OffBeat Eats

The Company Burger.

After an LSU victory over Johnny Football on Saturday and a hard fought Saints win in Tampa on Sunday, we have every reason to be all smiles at the office today, which is a rare occasion for a Monday. Still, it's tough to make the transition from two days of full of football bliss and beautiful weather to a week of TPS reports and breathing in recycled air from within the friendly confines of your cubicle.

Experience has taught me that easiest way to warm up to the work week is an escape during Monday lunch. Sure, it's easy to stay inside munching on carrot sticks and a turkey sandwich because you need to "make up" for the 17 beers and 9 breakfast tacos you shoveled down your gullet during pregame festivities on Saturday morning for the inexcusable 11:00am kickoff. Or you could keep the good times rolling with a double burger covered in melted in American cheese on a squishy brioche bun with thinly sliced red onions and bread and butter pickles.

In this month's issue of OffBeat Magazine, we review The Company Burger, the local burger specialist which has risen above the burger fray to establish itself as the preeminent purveyor of ground beef in patty form. Don't forget to grab a side of chipotle or basil mayo for fry dipping.

The Company Burger - Birdie
4600 Freret Street
Sun-Mon & Wed-Sat 11am-3pm, 5pm-10pm. Closed Tuesdays.
(504) 267-0320

B.T.G.: Rosé Edition

The selections of wines being poured at B.T.G.: Rosé Edition.

In the "Speaking Out" column of the July issue of Food & Wine, Eric Ripert and Anthony Bourdain offered their perspectives on current food trends. With regard to pop-up restaurants, Bourdain said:

"Pop-ups are a good thing. But what I like most are restaurants with visiting chef programs. I love it when I hear a chef say, 'We have a guest chef coming in and doing a menu for a couple of days.' I think that's great. Coupled with a sort of theatrical booking concept - 'Now appearing Laurent Gras, with Laurent's menu: buy your tickets in advance' - I think that's really exciting."

Maitake mushrooms and grits.

Whether B.T.G. qualifies as a guest chef event or a pop-up restaurant/wine bar is a matter of semantics, in my opinion, as the concept embodies characteristics of both. While The Company Burger chef/proprietor Adam Biderman presumably has a heavy hand in designing the menu for B.T.G., he gets by with a little help from his friends and former co-workers from the Link Restaurant Group. Joe Briand handles the wine, while Ryan Prewitt is running expo. And although no "theatrical booking concept" is involved, the excitement in the air at B.T.G. is as thick as our fair city's summer time humidity. Once inside you get the sense that you are part of something special, but you're not sure just exactly what that is. The feeling made me nostalgic for the MVB glory days.

While B.T.G. bills itself as a pop-up wine bar, I can say with conviction that the majority of patrons are more interested in the food. Regardless, those who appreciate a well contrived list of interesting wines at affordable price points - even those who shun rosé as a trend which jumped the shark back in the summer of 2009 - would have been smitten with Joe Briand's selections. All total there were 11 wines to select from (compared with a food menu of just 6), all available by the bottle or the glass. Their origins ranged from well known rosé regions like Provence to less prominent selections from Germany, Austria, and even Lebanon. Hefty by the glass pours ranged from $5-$7 and the bottle list topped out at $35, with most priced at $30.


Brown butter sweetbreads.

The brief menu was comprised of dishes whose only common denominator was seasonality. A panzanella salad ($8) featured the season's first creole tomatoes whose bright red color evidenced unbelievable freshness. Buttery crunchy croutons were softened ever so slightly by the natural juices from the tomatoes, and garlic and charred onion brought a little spice and heat that complemented the herbaciousness of the basil and sweetness of balsamic vinegar. The earthiness of sauteed maitake mushrooms, better known as "Hen of the Woods", was offset by a squeeze of lemon and the richness of grated parm, with thick, rich grits providing the backbone of the dish ($10).

I am a sweetbread fanatic, and over the years I have deduced that the best preparations highlight the richness of these glands without causing overkill. La Boca's grilled sweetbreads are the apotheosis of this method. B.T.G.'s brown butter sweatbreads ($12), lightly crusted with flour and seared on the griddle, are a close second. What made the dish was the corn and squash sautee underneath, which brought crunch and contrast. The presence of The American Slider ($3) - a miniature version of the namesake Company Burger adorned simply with griddled onions and melting American cheese - was a nice bridge to the true identity of the restaurant. Krystal ain't got nothing on these babies.

We arrived at 7:00 just when service began. By the time we left just before 8:00, the line at the counter was 15 people deep and inside table space was at a premium. The speakers played an eclectic mix of tunes ranging from Dr. Dre to Stone Temple Pilots and Michael Jackson. The vibe had edge and pretentiousness acceptable only when backed up by great wine and food. Mission accomplished.

B.T.G. - Birdie/Eagle
4600 Freret Street
Tuesday nights

Mad Props

Well, that was quite a Saturday.

