The Most Valuable Burger

From food trucks to high-end warehouses of fine dining, the burger has become this season's must have restaurant accessory. This trend has been growing for years, but recently may have reached critical mass. As NOLA Defender pointed out yesterday, three new burger spots are slated to open in the next few weeks. This is all fine and well. But you can make a much better burger at home than any place in town.

A burger is all about the meat. It starts and ends with high quality meat ground freshly and handled simply. You can add anything you want to your burger, but please start with freshly ground beef. The type and ratio of cuts is important as well. Fifty percent of your total should be chuck. Chuck will provide the body and structure to your burger. The remaining fifty percent is up to you, but you want something with a fair amount of fat (flavor). Brisket ideally, but as Dan Stein laments, "All these burger places using brisket is making pastrami expensive." A good substitute for brisket is skirt.

And how do you get freshly ground beef if you don't have a meat grinder at home? Ask the butcher. Simply walk up to the counter and ask the butcher for a "Pound of chuck and a pound of brisket , ground through a thick grind, but not as thick as your chili grind."

To make your patty, be very careful. First, do not add anything to the meat. No salt, no Tony's, no  family secret marinade, nothing. I find six ounces is the perfect size. Make a patty by forming a ball and then lightly pressing down to the desired thickness. I like a quarter of an inch. Now park the patties in the fridge for about 30 minutes. This is a good time to heat up your grill or cast iron pan, which are the only two ways to cook a burger at home. Season the patties with salt and pepper just prior to cooking. I like to cook the burger until medium. At medium the fat has had time to melt and baste the meat, making for a juicier burger. Anything less and the meat can be chalky. This meat won't dry out if cooked more, but it will lose its appealing rosiness.

As for toppings, I like tomato, thin slices of onion, cheddar cheese, arugula, and Larkin sauce. Larkin sauce is a one to one ratio of mayo and stone ground mustard. You can find good buns at a decent grocery store. Buy them and toast them with some butter. Enjoy your Independence and a great burger.

Burger Bonanza: Phil's Grill

Now that football is over and Mardi Gras has past, the weekends have pretty much opened up for us to accomplish all of those fun things that we have been putting off for the last few months. Clean the gutters, trim the hedges, organize your wine collection, make a couple of trips to Home Depot or maybe even Bed, Bath, & Beyond if you have enough time.

Unfortunately, during this time of year you are also likely to find yourself near the intersection of Causeway and Veterans Blvd., otherwise known as the Metry Bermuda Triangle, where both time and cash have been known to disappear without a trace. Didn't think that it was possible to spend 2 hours waiting in the lobby at Earthsavers or outside the dressing room at Jean Therapy? Perplexed at why a woman would "need" 5 pairs of shoes from Nine West and 6 dresses from Ann Taylor for the 3 spring weddings on her upcoming calendar?

Don't ask questions. Just surrender your credit card, and go forth in search of lunch.

And why not reward your sufferance with one of life's simple pleasures? Phil's Grill was at the forefront of the local burger movement and succeeds in delivering not only a strong to quite strong burger but also a classic burger experience. It's a place where kids can entertain themselves at the table with coloring pages, but mom and dad don't have to settle for the standards of Ronald McDonald. And while you won't find many customers wearing fedoras or menu manifestos on the heritage of the cattle, you will be dining on a burger worthy of hipster approval. Just don't expect to find an easily available parking space - this is Metry and Lakeside, after all.

Phil's menu allows you to customize your burger in an infinite number of combinations or choose from a list of signature burgers which have pre-determined toppings for those who get overwhelmed with too many choices. On my most recent visit, I constructed my burger in the classic style, with a standard black angus patty topped with shredded cheddar, garlic aioli, shredded lettuce (although I could have chose whole leaf romaine), and pickles built upon a soft white bun which is similar to a bakery style deli roll but more resilient than a styrofoam sesame seed bun. The beef is coarsely ground and has a good fat to lean ratio; making for a juicy and flavorful 7(ish)oz. patty. I order my burgers medium rare and TFS takes hers medium, and at Phil's there was a distinct difference between both color and moisture between the two, which shows an attention to detail to temperature preference.

