Tomasito's

In the last 5 years the Warehouse District restaurant scene has grown in leaps and bounds in terms of breadth and depth. Whether you're craving cochon de lait, raw oysters, barbecue, sushi, spaghetti alla carbonara, or shepherd's pie - it's all there within 3 block radius. And with the opening of Tomasito's, you can add a Tex-Mex enchilada to that list.

Owner Tommy Andrade has expanded his business across Tchoupitoulas from his eponymous restaurant and wine bar by opening a restaurant where mass quantities of chips, salsa, and margaritas are consumed by those who don't mind spending more than places like Superior Grill. The interior's dark woods and tile floor replicates an upscale hacienda, but the courtyard and covered patio out back have the most desirable tables, at least while the weather cooperates. Service outside can be painstakingly slow, even when the restaurant is empty, but as long as your margarita pitcher is filled, you probably won't mind.

Meals begin with complimentary chips and salsa. If dining with a group, chances are that you will order the Gringo Duo ($13), which includes a large bowl of respectable queso and guacamole loaded with so much lime that it almost tastes effervescent on the tongue. The margaritas are delicious but expensive, with the highest grades running over $40 per pitcher. The house version is $15, but as The Folk Singer said, "I am OK with paying more to avoid the guaranteed hangover."

The menu includes tacos, burritos, enchiladas, and fajitas in different iterations using steak, chicken, and shrimp. Fish tacos are fried nuggets in a tortilla slathered with so much chipotle crema that the heat overpowered everything else on the plate. Steak fajitas were grilled inconsistently so that some pieces were still cold in the middle and others overcooked crisp. Either way, the beef was not very flavorful. The accompanying tortillas were obviously pulled from a cellophane bag and the rice was low grade, but the beans were acceptable.

The enchiladas though are another story. I am a sucker for cheese enchiladas, and Tomasito's are well executed if not a little different. The tortillas are folded over instead of rolled and cooked dry without a sauce, the slightly crispy exterior leading me to believe that they were cooked in a skillet. I asked for the classic red sauce instead of the cheese sauce (cheese on top of cheese?), which was deeper in flavor than most - closer to a mole sauce. The verde enchiladas (pictured) are filled with shredded dark meat chicken and melted cheese and then topped with a vibrant sauce made from tomatillos.

The new standard bearer of Tex-Mex cuisine, Tomasito's is not. A nice place to sit outside and sip a margarita on Cinco de Mayo? Absolutely, just remember to order the enchiladas if you get hungry.

Tomasito's - Par
755 Tchoupitoulas
(504) 527-0942
Dinner Mon-Sat

The 5th of May

Raise your hand if today's agenda includes (1) imbibing enough tequila to fill Lake Pontchartrain,(2) eating a bucket of chili con queso, (3) an oversized sombrero, and (4) a samba line to "Feeling Hot, Hot, Hot."

Happy Cinco de Mayo.

But a bit of background before we start licking salt and sucking limes. Contrary to popular belief, Cinco de Mayo is not Mexican Independence Day (which is September 16th), but a celebration commemorating the Mexican Army's victory over the French at the Battle of Puebla. In Mexico, Cinco de Mayo celebrations are mostly limited to Puebla and border towns full of gringos.

Who cares? In New Orleans it's just another reason to throw a party, and plenty of restaurants are getting in on the action. Superior Grill will undoubtedly be bursting with people lined up for 6 deep at the bar, as will Chevy's, Cuco's, Serrano's, and the like. Taqueria Corona, Nacho Mama's, and the Rum House will be popular with the Uptown crowd, likewise for El Gato Negro and Tomatillo's with the French Quarter and Marigny folk. Felipe's has locations in both areas. Taqueria Guerrero, Taco San Miguel, and Taqeuria Sanchez fall into the category of "you know it's authentic because they only play Mexican television." I will probably stay close to home and visit Salsas por el Lago in West End, which will be the subject of a "Your Call" in the near future.

But the most important choice you make today will be what to drink. Beer lovers have a plethora of Mexican options: Corona, Dos Equis, Tecate (in a can is my personal favorite), Modelo, Sol, Estrella, Pacifico, and Bohemia to name a few. If you fancy a margarita, the questions are: Frozen or rocks? With or without salt? Classic or fruit flavored? Or you can just shoot Cuervo all night long - it's really up to you.

Wherever and however you celebrate, beware that The Pope set the bar pretty high on a trip to Tijuana two years ago. Details of that day are hazy at best, but let's just say that after "mas tequila" at the Coko Bongo, La Papa somehow managed to cross back over into the U.S. while armed with a blow gun and a ceramic frog holding a sign which said "Bienvenidos." He then bought 11 bags of churros from the peasant vendors on the bus and ate himself into a cinnamon and sugar covered coma.

¡Olé!