Date Night: Fat City Edition

Jay-Z and Alicia Keys said it best, Fat City is "the concrete jungle where dreams are made of." Fat City may have gotten a regulatory scrubbing in the form of Cynthia Lee Sheng's ordinances, but it still has an certain je nais se quoi. The intriguing thing about Fat City, and I am being serious here, is you can see an idea that just didn't pan out like its developers thought. The hordes from Bourbon Street never materialized, the swanky hotels didn't follow, and now it sits like a time capsule that has been opened before it is time.

Luckily, Fat City is a time capsule filled with some of the best ethnic eats in the city. The idea of the Fat City Marathon has percolated in the craw for a few years now. With such an abundance of good food in the area and us traveling out there so infrequently, it only made sense to one time eat multiple meals in the same trip. Hence the Fat City Marathon, which we unknowingly accomplished last Saturday night.

We brought along some friends with us and I began dropping subtle hints in the car. "We really need to come out here one time and eat at Kanno and Korea House."

Cue Laughter.

First stop was Kanno. Where we shared thin ribbons of salmon, their white streaks of fat melting on the tongue rapidly. Bowls of the soft shell miso ("Japanese Gumbo") with its spicy stock killed time before crispy and juicy gyoza. Then nigiri sushi topped with grapefruit red colored orbs of tuna, lightly seared albacore, and giant clam. A plate of squid grilled and served with asparagus and portabello mushrooms could stand in for red meat any Friday in Lent. Bottles of Sapporo consumed, I pressed again, "Hey anyone want to go to Korea House for a nightcap?"

Cue nervous laughter.

Out came the Kanno chocolates and a discussion on mochi ensued. We paid the bill and leaving Kanno the dim lights of Korea House beckoned like the daughters of Achelus. By now the die was cast; we were 13.1 miles into a marathon, no point in stopping now. 

Bottles of Hite and Soju arrived first. Platters of condiments, kimchi, fermented black beans, and potatoes next. Then a glowing cauldron of rice, vegetables, and egg. A healthy dose of gochujang and rapid stirring sent the bibimibap sizzling. Marinated and grilled short ribs, their exteriors crusty, nestled in cups of lettuce with white rice and kimchi was the perfect finishing sprint.

Marathon complete, I couldn't tempt them into a triathlon. "Hey how about dessert, I think Sucre is still open?"

Cue shouting.

It's Been Such a Long Time

In this month's issue of OffBeat Magazine, we profile Kanno, one of our favorite sushi spots that we have not written about in quite some time. While Kanno serves everyone's favorite crunchy, dynamite, and spicy tuna selections, the best eating comes from either those specials scribbled across the chalkboard signs or the yet-to-be-created dishes forming inside Chef Hide Suzuki's head.

So instead of a salad iceberg tossed with the typical carrot and ginger dressing, you are presented with a plate of fresh spinach leaves topped with tuna, salmon, and roe drizzled with a balsamic vinaigrette. Sweet fruits like pear and kiwi are paired expertly in savory selections. Such is the curious dichotomy in Chef Hide's creations.

As for those selections on the chalkboards, these usually feature the freshest fish that Chef Hide could find. So you may dine on delicacies such as abalone sashimi or smoked salmon neck (above).  Now that is good eating.

Kanno - Birdie

3205 Edenborn Ave
455-5730
Dinner Tues-Sat

2010 Challenge: Kanno Gumbo

Gumbo has been on the brain. Why shouldn't it be? The temperature is down right frigid and that North wind is already howling across the lake. Last week we woke up to brisk weather and before we had even made it out of the house, Lindsay asked, "Can you make gumbo this weekend?"

Why yes, yes I can. But first we swung by Kanno where we ran into among other plebians, Dread Pirate Robert. It is really cute how the proprietor, Hide, sets out a "Reserved" sign on the corner of the bar for him. Color us impressed with his clout. First course was a dark, fragrant bowl of soft shell crab miso soup. The color and flavor of the soup had more in common with gumbo than the austere soups most often showcased by Japanese restaurants. It was heady and rich with a high level of spice. Just what we needed to get over the draft that the Pirate brought in with him.

Couple this experience with an ongoing Twitter conversation with Chef Mary Sonnier about gumbos and, in particular, her husband's duck and kale gumbo. Shoot we just had to make a roux and do something with it. 

Heat Seeking Duck and Kale Gumbo

Begin with a whole duck that you have washed and dried thoroughly. Take a paring knife and prick the skin all over - just the tip, just for a second. This will help the fat render out, resulting in a cleaner stock, and bonus DUCK FAT. My advice to you is to begin salting this duck...heavily. Little pepper as well. Then into a roasting pan or cast iron skillet and a 400 degree oven for 45 minutes. Drop temp to 350 for another 15 minutes. You may or may not want to baste this bird with the rendered fat.

