Dooky Chase's: Is It Worth It?

The story of Dooky Chase's and the larger tale of African Americans in New Orleans is not mine to tell. It is not my history. But it is part of New Orleans' history, a key part in fact. I wont suggest, as others have, that eating at Dooky Chase's is some sort of African American history survey class. That one can understand the struggles and triumphs of a group of people in between the gumbo and the fried chicken. Let others do that; I am here to talk about the food. And the food is damn good.

Since that fateful August day, Dooky Chase's has only been open for lunch. Recently, they opened for Friday night dinner, but still your best bet to dine at Dooky Chase's is at lunch. Now, the crowning day at Dooky Chase's is Holy Thursday when Leah Chase crafts a peppery, green hued gumbo that brings in movers and shakers. Much like Communion and Thanksgiving, it is a day where the food you eat pales in comparison to the communal dining which takes place.

Lunch centers around a buffet stocked with a salad (skippable, save for the olive salad), starches, vegetables, beans, and if you are lucky fried chicken. But lets start with the greatest dish in the Creole battery: red beans and rice. Now, you may think shrimp po boys or chargrilled oysters are the standout dish round these parts. But you are wrong. Red beans and rice is the dish of New Orleans, and while no one makes them better than you, the version on offer at Dooky Chase's is pretty fantastic. The beans themselves are more herbacious than you may be used to bursting forth with thyme, perhaps rosemary, and maybe some oregano. The beans at first seem tame, but when you begin to cut into the fat rounds of chaurice, all is well and right.

Macaroni and cheese was the only disappointment, clunky and bland. Green beans, soft and tender, ride shotgun with discs of red potatoes. But forget all of that. If the fried chicken is out, focus your energy and effort there. The crust cracks under the slightest pressure releasing a torrent of chicken steam, known worldwide for its ant-wrinkle properties. The meat is moist and delivering a salty spice punch with each bite. I've been known to devour eight pieces at a time or for you ornithologists out there, a whole bird.

Following your repast and just when you may desire a nap, out comes a buttery bowl of peach cobbler. Just the thing you need before getting back to the office.

Dooky Chase's: Is It Worth It? Absolutely.
821-0600
2301 Orleans Ave.
Lunch Tue. - Fri.; Dinner Friday.

Hungry Thursday

 

Holy Thursday in New Orleans proved to be a day for serious eating. First stop was Dooky Chase's for gumbo z'herbes and fried chicken. Now you probably know the story. You eat gumbo z'herbes on Holy Thursday to fortify yourself for the days of fasting ahead. you use an odd number of greens for good luck/letting you know how many new friends you will make, eating the gumbo means you don't have to go to church on Good Friday. You know, basic Catholic stuff. For another take on Holy Thursday, check out NOLAnotes.

The gumbo is very peppery and pungent, not mind you, spicy. The greens melt into the stock both thickening and flavoring the soup. I could have eaten bowls of this gumbo. Scratch that, I should have eaten bowls of this gumbo. Plus, a 2 piece order of fried chicken hit the spot. The crust on the chicken at Dooky's is some of the finest in town: firm, well-seasoned, and liable to shatter all over your shirt. But this batch of chicken was a little dry and under seasoned in the meat portion. Let's chalk it up to it being their busiest day of the year.

Our fried chicken appetites whet, Lindsay and I headed around the corner to Willie Mae's Scotch House for a bowl of black pepper laced red beans and rice and some more fried chicken.

The fried chicken at Willie Mae's is noticeably different than other genres around town. First off the coating is a bit more luxurious more resembling the wet batter you find on Mandarin chicken. The coating has more heft to it and tends not to crackle and splinter like old paint. The interior of Willie Mae's chicken is very juicy and well-seasoned to the bone.

 

If I could design the perfect piece of fried chicken it would have the crust from Dooky's and the interior of Willie Mae's. But until they merge, I am content to keep eating both.

Jazz Fest Food

When it comes to Jazz Fest, there are two kinds of people: those that go for the bands and those that go for the food. Place us in the latter category. Every festival goer has his/her favorite foods (mine meat pies for me, cochon de lait po-boy for Peter), and chefs are no different. This article in the Jazz Fest Bible put out by offBEAT Magazine, gives you a chef's eye view to eating right on da grounds.

The food at Jazz Fest is so extensive and diverse that one would need to attend everyday in order to try it all. But if you had to pick just a few things to eat at the Fair Grounds, what would they be? Is crawfish bread really worth waiting in line for? What's the most underrated food available? Is there anything wrong with just drinking Miller Lite all day and baking in the sun? Let us know your thoughts in the comments.

Whatever you are eating this weekend, remember to bring your pancho because it looks like it's going to be a wet one.

Dooky's, Sucre, and Something Sweet

Full Disclosure: Peter and I graduated with Dooky Chase from Jesuit. Still, if you have not gone to Dooky Chase's yet, please do.

Sucre the expansion.

Finally, an intriguing article on New Orleans.

Pick up a print copy, read some tangible this month.

That ought to keep ya busy for now.

For Lunch Today...

Its raining and that makes me think of Irma Thomas. As such something with some body, some meaning, and quintessentially New Orleans to eat would fit the bill. Easy choice here: weather for the ducks calls for Gumbo. I don't care where you go for it. Perhaps you may want to duck into Herbsaint or Cochon and sit at the bar for Chef Link's always amazing Gumbo of the Day. Some critics* of this blog have mentioned my man crush on Donald Link. Fair enough, I won't deny it but his gumbo may be the finest in the city.

Maybe you would like to go Liuzza's By the Track. Perhaps just pop into Lil' Dizzy's. Gumbo Ya-Ya at Mr. B's. Or wait till dinner time and pick up a quart of gumbo from Leah Chase at Dooky Chase's. Your call.

What is your favorite gumbo?

*By critics I mean the 2 of the 4 readers of said blog.