Short Order Reviews

We're starting off the shortened 4 day work week with a quick list of Short Order Reviews which revisit a few places which have fallen off our radar as of late.

Grand Isle - After hearing about all of the charcuterie that Chef Mark Falgoust is curing in house (but refraining to partake of those specialties on a Friday during Lent), we decided to bring The Folk Singer's parents here on a Sunday night so that they could eat fried seafood and I could indulge in pork. Gargantuan fried oysters filled a few po-boys around the table, but I focused my attention on the ham and white cheddar melt placed in front of me. Mother's may claim to have the world's best baked ham, but this may be the real deal Holyfield. Each thin slice of ham is surrounded by a crunchy, sweetened, black crust, stacked high and covered in melted white cheddar and caramelized onions on a brioche bun. The sandwich, while expensive at $13, was executed flawlessly. Terrible french fries though. - Par/Birdie.

Courtyard Grill - With 5 tables filled in the front courtyard a few weeks ago, this is the most crowded that I have seen this quiet Magazine eatery. The shaded deck is a nice setting on a day when the mercury stays below 85, but those days are probably behind us. Hummus was standard but good; the house baked bread is a vast improvement over the standard pita served elsewhere. TFS had the Yogurt Chicken Kabob, which was off-putting texturally with its soggy bread buried beneath chunks of grilled chicken covered in yogurt and the house specialty tomato butter sauce. I fared better with the spicy Lamb Adana wrap in crispy lavash. Lebanese tea was syrupy sweet in a non-refreshing way. I don't know how this place stays open, but it is still a great option for a cheap lunch. - Par.

Poke Salad at Kyoto.

Kyoto - A 20 minute wait lets you know that this is one of the few Uptown restaurants open for dinner on Monday nights. We started with the Poke Salad, which was the best execution that I have had here in a long time. An almagamation of seaweed, squid, avocado, thin half moons of cucumber and chunks of tuna mixed with a sweet and hot chili dressing, the salad has so much going on yet comes together so well. This night once again confirmed my belief that the Sara Roll, filled with spicy shrimp and avocado and then topped with a crunchy/spicy sriracha crown, is my favorite roll in town. The Dynamite Roll was disappointing with only tuna and no salmon, and while the fish was served at the right temp, the rice was much too cold. At $35 inclusive for 3 rolls and a Poke Salad, this was a surprisingly cheap dinner date, but of course neither of us were drinking. - Par/Birdie.

Fish Fridays - Sushi Survey

A while back, Rene and I had lunch with a fellow food writer visiting from NYC. While discussing the various cuisines of New Orleans, The Big Apple remarked: "I usually steer away from sushi when I am down here. I would rather spend my time eating things like oysters and softshell crabs in New Orleans, and save the fresh salmon and tuna for when I visit the Northwest."

I understand that when people visit New Orleans, they are looking for oysters rockefeller, barbeque shrimp, and other dishes which our city is well known for. I'll admit that when I have visitors, I take them to eat po-boys and gumbo as opposed to burritos and burgers. But to dismiss an entire genre of food based on regional stereotypes would amount to missing out on a lot of good eats.

I love sushi and firmly believe that New Orleans has quite a few sushi bars worth dining in during Lent. When I'm looking to avoid weighing myself down with fried seafood and peeling crawfish while wearing suit just isn't an option, I usually turn to raw fish. In this inaugural edition of Fish Fridays, here is my ranking of the 10 sushi bars that I have visited over the last year.

1. Kanno - After your first meal prepared by Chef Hide and his wife Lin, you will never again hesitate to make the journey to Fat City. I'm partial to the Lobster Dynamite Roll and Hot Garlic Softshell Crab, but Hide has never steered me wrong with any of his impromptu creations.
2. Kyoto - While the quality of the rice has varied on recent visits, I still believe that Kyoto serves some of the best sushi in town. Best bets: Poke Salad and the Shrimp Sara Roll.
3. Sushi Bros - Quality fish, sizable portions, and fast service all at an affordable price. The 4 Roll Lunch Special, complete with soup and salad, will run you $11. If you're into more complicated rolls, I recommend the FEMA Roll (pictured top).
4. Sake Cafe (Uptown) - Extensive menu of special rolls with unique preparations and a dizzying array of sauces.
5. Little Tokyo (Mid-City) - According to the menu, fish is flown in weekly from the Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo. If the Japanese style "fish and chips" is available, order it as a starter.
6. Shogun - The first sushi bar in the area. Try the Steve Roll of barbeque eel and avocado.
7. Ninja - Some of the nicest staff in the business. Don't miss the Cajun Tuna Tataki.
8. Rock-n-Sake - At night this place resembles the Jersey Shore, but during Friday lunch the crowd is more my style. Order the Calamari Crunch Roll, but be prepared to battle on the dance floor.
9. Wasabi - The original location on Frenchman is better than the new one in West End.
10. Hana - Big fan of the complimentary noodle salad and the large portions (see the salmon box above), but unfortunately I find the fish lacks in quality behind the others.

Kyoto

I really like Kyoto on Prytania and often claim that they serve some of the best sushi in the city. Unfortunately, my last visit was less than stellar. Our selections included (clockwise from top left): Rock 'N Roll, Funky Margarita Roll, Shrimp Sara Roll, and Rainbow Roll.

Across the board (or plate), the rice was not properly prepared. It was served at a much colder temperature than is optimal - causing the grains to become hard. Honestly, if the rice is bad, then that flaw basically destroys the meal no matter the quality of the fish.

Speaking of, notice the different colors of the tuna in the Rainbow Roll and the Funky Margarita Roll. In the bottom left corner, the tuna is a pale pink while at the top right the tuna is a vibrant red, which is usually a sign of freshness.

The Funky Margarita was a nightly special of spicy tuna on the inside, fresh salmon and tuna alternating on top, and then a generous stripe of an avocado-lime sauce spiked with tequila. Unorthodox? Yes. But a fine combination of flavors in my opinion.

But the Sara Roll is one I always get at Kyoto. I have yet to find a similar roll in town. Chopped tempura baby shrimp with a unique spicy/crunchy sriracha and tempura flake mixture dolloped on top. I love how the heat of the chili sauce and the crunch from the tempura contrast with the sweet and soft texture of the shrimp.

Kyoto - Bogey for now, but I know that they can do better and will soon return seeking vindication.

Sushi Scandal

Yesterday Fr. Tom listed his Top 10 sushi bars in the area, and I was pretty shocked a few of my favorite were completely absent from the list. He makes a good point though: the sushi bar that you visit most regularly will be the best place for you. While I agree with this statement, I still believe that some sushi bars serve better sushi no matter who walks in the door. Anyway, without further ado, here are my "Best Sushi Places Left Off of Fr. Tom's List":

1. Kyoto - Some people might claim that this place is always packed only because of the Uptown allure. I disagree. Plus, the Sarah Roll is my favorite sushi roll in the city.
2. Kanno - I think that Robert Peyton is in love with Chef Hide (not that there's anything wrong with that). Just walk in, sit at the bar, and tell Hide that you want the "feed me" or "omakase." If you don't like a certain species of fish, he is usually happy to work around your specific tastes.
3. Sushi Bros - The Folk Singer would buy stock in this place if she could. Their lunch specials are a steal, and I find that the rolls are always bulging with fresh fish.

Note - Fr. Tom also left off Hana, but it's not one of my favorites.