Take duck out of oven, let cool, and pull meat from carcass. Reserve the skin and use as a snack. Strain the fat from the roasting pan into a bowl and use for anything you want. Place carcass into a stock pot with some mire poix, white wine, 4 whole peppercorns, 2 bay leafs, and the stems from the kale that you cut and washed while the bird roasted. Cover with cold water. Simmer this for about 3 hours, skimming fat and foam as it rises from surface. Strain, place stock into a clean pot, and keep warm.

Make a roux (equal parts flour and fat, use all purpose and canola for gumbo). I want it to be the color of an old mahogany bookshelf in your grandfather's office so pull up a stool and relax. After the roux is made, add to it the Trinity, finely diced. Saute for about 10 minutes. Then add at least a half tablespoon of cayenne, 4 garlic cloves (minced), a sprig of green onion (chopped), salt, and pepper. Throwing in a bay leaf here would also not be a bad idea. Stir this around and breathe in the aroma of success. Now whisk in your hot stock. I like to start with a small amount. This helps meld the roux and stock together. I used about 6 cups of stock, it made plenty. Bring this to a boil, then lower to a simmer. Toss in your duck meat and the kale. Let cook for about 15 minutes more or all day.

Taste, adjust seasoning and serve with white rice, sliced green onions, parsley, hot sauce, and most importantly, cold beer.

Fish Fridays - Sushi Survey

A while back, Rene and I had lunch with a fellow food writer visiting from NYC. While discussing the various cuisines of New Orleans, The Big Apple remarked: "I usually steer away from sushi when I am down here. I would rather spend my time eating things like oysters and softshell crabs in New Orleans, and save the fresh salmon and tuna for when I visit the Northwest."

I understand that when people visit New Orleans, they are looking for oysters rockefeller, barbeque shrimp, and other dishes which our city is well known for. I'll admit that when I have visitors, I take them to eat po-boys and gumbo as opposed to burritos and burgers. But to dismiss an entire genre of food based on regional stereotypes would amount to missing out on a lot of good eats.

I love sushi and firmly believe that New Orleans has quite a few sushi bars worth dining in during Lent. When I'm looking to avoid weighing myself down with fried seafood and peeling crawfish while wearing suit just isn't an option, I usually turn to raw fish. In this inaugural edition of Fish Fridays, here is my ranking of the 10 sushi bars that I have visited over the last year.

1. Kanno - After your first meal prepared by Chef Hide and his wife Lin, you will never again hesitate to make the journey to Fat City. I'm partial to the Lobster Dynamite Roll and Hot Garlic Softshell Crab, but Hide has never steered me wrong with any of his impromptu creations.
2. Kyoto - While the quality of the rice has varied on recent visits, I still believe that Kyoto serves some of the best sushi in town. Best bets: Poke Salad and the Shrimp Sara Roll.
3. Sushi Bros - Quality fish, sizable portions, and fast service all at an affordable price. The 4 Roll Lunch Special, complete with soup and salad, will run you $11. If you're into more complicated rolls, I recommend the FEMA Roll (pictured top).
4. Sake Cafe (Uptown) - Extensive menu of special rolls with unique preparations and a dizzying array of sauces.
5. Little Tokyo (Mid-City) - According to the menu, fish is flown in weekly from the Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo. If the Japanese style "fish and chips" is available, order it as a starter.
6. Shogun - The first sushi bar in the area. Try the Steve Roll of barbeque eel and avocado.
7. Ninja - Some of the nicest staff in the business. Don't miss the Cajun Tuna Tataki.
8. Rock-n-Sake - At night this place resembles the Jersey Shore, but during Friday lunch the crowd is more my style. Order the Calamari Crunch Roll, but be prepared to battle on the dance floor.
9. Wasabi - The original location on Frenchman is better than the new one in West End.
10. Hana - Big fan of the complimentary noodle salad and the large portions (see the salmon box above), but unfortunately I find the fish lacks in quality behind the others.

Elvis Is in the House

Kanno: You either love it or consider it average. Some argue that only a regular/insider holds the key to Chef Hide's perceived special service lockbox, and so an unknown customer at Kanno can only have an average sushi experience. I'll admit that Chef Hide (affectionately known as Elvis) treats his favorite customers exceptionally well. But here's the thing: anyone can become a "regular" at Kanno, even on your first visit. All it takes is an open mind and a smile.

The Folk Singer had never been to Kanno, and I myself have only been twice before, so we decided to take the Fat City sushi plunge a few weeks ago. The food was rich if not excellent, and the service was even better. I'll admit that I was skeptical walking in the door - wondering whether our experience would even come close to what superstars like the Dread Pirate get. But we did not leave disappointed. Here are a few tips and recommendations for getting the best out of Kanno.