The price of the build-your-own burger also includes your choice of side. French fries are a squared off steak fry which are soft and greasy, which I kind of like in a it's-not-vogue kind of way. The onion rings are even better, with a crunch batter surrounding thin strings of red onion. $10 per person before tip ain’t a bad deal, or for $6 more you can indulge in one of the handmade shakes.

We took our meal at the bar on a recent Saturday, and Phil himself was tending bar, taking phone orders, and chatting up the customers. He asked a couple seated next to us, "So, where is the best burger in Gulfport?" After the couple responded by listing a number of "dive bars" located on the Mississippi Gulf Coast, Phil offered a tidbit of information which I think speak volumes of the mantra behind his restaurant:

"Yeah, in New Orleans, the burgers have always been served in bars. But, you know, you can't bring kids into a bar, so that's partly why I opened this place."

A kid-friendly establishment which serves a burger worthy of a bar. Phil could not have said it better himself.

Phil's Grill - Birdie
3020 Severn Ave.
(504) 324-9080
Open Daily at 11am. Sun-Thur till 9pm; Fri-Sat till 10pm.

One Hell of a Burger

Let's be realistic. Even though we started a new calendar a few days ago, our New Year's resolutions don't take effect until the pigskin is put away for good. And if we had our way, that gluten free diet would not start until February 6th after the big game in Indianapolis. Hell, by that point we might as well just keep the good times rolling another 2 weeks through Mardi Gras, and then follow in Jesus' footsteps with a 40 day fast.

Such was my state of mind on New Year's Day when The Folk Singer and I meandered through the Quarter on our way to dinner before a detoxifying evening at the movies. After waking up under the weather that morning and subsisting on only a satsuma for most of the day, my appetite had recovered and I had one thing on my mind:

Two weeks ago on one of my multiple Christmas luncheons, I dined on this beauty and ever since then have been plotting my return visit. The Steakhouse Bacon Cheeseburger at Dickie Brennan's might have been the best burger that I ate in 2011, a year filled lots and lots of burgers.

"Eats like a steak" is an often overused and inaccurate description of non-steak dishes, but that phraseology is perfectly appropriate for this burger. The flavor profile - beef, iron, beef, worcestershire, beef - comes as no surprise after you consider that the hand-formed patties are made from the ground trimmings of all of those prime filets, rib eyes, and New York strips that you see on the other tables. The burger is grilled over an open flame, just as God intended it. Automatic enhancements include shredded cheddar and pieces (not strips) of bacon - unnecessary but essential to the composition. The foundation is an onion roll, which holds up well underneath the weight of the 10oz. patty; my lone complaint is that the bun was untoasted. Green leaf lettuce, shaved red onion, and tomato (but no pickle) are served on the side, but I don’t bother with anything beside a smear of garlic mayo. The price tag includes a super size serving of house fries, which are more akin to potato wedges than their thinner, crunchy matchstick siblings. I like to dip mine in a side of bearnaise.

At $13.50, this burger and fries qualifies as the budget conscious, but no less enjoyable, version of a fancy steak dinner. During my luncheon a few weeks back, several of my tablemates scoffed at my choice, wondering why I would choose a burger over a filet or ribeye. Their judgment turned jealousy after we finished eating. Of course, my victory at credit card roulette is a plausible alternative explanation.

Unfortunately, my craving for this burger went unsatisfied on New Year's Day. (The restaurant was closed for a private event.) Thankfully, I will have several opportunities this week to indulge. While the burger is typically served only in the main dining room on Fridays during lunch and in the bar every night, during football season the burger makes an appearance on Dickie's Game Day Menu, which is offered during lunch and dinner on days when the restaurant opens early for special occasions. Those days include: today for the Sugar Bowl, on Saturday for the Saints-Lions game, and on Monday for the BCS Championship.

The Steakhouse Bacon Cheeseburger - Birdie/Eagle
Dickie Brennan's Steakhouse
716 Iberville Street
(504) 522-2467

Burger Bonanza: Cowbell

Cowbell

Burger - This is your typical backyard grill burger all grown up. The thick patty made from all natural beef is one of the most flavorful burgers in the city, and the grill knows what a proper medium-rare burger should look like. The bun is sublime - a soft, toasted potato roll with lots of give. Dressings are served on the side - roma tomatoes (others not in season), thinly sliced red onion, and leafs of iceberg. No pickle though.