As expected, Hogs for the Cause was a resounding success by all measurable accounts. Despite a little mud (OK, a lot of mud), the weather gods blessed us once again, and I have the farmer's tan to prove it. The teams went above and beyond this year with their entries, from candied bacon sno-balls and pork belly banh mi sandwiches to some excellent ribs, which category I was lucky enough to judge. The musicians brought down the house several times, and the pork lovers showed up in droves. There was even a special appearance by an entire groom's party just an hour or so before the wedding. (Shhh, don't tell the bride.)

The Company Burger.

The big winner of the night was, of course, the cause. Next in line was The Company Burger, whose team took home the Grand Champion award. Even though (or perhaps because) I toasted the High on the Hog winner with many a beer and bottle of champagne at City Pork on Saturday night, I decided that an encore was in order on Sunday, so I headed over to Freret Street in search of hangover relief.

The Company Burger delivered in all its beefy, juicy, cheesy glory, as did a generous order of thick, crisp fries dipped in basil mayo. And this may sound strange, but I am a sucker for that soft pellet ice. The mini carrot bundt cakes with cream cheese frosting looked very tempting as a dessert option, but after consuming approximately 13lbs of pork the day before I thought it was in the best interest of my cholesterol levels to exercise self restraint.

We will return tomorrow with our regularly scheduled programming.

Notorious B.T.G.

Culinary innovation is nothing new in New Orleans. Places like Antoine's and Galatoire's are credited with inventing Oysters Rockefeller and the six hour lunch that turns into dinner, respectively. Later, Paul Prudhomme's blackening technique would cause more than one legislative body to pass a law or two limiting fish counts. And now New Orleans, while not the first to embrace the fervor of the trend, has run towards the temporary eatery in a permanent space.

Until now the pop-up restaurant's gracing New Orleans's streets have focused on specific foods. There is the original and still the best, Pizza Delicious. There have been noodle joints, barbecue bivouacs, pie purveyors, Asian vegan ventures, and even one inside of F&M's- a spot more known for coeds dancing on pool tables than fine food. Now in a reversal, a restaurant will turn into a bar. 

Tonight at Company Burger, Joe Briand turns Company Burger into his Platonic wine bar. There will be food as well from the capable, studied hands of Adam Biderman; but make no mistake the focus is on wine. "Doing it for fun really. Adam is excited to cook something other than burgers and I just want to showcase some wines by the glass that aren't on lists at the wine bars in New Orleans," Briand said by email. 

The explosion of Freret Street has been well-documented and a great boon to the city. B.T.G. hopes to capitalize on what has become a consumer magnet. A magnet that attracts a specific diner, "Look at what's going on on Freret Street.  You've got Cure doing amazing cocktails, Ancora with an wine list that's all from Campania, just people doing new things.  Our ideal customer wants to drink something new and different." says Briand. 

The wine menu - and it is only wine - is a romp through the offbeat wines of the Old World. Things begin with a Manzanilla Sherry and a Patrick Piuze Chablis, that speaking from experience is an incredibly focused white wine, with lemon and stone flavors (see With Oysters below). There is an Italian white and Gewurztraminer from Abe Schoener, who is such an eccentric wine maker he might as well be European. The darker side features a Tami Frappato, a Nuits St. George from Domaine Faurey and an '89 Cornas from Robert Michel. At $10 a glass, that last red adjusted for inflation is basically free. 

Also, featured will be a selection entitled "The Best $5 Glass in Town" highlighting a Gruner Veltliner from Stadt Krems and a Cab/Syrah blend from Provence. If you are a fan of wine bars that actually charge a fair price for an interesting glass of wine, this is going to be your ChristmasKwanzaKuh. With wines by the glass (get it now?) ranging from $5 to $16 (a Cramant sparkler), you don't have to break the bank to sip a glass of wine. Which is the way it should be. 

As for the food, raw Blue Point Oysters ($1 a piece), deviled eggs, chicken liver terrine, sweetbreads, and seared scallops should provide all the ballast to what is sure to be a night of indulgence. About that, but Joe I thought you left the restaurant biz to get away from the insanity of that lifestyle? "My wife calls it restaurant A.D.D.  There is an immediate gratification in the restaurant biz that is kind of addictive.  We will see how this goes. Again really doing it for the fun of it," Briand explains.

Well, this should be fun. B.T.G. is cash only and starts pouring at 7 p.m. See you there. Need more info? Hit Joe up on Twitter @cartedesvins.

The Incredible Edible Egg

One of my best friends from college always told me that there is but one principle to live one's life by:

"If one is good, then two MUST be better."

In regard to food, many chefs have tried to uncover all-encompassing augmentation which will improve almost any dish. Unfortunately for them, I have never come across a sushi roll which benefits from being deep fried in tempura batter, a dip in a chocolate waterfall cannot mask the texture of less-than-fresh fruit or dry pound cake, and a heavy shower of creole seasoning or Tabasco only overpowers a flavorless pieces of meat.