1. Sit at the Sushi Bar - This allows you to establish a rapport with the chef and expedites service. Hide and his wife Lin were the consummate hosts on our visit - offering up complimentary tastes of sake and free pours of ice cold Sapporo to everyone who was eating at the bar.
2. Speak Up - Ask Hide what looks good today and tell him what you like. Tuna, salmon, mackerel, or giant clam. Spicy or sweet sauces. White, brown, or no rice at all. I don't think that I heard the man deny any special request.
3. Order from the Specials - There are boards both over the sushi bar and on the wall in the main dining room. We ordered exclusively from the specials, and I don't think that I'll go back to the regular menu again. The softshell crab miso soup was loaded with onions, and the Lobster Dynamite Roll was rich with a wasabi-mayo sauce. But the hands down winner was the panko fried garlic softshell crab topped with a sauce that had me licking the plate.
4. Go on Saturday Night - Kanno is closed on Sunday and Monday, so on Saturday night Hide is liberal with offering little tastes of the week's specials.
5. Smile - This was the most fun I have had eating sushi since I discovered sake bombing back in '01. Hide and Lin are hilarious and quick to tell stories or just shoot the breeze. Both truly enjoy their work - an attitude which is contagious with their diners.

Kanno - Birdie

Guest Blogger: The Parisian Princess

Ladies, Gentlemen, and The Pope. This is our last entree in the 2009 BOGBTCPIBTTBESC. Peter has been furiously taking the La. Bar Exam this week, and except for an "episode" wherein he misplaced his lucky skinny jeans, he is surviving and likely will return to sanity soon. For our final entree, The Parisian Princess reviews a Fat City Gem.

Kanno

For over two years, I have heard my friend, who I will call ESPNola, rant and rave about the best sushi in New Orleans. Naturally, my thoughts were this place must be Uptown or in Midcity. But alas, I was mistaken. Not only was this “best sushi restaurant” located in Metairie, but it was also close to a series of convenience stores, dry cleaners, and strip clubs. It wasn’t exactly your ideal location for a good meal.

Nevertheless I was intrigued and decided to take my friend up on his invitation for dinner. The restaurant was small with a few guests scattered around two tables and the bar. Right off the bat, I noticed the chef, affectionately known as Elvis, who was chatting with customers and immediately asked ESPNola where his Mother was for the evening. One thing was clear: this place was for locals.

So, I sat down and looked at the specials. Names like the South Beach Roll and Elvis Roll peaked my interest. But in the end I decided to play it safe and order a special Lobster Roll and an old faithful, the Dragon Roll. The Lobster Roll came out first and immediately I was hooked. It was brimming with huge chunk of lobster resting on a roll of snowcrab and avocado. To top it off, it was drenched in eel sauce and a succulent cream sauce also known as “fantasy sauce”. I woofed down each grain of rice and speckle of sauce on the plate wishing the “fantasy” would never end.
My next order, the Dragon roll was good but pretty standard. Everything was “on point”: the eel sauce was sweet, the avocado was creamy, and the crab was firm.
However, it paled in comparison to ESPNola’s Godzilla Roll, pieces of tempura shrimp, snowcrab, and spicy tuna wrapped in rice paper with a heavy dose of fantasy sauce and a sprinkling of rice flakes. After only one bite, I knew that I would have to thank myself for my morning run and order another half order of Godzilla rolls.
To round out the evening, the waiter came by with pieces of chocolate that were sweet and creamy. It was the perfect ending to a great meal.
So the question remains, Is Kanno really the best sushi in New Orleans? The debate is still up in my book. But I wouldn’t mind crossing by signs for g-string divas and cheap beers again to eat some more of that fantasy sauce.

Sushi Scandal

Yesterday Fr. Tom listed his Top 10 sushi bars in the area, and I was pretty shocked a few of my favorite were completely absent from the list. He makes a good point though: the sushi bar that you visit most regularly will be the best place for you. While I agree with this statement, I still believe that some sushi bars serve better sushi no matter who walks in the door. Anyway, without further ado, here are my "Best Sushi Places Left Off of Fr. Tom's List":

1. Kyoto - Some people might claim that this place is always packed only because of the Uptown allure. I disagree. Plus, the Sarah Roll is my favorite sushi roll in the city.
2. Kanno - I think that Robert Peyton is in love with Chef Hide (not that there's anything wrong with that). Just walk in, sit at the bar, and tell Hide that you want the "feed me" or "omakase." If you don't like a certain species of fish, he is usually happy to work around your specific tastes.
3. Sushi Bros - The Folk Singer would buy stock in this place if she could. Their lunch specials are a steal, and I find that the rolls are always bulging with fresh fish.

Note - Fr. Tom also left off Hana, but it's not one of my favorites.