Fries/Rings/Sides - Fries are thicker cut and more rustic; not exactly crunchy but crispy enough and delicious. I don't recall if onion rings are on the menu. The macaroni/cavatappi and cheese is a rich and creamy appetizer or burger supplement, though on my most recent visit the $6 portion appeared to have reduced in size by 50%.

Sauce - Agogo sauce is a house made mayo kicked up with sriracha, roasted garlic, honey, and "other stuff." The sweet, garlicky, kind of spicy sauce is unbelievably delicious. I like it slathered on the burger, as a dip for the fries, and as a moisturizer for my skin. Housemade ketchup has a prominent cinnamon flavor, which isn't really my thing.

Service/Ambience - The renovation of this former gas station at the end of Oak Street is a fun, eclecticly adorned, communal space to dine in. Since the weather has turned cool, the seating capacity doubles with tables out front in the parking lot and underneath the overhang. Inside there are a few deuces, several 6 tops which are often shared by multiple parties, and the bar (my favorite place to dine). The staff wears floral patterned aprons which appear to have been pulled straight from Grandma's linen drawer. Motown's greatest hits plays from the speakers, in what can be a very loud dining room.

Lagniappe - Cowbell is not a one hit burger wonder. Clam chowder, doctored up grilled cheese sandwiches, skirt steak, and a general latin flair covers the rest of the menu. The bar pours a short but interesting array of beers, housemade punches, and wines. Corkage is listed at $10,000,000,000 - give or take a few zeroes.

Price - A burger will run you $10.95 plus an extra $1 for cheese, but that price includes a boatload (or more accurately, a red and white checker basket) full of french fries.

Overall Assessment - Unlike most of the other burger specialists recently opened around town, Cowbell is a full service restaurant which just happens to serve one hell of a burger. At $11 for a burger and fries, the cost of food alone is equivalent to that at gourmet burger spots which offer fast-casual service. Sometimes we pay a few dollars more to be waited on, and that is a premium which I will gladly pay for at Cowbell - especially if I can manage to smuggle out a bottle of agogo sauce in The Folk Singer's purse.

Cowbell - Birdie

8801 Oak Street
Tues-Sat 11:30am-3pm; 5pm-10pm (till 11pm on Fri-Sat). Closed Sun-Mon.
(504) 298-8689

Burger Bonanaza: The Company Burger

Editor's Note: Welcome to Burger Bonanza, Blackened Out's newest series which catches fire for a few weeks before our boredom and laziness lead to unfulfilled expectations. (At least we are consistent in delivering disappointment.) The humble hamburger - that most American of all foods - has taken New Orleans by storm over the past 12 months. Burger specialists have been popping up all over town, and with many claiming that they serve the best burger in the city, figuring out which burger best fits your taste/budget might require consuming more ground beef than your cardiologist is comfortable with. Thankfully, last month we found a great deal on black market Lipitor, so we are free to survey the current burger fad and report back on our experiences.

The Company Burger

Burger - The namesake burger is modeled off the Holeman & Finch burger, where owner Adam Biderman trained. Two thin patties (maybe 4oz. each), bread and butter pickles, lots of melted American cheese, and thinly sliced red onions. The burger patties are cooked medium and turn out flavorful and juicy. The sweetness of the bread and butter pickles is different, but it works well. Props for using freshly baked brioche buns, but as a personal preference I think that the bun is a bit too firm and that the bread to meat ratio is tilted too far in favor of the former.

Fries/Rings/Sides - Fries are thick and long, crisp but not crunchy, and pair well with the burger. The serving size though left me wanting more. Red onions are used for the rings; the crunchy batter adhered well to the thick rings, but they are a bit greasy. Tater tots, sweet potato fries, and pimento cheese round out the rest of the menu.

Sauce - The “Mayo Bar” allows you to customize with roasted garlic, bacon, chipotle versions and more. The basil mayo is great for french fry dipping.

Service/Ambience - Order at the counter and wait for your name to be called. Service at the counter is not exactly rapid fire, but the wait for your food is not long at all. Dining room features tall ceilings, lots of polished steel, and TVs for game watching. Table seating for about 40 and bar seating for 10. Adam Biderman is a very involved owner and his presence is reassuring that a firm hand is on the wheel of this ship.

