Drinking the Haterade... Kind of

As far as new restaurants opening in New Orleans, the biggest headline of the year has definitely been Rick Tramonto and John Folse's partnership in the Royal Sonesta Hotel.  But while that project seems to be a long time away from fruition, another huge project now appears to be full steam ahead. Walk-On's and Happy's Irish Pub, both of Baton Rouge, will open in 1009 Poydras Street, the former homes of both Smith & Wollensky and Maylie's.

For those who are not regular attendees of Fall Saturdays in Tiger Stadium, the original Walk-On's is located in prime real estate on the edge of the LSU campus. The self described "bistreaux" has likely surpassed The Chimes as the #1 pre- and post-game watering hole. "This is the Baton Rouge version of 'Cheers,' where everybody knows everybody," according to their marketing director.*

Walk-On's also serves food, but apparently the menus in Baton Rouge and New Orleans will not be the same. "'We'll have a completely different offering in Baton Rouge and New Orleans,' Hains said. 'We're developing a special product line for this location.'"

That's a good start, because the food at Walk-On's in Baton Rouge is, in a word, bad. The menu reads like a pseudo-Cajun version of Chili's or Applebee's - Cajundillas, boudin balls, boneless wings, and blackened alligator. Don't get me wrong, I love a basket of waffle fries just as much as everyone else.  All I'm saying is that I usually eat at Walk-On's out of necessity, meaning it's midnight after the 2008 LSU-Alabama game and all I want to do is drown my sorrows by inhaling mozzarella cheese sticks.

I will admit that Walk-On's in Baton Rouge has a fun, upbeat atmosphere where most people (including myself) enjoy throwing back a few beers with their friends. But the food is mostly frozen, fried, or pre-prepared. The majority of New Orleans locals demand better. I have no doubt that Walk-On's on Poydras will crush the lunch business once it opens, but I would hate for convenience and low cost to prevail at the expense of local eateries that may cost a little bit more and take longer to serve but uphold the standards of dining in New Orleans. And considering the prime location, who knows how many visitors staying at the newly renovated Hyatt will wander over to Walk-On's. What impression of New Orleans cuisine will those diners return home with?

I presume that a number of people will view my words as an act of shooting one's self in the foot. Why would someone who loves New Orleans disparage a couple of business owners who want to invest $3.5M to transform a dormant, prime piece of real estate into an employer of 175 locals?

Good question. Here's my answer:

I want New Orleans to thrive and succeed but without sacrificing it's sense of self. If the only way New Orleans can catch up to the rest of the world is by transforming itself into an adult Disneyland or a modern creolized" version of Anywhere, USA, then I wish you all good luck with that. I'm moving to Charleston.

Too often cities are defined by availability and not originality. I am often baffled when I hear people say: "I love [insert city]. You can go to Panera for breakfast, Five Guy's for lunch, and shop at Anthropology in between."

Manhattan probably boasts all of those above chains (or their equivalents), but millions of people don't fly through La Guardia everyday to patronize them. Instead, tourists flock to New York to spend their money at places like Magnolia Bakery, Casa Mono, and FAO Schwartz. I want visitors to New Orleans to remember our city for experiences such as breakfast at Surrey's, lunch at Parkway Bakery, and shopping along Royal Street.

I both live and work less than 100 feet from the new home of Walk On's and Happy's. If anyone would like to see those businesses succeed, it's me. But I hope that success can be accompanied by quality food that New Orleanians can be proud of.

* I don't think that's how the theme song goes, but I could be wrong.