Summer Reading Happened So Fast

Fact: Summertime is the busiest and most active season for travel (Source: The Internet).

Hopefully you have a trip, vacation or travel planned in the next few months to relax and rejuvenate your soul. And of course prepare you for another football season filled with coaches eating grass while starting a quarterback that only plays well in B tier Bowl Games. But I digress.

Now wait you might be saying, trips, vacations, and travel, isn't that the same thing? No. They are each different and require a different book to maximize the experience. So without bidding you further adieu, here is the Blackened Out Guide to Leaving Where You Live and Reading Gooder.

A Trip-  Trips have a specific purpose and oftentimes they are not how you would choose to use your frequent flyer miles. Out of town weddings, visiting relatives, or going to a doll convention are examples of trips. For this, you want a book that allows you to get absorbed into someone else's more fanciful life. For that, Anthony Bourdain's Medium Raw is a perfect fit. This collection of essays explores food, but perhaps more subtly the changes Bourdain has gone through since becoming a star. Throughout the book I noticed a tinge of regret, that maybe what Bourdain wishes he would have become one of the chefs he has spoken so effusively of over the last 10 years. His piece of Justo the fish butcher at Le Bernardin is worth the price of admission alone. Plus, it is in hardback which means your Aunt will probably think you are really smart.

The Vacation- From the early Latin word for "chill out", a vacation is somewhere you go to get away from it all. Key distinction about a vacation is that the location hardly matters. For instance, you can take a beach vacation in Florida, Biloxi, St. Maarten, the Eastern Shore, Malibu, Hawaii, or Dubai and it will be almost exactly the same. There is lounging in the sun, maybe a round of golf for the sporting types, a fishing excursion for those who are into torture, and the drinking of copious amounts of cold, alcoholic beverages. Same goes for things like skiing, bird watching, and spelunking. For a vacation, I like to read historical crap, something with a story arch, but not anything with dragons or vampires. This way when you return from your vacation, you aren't totally braindead and can add something to your Monday night trivia team. Thus, read The Food of a Younger Land by Mark Kurlansky. First, the backstory, during the Great Depression, the government hired a bunch of writers to chronicle what people were eating in America. The manuscripts were due in December 1941. Cue World War II, and the manuscripts sat untouched for over 60 years, before Mr. Kurlansky unearthed them and published the series.

Travel - Travel is the most intense of all wanderings. It is when you put yourself in an unfamiliar land and immerse yourself in the culture of others. It can be frustrating, it can be rewarding, and it should be challenging. No all inclusive or guided tours here. You blaze your own trail, eat native foods, and drink wine you can't pronounce. You need a book that echoes that adventure. Which is why you should read Jacques Pepin's incredible book The Apprentice. In this book, Pepin chronicles a lifetime spent cooking and learning how to cook. Consider it a front row seat for why food matters in America again.

Summer Reading List

I hope at some point this summer you find yourself with nothing to do but read. And not because you need to or have to, but because you have nothing better to do. So be it a hot, Sunday afternoon when all you can do is lay down on the couch and suck in cold air, or a Tuesday at the beach, here are some books you may want to read. Note, not all the books I loved, but maybe you will. If you disagree with my assessments, that is the whole point.

Far Flung and Well Fed is an archive of R.W. Apple's (nickname Johnny) best writing on his favorite topic: eating. In short, informative articles he relates to you the methodology behind Uglesich's or where to find the best dumplings in Shanghai. Of course, once you read Apple's writings on say truffles, reading the rest of the books on this list may seem unnecessary.

Do you like cheese, punk rock, and the politics of anti-Reaganism? If you do, then you will love the Cheesemonger: A Life on the Edge by Gordon Edgar. The book chronicles Edgar's rise from a nihilist, protesting San Francisco punk aficionado to the head cheesemonger of the Rainbow Cooperative in San Francisco. To be honest, reading more than half of the book proved challenging. The over reliance on a literary device known as "too cool for school" drove me away. But there are some redeeming qualities, such as his near encyclopedic knowledge of the world's best cheeses.