Lagniappe - Menu also includes a turkey burger (excellent), pork belly corndog (as good as it sounds), and hot dog from Cochon Butcher (never had it). Drinks are taken seriously, whether your thirst is quenched with a cocktail, beer, or freshly squeezed lemonade, which is tart and sweet and refreshing.

Price - The namesake burger is $8.50, and the single runs in the $6 range. Fries are a la carte at $2.

Overall Assessment - Some people hate on using American cheese, but I actually like it. The most common complaint that I have heard/read about The Company Burger is that the prices are too high. I can't really disagree - The Folk Singer and I once spent $30 on 2 burgers, an order of rings, order of fries, coke and a lemonade. (No booze for those of you paying attention at home.) Still, this is a very good burger, in my opinion. One worth spending money on.

The Company Burger - Birdie

4600 Freret Street
Sun-Mon & Wed-Sat 11am-3pm, 5pm-10pm. Closed Tuesdays.
(504) 267-0320

Trip Report: A Desert Oasis of Burgers & Fries

The Slider Trio at Burger Bar.  All photos courtesy of Renee B. Photography.

Two weeks ago The Folk Singer and I ventured out to Las Vegas for a well-timed work conference. In between titillating continuing legal education classes and night time networking events, we were able to squeeze in a few research and development excursions for MVB, and we brought along Willy Wonka, our resident burger aficionado, as our neutral taste tester. Considering the high likelihood that most of our readers will at one point find themselves wandering the Strip in search of burgers and fries, here is a quick report on two of Sin City's most popular choices.


Nutella Shake at Burger Bar.

After a nice dinner at Fleur on my previous trip to Las Vegas, I decided that Chef Hubert Keller's cooking warranted a second tasting, this time at his wildly popular Burger Bar, also located in Mandalay Bay. Apparently we were not the only patriots craving a ground beef version of Americana, as upon arrival we saw a crowd of 50 people gathered outside the restaurant, which equated to a 25 minute wait for our table.

The menu boasts quite a number of choices - 4 burgers (angus, organic, kobe, and buffalo), 5 buns, 30+ toppings, and 4 types of fries. Out of respect to The Pope's mantra of "go big or go home," I ordered the kobe version, and I must say that it was delicious, as it should have been for $17. The angus, on the other hand, was not nearly as flavorful.

The buns were a step above grocery store styrofoam but nowhere close to freshly baked. French fries were frozen, but I was a huge fan of the 6 different dipping sauces available. Onion rings and zucchini fries could have easily been replicated off the menu at T.G.I. McFunsters.

The high point of the meal was hands down the Nutella milkshake topped with dark chocolate whipped cream. Other than the Moorea Beach Club, this shake is probably the only reason that I would make the treak out to Mandalay Bay again.

Burger Bar Las Vegas - Par

Many a West Coaster has succumbed to the strong call of this siren. As someone who had never before experienced the pleasure of a Double-Double, most of my prior knowledge concerning In-N-Out Burger came from watching The Big Lebowski. (If Donny says that those are good burgers, that's all the validation that I need.) I have heard friends rave about In-N-Out for years, but with each instance of praise I thought to myself: "How good can a fast food burger really be?"

The answer: Very good. Yes, it is fast food. But to lump these burgers into the same category as McDonald's is a crime against humanity.

All of the ingredients tasted fresh, and the burgers stand tall with thickly sliced onion, tomato, and a heap of lettuce. The burgers themselves were thin, greasy goodness, and I especially liked how the cheese melted over, in between, and around the two patties. I had done some research beforehand, so I ordered my burger "Animal Style" - with mustard fried into the burger, the usual dressings, plus grilled onions, and extra spread (like thousand island dressing). I highly recommend.

The fries, in my opinion, were average, but TFS said that I was being a food snob. (Likely.) Regardless, the menu boasts fresh-cut fries, for which In-N-Out deserves unending praise.

The place was a circus during our time there, with customers lined up 10 deep at every one of the 5 registers, and everyone jockeying for seats inside the restaurants lest they be relegated to the 110 degree heat at the tables outside. But the food came forth fast, every employee was smiling and chatting us up, and we left vowing to return.

In-N-Out Burger - Birdie