Go East, Young Man

In this month's issue of OffBeat magazine, we review Dong Phuong: Baker of Bread, Bastion Banh Mi, and Palace of Pork. If traveling to the beach this weekend, the detour down Chef Highway for springrolls and meat-filled pastries will ensure for a pleasant drive all the way to the panhandle. For the rest of us, the journey out East is worthwhile for no other reason than to satisfy a craving.

But beware the banh xeo, the crepe whose deliciousness is only matched by its difficulty in consumption. If the other diners are looking and laughing at you while you eat, then you're probably doing it right.

Classic Combinations

Dong Phuong - A Journey to the Far East (New Orleans)

Get on Chef Menteur Highway and just start driving. Those are the best directions I can give to Dong Phuong, where a wondrous world of Vietnamese goodies awaits those who are willing to make the journey. This place is, in a word, simply amazing. But after my first trip, I decided that there is a bit of strategy involved in order to maximize the benefits of this bakery and restaurant.

First, I suggest cruising the bakery to assess the assortment of Vietnamese pastries. Stuffed with what seems like an endless number of combinations of pork, onion, jicama, and hard boiled eggs, your head will likely start spinning trying to decide. The steamed buns resting in the warmer are delicious as well. But be patient and observe your fellow shoppers. The regulars usually know when a fresh batch of goodies will arrive hot from the oven. And when they do, you will witness a display not unlike the No Reservations segment where Bourdain describes the French waiting in line at the boulangerie as crack addicts looking for a fix.

The coolest aspect of the bakery, in my opinion, is the banh mi station. It's like a freaking Subway for Vietnamese po-boys. Chinese rolled ham, chicken, liver sausage and fresh veggies stuffed inside baguettes pulled right from the oven. If there was a stool, I could have sat there for days.But The Folk Singer and I had already planned on eating in the restaurant, and I am glad that we did. Forgoing my usual bun cha (which I was OK with because TFS ordered it as her meal), I decided on a sticky rice plate of grilled beef, shredded pork, and a fried egg. The pork was strange - served cold and had an almost rubbery texture. I think that it may have been sliced pig ears. Not what I expected, but still tasty. The beef was tender and flavorful as are most Vietnamese chargrilled meats. I ask again: How do they do it?

Just go for it. Make the drive, and you will be handsomely rewarded. Trust me. Rumor has it that Dong Phuong makes a mean kingcake as well. Which reminds me - I almost forgot the best part:

Cream puff to go.