Wine Guy: The Lost Grape returns! This wine is a 2009 Lapostolle Casa Carmenere, the Casa designation denoting exceptional quality grapes from the Rapel Valley in Chile. The wine is mostly all Carmenere (85%) with a small amount of Merlot from Apalta to bring red fruit flavors in harmony with the spiciness of the Carmenere grape. The nose starts out with black and red fruit mixed with some spiciness and white chocolate aromas. On the palate, great acidity blends with juicy red fresh fruit. This wine is perfect with pastas, pork, and grilled red meat. It retails for $15 and you can find it at The Wine Seller, Oak, and Jackson.

Winesday

Peter: I taste a classic California Chardonnay - buttered popcorn wrapped in new oak. This wine needs something with some pepper, maybe BBQ shrimp from Pascal's Manale. Actually, I think the seafood pan roast from Manale's would be better. Or oysters Rockefeller from Galatoire's.

Rene: This is a heavy white wine with just a little bit of citrus back there. For heavy whites like this, I always think of spaghetti in a cream sauce. My favorite of those dishes, which actually shouldn't have any cream in it, is spaghetti carbonara. They do a pretty great version of that A Mano. Or you know what this wouldn't be bad with, crawfish Monica. But Jazz Fest is over.

Joe the Wine Guy: The 2009 Newton Chardonnay is "blend" of chardonnay grapes sourced exclusively from Napa (42%) and Sonoma (58%) valley plots. White nectarine, vanilla spice, baked apple, and caramel are the predominant aromas. On the palate, there is ripe melon and fresh pineapple which persist through a velvety mouthfeel and a lingering citrus finish. Serve it with baked halibut, roasted chicken, or pecan pie. It retails for $20 and you can find it at Hotel Monteleone, Monkey Hill, Wine Seller, and Byblos.

Winesday

Peter: Some good spice but can still taste the grape. High in alcohol though, which is a shame. How about some braised short ribs from Sylvain or the ridiculously good lasagna from Domenica.

Rene: Powerful oak on the nose, smells like the inside of a barn. Lot of heat in the back of the throat from the alcohol. Don't get very much fruit, just woodsy spice. But wine could stand up to something heavy which makes me want Ian Schnobelein's ravioli with veal cheeks, but since that doesn't seem to be on his menu anymore the rigatoni with oxtail ragout, broccoli, and ricotta at Iris would be a good substitute.

Joe the Wine Guy:  That wine is 2006 Domaine Chandon "La Riviere" Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. It has enticing aromas of cocoa powder, red plum, black cherry, and cedar which are a prelude to flavors of black cherry, dried cranberry, cocoa, and cardamom. It finishes with vanilla bean notes which would be perfect with roast rack of lamb with a fig reduction, or maybe a black truffle risotto, or even with a dessert like Black Forest cake. You can find it at Galatoire's and The Wine Seller and it retails for $45.

Birthday Dinner and After Work Today...

One week from today, next Friday, November 21st, Dickie Brennan's Steakhouse will turn 10 years old. Although the restaurant is not old enough to legally drink, you can celebrate with $10 bottles of DB Cabernet. Also, the restaurant is running a Blackened (out?) Prime Rib Dinner for $19.98. So if you wanted to go out to lunch/dinner, but lost your shirt, pants, tie, socks, and shoes in the market, go to Dickie Brennan's and eat like a king for a pauper's ransom.

But get a reservation. To do so, call 522-2467.

This deal will be available all day long. I may go for lunch, if you would like to join shoot me an email. Dinner is out of the question, as the Chairman of the Bored has decided to get married that night. His fiancee refused to move the wedding for this event, what a brat.

Photo courtesy of the internet and google.

Ok, so it is a Friday Night and you just found your Montell Jordan CD. Now often when we speak of wine and food pairings, the food comes first. Usually you order a dish or decide what you are going to cook and then decide on a wine. Well, tonight, why dont you do this. Go to one of the many wine shops in the city: Martin's, The Wine Seller, Dorignacs, the Co Nah Store, it doesnt matter. And pick out something to drink. It does not have to be wine, it could be beer or booze.

Usually on Friday afternoon, any self-respecting wine shop will have a free tasting. I know The Wine Seller is having a tasting of Punt Road wines from 5 p.m.-7 p.m. Find something new and then cook around it. Shrimp is plentiful right now should you go the white route. Or if you choose a red, a grilled steak will always help you kick off the weekend.