If you are new to wine or old to wine, you have to read Adventures on the Wine Route by Kermit Lynch. The author has thrived as a retailer, importer, merchant, negociant, and winemaker by focusing on the winemakers who actually give a shit about making good, honest wine at affordable prices. Besides, if you (like me) have ever wanted to know the difference between Burgundy, Bourdeaux, Premier Cru, and Rose, this is your book to gain knowledge of French wine without signing up for a snooty, pretentious class.

The food intelligentsia always points towards M.F.K. Fisher for the truest expression of writing about the joys of food. In As They Were, flowery essays detail an idyllic time in the writer's life. From growing up in California to eating trout bleu in years between wars, Fisher recounts how her kitchen in Provence behaved. Is this short review boring you? Good, because the book bored me.

I am halfway through Jeffrey Steingarten's two books, The Man Who Ate Everything and It Must Have Been Something I Ate, which means I have finished precisely none. You may know Steingarten as the really snooty, condescending judge on Iron Chef, particularly the one who gives Bobby Flay shit. But in both books he comes off as only slightly less abrasive. However, he is funny and all his stories are well-researched and well-written. His stories trod a similar path to those written by Apple - short, informative chapters telling you everything you need to know about salt or where to eat in Paris. Plus, Steingarten takes every opportunity to lambaste the diet freaks, salt control boards, anti-fat crusaders, and no fun eating task forces which have plagued, and continue to plague, this country.

Jay Rayner is a judge on Top Chef Masters, which incidentally is proving itself the better, more athletic, charming, smarter, pretty younger sister to Top Chef. Rayner is also the food critic for the London Observer, which I am told is a newspaper and not a voyeur club. The Man Who Ate the World: In Search of the Perfect Dinner chronicles traveling around the world to Moscow, Dubai, Las Vegas, Tokyo, New York, and Paris in search of the perfect meal at the world's best restaurants. This book rocks. Very few of us will ever have the chance to eat in even one of these restaurants, yet throughout the book Rayner manages to come off as humble and ever thankful for the opportunities he has. He relies a little too much on the hooker and cocaine jokes, but in general he does a very noble job of chronicling the malaise of eating out all the time.

What are you reading this summer?

Kitchen Confidential & Blackened Out Trivia

While on an extended drive, nothing helps pass the time faster than a book on tape. During last month's jaunt to Tennessee and North Carolina, The Folk Singer and I listened to the audio version of Kitchen Confidential, Anthony Bourdain's behind-the-scenes expose of the culinary world. The book had me concentrating on the storyline more than the road ahead of me - not necessarily a safe thing but it gives you an idea of how much I enjoyed it. Bourdain takes you through his youthful summers in France, culinary school at the CIA, and his seemingly never ending job postings in the kitchen. His personal anecdotes are humorous and entertaining, but he also offers insight into the nuts and bolts of working in a kitchen, as well as some practical advice for us wannabes.

And I almost forgot the best part: Bourdain himself narrates the book. Thus, the audio version takes on a more conversational feel than the print version; a touch which adds a certain something which draws the listener in even more.

Exactly how many times can you read/listen to the same book? Well, in this case for me it was twice in 8 days, but usually the answer is only once. So, our dear readers, we have decided to share the wealth and offer you a chance to listen to Bourdain tell tales of the underbelly of the food world. It's perfect for that upcoming Labor Day drive to the Flora-Bama. (NOTE: Bourdain loves dropping the f-bomb, and there are one or two sexually explicit tales, so this one might not be for the kiddies.)

In this inaugural edition of Blackened Out Trivia, the winner will receive the above slightly used audio copy of Kitchen Confidential which will then be autographed by The Pope. The first person to email the correct answers to all of the below questions will be the winner. If you have a pseudonym on this blog, then if you win, we will send the prize to a person of your choosing. OK, here we go:

1. What libation is commonly referred to by The Pope as "holy water"?
2. Its 4 am. The Pope has decided to go home from the Red Eye, but not before stopping where, for what?
   
3. What menu did The Folk Singer order at The French Laundry?
   
4. On the night that Blackened Out was born, in what restaurant did Legend knock over an entire tray of waters and affectionately pinch a waitress's derriere?
5. What is the maximum number of Ojens a person should consume per 24 hour period?
   
6. What local pie maker once chaperoned Legend on one fateful night during Spring Break?
7. What is the Dread Pirate's favorite place to eat sushi?