But if you add a fried egg to just about anything, you have increased the odds of me ordering that dish by about 50%.  And I must not be the only one easily persuaded by the temptation of a rich, flowing yolk because lately chefs have been supplementing all kinds of dishes with a fried egg. Perhaps it's the inner stoner in all of us that craves some combination of breakfast with just about any other food, but no matter whether I am completely sauced or stone cold sober, the phrase "add a fried egg" is as strong a call for me as the song of the sirens.

Below are four of my favorite dishes in the city which feature an addition of a gratuitous egg*:

• Bayou Banh Mi Special (Geaux Plates) - Owners Henry Pulitzer and Andrew Gomila take their version of the Vietnamese po-boy to another level by adding a fried egg to the combination of lemongrass grilled chicken and boudin.
• Tutto Carne Pizza (Domenica) - The staff favorite features four house cured meats - fennel sausage, bacon, salami, and cotechino - plus a fresh egg cracked in the center of the pie.
• Breakfast Burger - I remember when the waiter used to have to check with the kitchen before he let you order your burger topped with a fried egg, but now everyone's doing it. Capdeville, The Company Burger, Cowbell, and Tru Burger all feature a fried egg as an optional add-on to your burger.
• Pork Lovers Rice Plate (Tan Dinh) - How do you improve on a plate full of chargrilled pork, pork pate meatballs, pork chop, and shredded pork? Top the whole shebang with a couple of fried eggs, of course.

Did I miss out on any eggscellent dishes?  Let's hear about them in the comments.

*There, of course, other dishes in which the egg yolk plays an integral (if not) essential role.  The spaghetti with guanciale and deep fried poached egg at Herbsaint and Green, Eggs, & Ham at Vizard's are two which immediately come to mind. But here I am focusing on those dishes which are great on their own but taste even better with a gilding of the golden lilly.

Burger Bonanaza: The Company Burger

Editor's Note: Welcome to Burger Bonanza, Blackened Out's newest series which catches fire for a few weeks before our boredom and laziness lead to unfulfilled expectations. (At least we are consistent in delivering disappointment.) The humble hamburger - that most American of all foods - has taken New Orleans by storm over the past 12 months. Burger specialists have been popping up all over town, and with many claiming that they serve the best burger in the city, figuring out which burger best fits your taste/budget might require consuming more ground beef than your cardiologist is comfortable with. Thankfully, last month we found a great deal on black market Lipitor, so we are free to survey the current burger fad and report back on our experiences.

The Company Burger

Burger - The namesake burger is modeled off the Holeman & Finch burger, where owner Adam Biderman trained. Two thin patties (maybe 4oz. each), bread and butter pickles, lots of melted American cheese, and thinly sliced red onions. The burger patties are cooked medium and turn out flavorful and juicy. The sweetness of the bread and butter pickles is different, but it works well. Props for using freshly baked brioche buns, but as a personal preference I think that the bun is a bit too firm and that the bread to meat ratio is tilted too far in favor of the former.

Fries/Rings/Sides - Fries are thick and long, crisp but not crunchy, and pair well with the burger. The serving size though left me wanting more. Red onions are used for the rings; the crunchy batter adhered well to the thick rings, but they are a bit greasy. Tater tots, sweet potato fries, and pimento cheese round out the rest of the menu.

Sauce - The “Mayo Bar” allows you to customize with roasted garlic, bacon, chipotle versions and more. The basil mayo is great for french fry dipping.

Service/Ambience - Order at the counter and wait for your name to be called. Service at the counter is not exactly rapid fire, but the wait for your food is not long at all. Dining room features tall ceilings, lots of polished steel, and TVs for game watching. Table seating for about 40 and bar seating for 10. Adam Biderman is a very involved owner and his presence is reassuring that a firm hand is on the wheel of this ship.

Lagniappe - Menu also includes a turkey burger (excellent), pork belly corndog (as good as it sounds), and hot dog from Cochon Butcher (never had it). Drinks are taken seriously, whether your thirst is quenched with a cocktail, beer, or freshly squeezed lemonade, which is tart and sweet and refreshing.

Price - The namesake burger is $8.50, and the single runs in the $6 range. Fries are a la carte at $2.

Overall Assessment - Some people hate on using American cheese, but I actually like it. The most common complaint that I have heard/read about The Company Burger is that the prices are too high. I can't really disagree - The Folk Singer and I once spent $30 on 2 burgers, an order of rings, order of fries, coke and a lemonade. (No booze for those of you paying attention at home.) Still, this is a very good burger, in my opinion. One worth spending money on.

The Company Burger - Birdie

4600 Freret Street
Sun-Mon & Wed-Sat 11am-3pm, 5pm-10pm. Closed Tuesdays.
(504) 267-0320