There they are. 7 questions; 7 answers. Email your answers to blackenedout at gmail dot com. This is better than winning Powerball.

In Late Winter We Ate Pears

This book arrived at the Blackened Out Media, LLC World Headquarters, Self-Sustainable Farm, and Lawnmower Repair Store a few weeks ago from the good people at Chelsea Green. Reading this book was like taking a vacation. The authors, Deirdre Heekin and Caleb Barber, operate Osteria Pane e Salute in Vermont. Their book, mostly written by the fairer member of the marriage, paints a picture of Italy as a place to return to again and again for inspiration, relaxation, and enlightment.

The writing is simply stunning. Ms. Heekin crafts sentences in a deliberate and simple manner with just a touch of flair, remarkably similar to classic Italian cuisine. The book is divided into four sections, each one representing a season. Each season is then subdivided into short, concise chapters. For instance, in winter Deirdre spends a few pages relating her experiences visiting with a winemaker. In spring, the couple recharges their batteries in the Lake Como area. Each chapter is easy to read and a feast of the imagination.

Following each section, are recipes. These recipes are from their experiences in Italy which pepper the proceeding pages. Just a good summer read. Get a copy today and understand what it is to love a place as a home from afar.

On The Line and Some Porkographic Announcements

Santa brought your bloggist in residence a bunch of food related goodies. But not On the Line, by Eric Ripert and Christine Muhlke; that one Old St. Visa had to drop down the chimney. This kitchen table book* chronicles the day to day challenges faced by a restaurant with 3 Michelin Stars, 4 Stars from the New York Time, and likely an Eagle from this outfit should we ever review them.

Le Bernardin began when Maguy and Gilbert Le Coze decided to open a version of their highly successful Parisian prandial palace in New York. Eric Ripert came on board in 1991 and since then Eric and Miss Le Coze (Gilbert passed away in the mid 90s) have made Le Bernardin an icon. Le Bernardin has had a two plus decade adventure as one of the finest restaurants in New York, if not America, if not the entire wormhole that is the Milky Way Galaxy.

After reading this book, it becomes clear that running such a successful restaurant requires a level of organization, training, cooking, and (truth be told) mind reading that the average restaurateur lacks. To anticipate the requests of a diner before he makes them, to pull out a lady's chair before she gets up, to keep an eye on the temperature outside as an indicator of what to serve, etc... That is talent.

The thing I found to be most interesting were the lists and "By the Numbers" sections which chronicle everything from the amount of tuna prepared weekly to the monthly florist bill. Also, did you know that of the four Captains at Le Bernardin, two began their careers as dish washers? I did after reading this book.

Beautiful photos abound in this easy to read tome. Quotes, stories, and anecdotes pepper the pages and keep the story moving. Plus, a section of recipes you will never try. One memorable bit discusses how for several months a regular patron came in 4 times a week with a party of ten and requested a completely different tasting menu each meal. That my friends is L-I-V-I-N-G.

If you like behind the scenes chronicles of restaurant life, or really behind the scenes chronicles of anything, this would be a good book to purchase and add to your repertoire. Plus, if you have ever heard Eric Ripert talk, you can read the whole book in his unique brand of Franglish.**

Pork is proof that there is a God. As proof of this proof, Cochon Butcher and Boucherie will battle it out for new restaurant/foodie palace of the year for 2009. I have it on very good authority that Cochon Butcher will hopefully open on January 20th. And Boucherie will begin dinner service on January 13th. You should go to both.

*I just invented this term. Its mine, you cant have it.
** This one also.

Lamar Burton's Reading Rainbow Time

St. Louis makes me read, a lot. A quick review of culinary literature consumed in the past few months.

Heat, Bill Buford. Mid-life Crisis hits the former editor of The New Yorker and he ends up working in the kitchen of Mario Batali's Babbo restaurant, originally to write a profile on the man in the orange clogs. This launches him into a new career as a cook and food writer. He travels to Italy to learn about pasta and butchery and explores the inside of a celebrity chef's working kitchen. Heat is more than a hagiographer's obsession with a subject. In fact, I believe this book soured the relationship between Batali and Bufurd. Highly recommended if you liked Kitchen Confidential.

Roasting in Hell's Kitchen, Gordon Ramsay. A depressing chronicle of the escape from an abusive father which ultimately led Mr. Ramsay into the kitchen. That being said, an amazing book and a glimpse into what drives individuals to succeed. Perhaps at times the book is a little self-gloating and would love to read Marco Pierre-White's version of the same events; but Mr. Ramsay captures why running a fleet of world-class restaurants is so stressful and rewarding to him.

The ____ of a Chef, Michael Ruhlman. Making of a Chef chronicles Ruhlman's time at the CIA. Soul of a Chef explores what drives chefs towards perfection. Great look behind at both Michael Symon of Lola and Thomas Keller of French Laundry. The section on the Master Chef Exam is interesting, but like the test itself, pointless. The Reach of a Chef explores the age of the celebrity chef. The Soul of a Chef is my favorite of the three. Mr. Ruhlman's writing style is clear and concise while always hinting that there is more, much more below the surface. In a way, his writings make you want to explore the CIA and world class kitchens yourself. Although one can't help but envy his unadulterated access to some of the world's best chefs and kitchens. Of course once this blog gets Peter and I a TV show, that access should fall right in our lap.

Tender at the Bone, Ruth Reichl. I must admit I thought I would not like this book. Luckily, lowering expectations provided the ability for me to enjoy the book as much as I did. Not sure if that is a backhanded, backhanded compliment, which would just be a compliment. Mrs. Reichl's writing explores food as a pathway through her own development. Mrs. Reichl's wit and humor carry what at times is a very sad story, all the while using food memories as trailmarkers. The book includes recipes which serve as the Proustian trigger for Mrs. Reichl to connect her to her past.

How I Learned to Cook, Edited by Kimberly Witherspoon and Peter Meehan. Easy read. This book puts the story writing in the hands of over 30 chefs to tell their story of why they cook. Some chapters are only a few pages long, but all have a common theme: mistakes. Almost every story chronicles the time in a chef's training when they made an absolutely monumental mistake, got in way over there heads, or fell ass backwards into a job they were unqualified for. It is these mistakes which taught them a lesson and contributed to their success. Which should give hope to all amateur cooks about making mistakes in their own kitchen. Probably the most interesting part of the book is reading about the perfect TV host, Sara Moulton's, entry into professional cooking. Mrs. Moulton it appears once had a penchant for the marijuana and hard partying, not surprising as a chef, just surprising to read about concerning her. Then again almost every chef in this book was a stoner at one time. Good news for stoners, like the Kid Who Didn't Go to France.

A Year in Provence and French Lessons, Peter Mayle. I want to read the rest of Mr. Mayle's books. In a Year in Provence, he chronicles the move of he and his wife to a small town in Provence (althought you could have got most of that from the title). If you have been to France and enjoyed the eating, drinking, and lifestyle, then you will enjoy this book immensely. In French Lessons Mr. Mayle drinks and eats his way around the French Countryside exploring festivals of culinary delights, such as the Frog Legs Festival.

The Nasty Bits, Anthony Bourdain. A collection of smaller essays on eating, drinking, traveling, fame, and Mr. Bourdain's own life. Here is the only problem with this book. Because of Mr. Bourdain's near omnipresence on the Travel Channel (not a bad thing), I can not read his books without hearing his voice in my head (perhaps not such a good thing). However, much like How I Learned to Cook, the essays do not require one to invest any more than a 20-30 minutes at a time. I would put the Nasty Bits right below a Cook's Tour and above Kitchen Confidential, which is to say a good read. The above was written with Mr. Bourdain's voice in my head.

The French Laundry Cookbook, Thomas Keller. I had been putting off buying this book for a while now. My rationale was, "what could I possibly replicate or learn from a cookbook so clearly out of my league." Buying that cookbook and merely trying a recipe would be the equivalent, for me at least, of making a dress for Heidi Klum. However, the book is surprisingly approachable. Take for instance, Mr. Keller's instructions for making his Chive Chips. He walks you through the process of peeling, shaping, slicing, baking and cooling the potato chips with clarity and precision. A beautiful book with lots of pictures, co-written by Michael Ruhlman, The French Laundry Cookbook has the added benefit of making one look cool and being useful. The complete opposite of Slap-Bracelets.

Thats it for now. Go back to Work.