Rising Tide

Tomorrow will be the last football free Saturday until January. (It's about damn time.) Beginning in one week, your Saturday will likely be overtaken by listening to Kirk Herbstreit talk about Ohio State winning the BCS, consuming massive quantities of bourbon from a plastic flask, and deciphering how Les Miles used "want" as both a verb and a noun in the same sentence during his halftime interview with Erin Andrews.

So how do you spend your final Saturday devoid of the pigskin? Why, by attending an intellectually stimulating conference on post-Katrina New Orleans, of course.

Or you could just listen to Todd Price, Chris DeBarr, Adolfo Garcia, Alex Del Castillo, and Rene rant and ramble on for an hour about the current food culture of New Orleans.

You can catch this cast of characters live and in living color at Rising Tide VI, "an annual gathering for all who wish to learn more and do more to assist New Orleans' recovery. It's for everyone who loves New Orleans and is working to bring a better future to all its residents." Blackened Out is honored that we were asked to participate in and contribute to such a noble cause.* For more on the history of Rising Tide, click here.

The event kicks off tonight with a party at Tracey's and then continues tomorrow with a day long of speakers and panel discussions at Xavier's University Center. Tickets are $30 and can be purchased online.

Have a great weekend.

*I will be unable to attend due to an Outlook calendar malfunction.

Drinking Wine is Good For You and For Animals

Normally, Lindsay rolls her eyes when I mention wine tastings that I would like to go. But when I told her about the Pinots on Parade at The Green Goddess tomorrow night, her eyes got really big and she asked, "Can we go, please?"

Now, it has nothing to do with the wines. Lindsay wants to go because part of the purpose of this parade of Pinots is to raise money for Animal Rescue of New Orleans. (The event also raises money for the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation.) As you may have picked up on, the Louapres are dog people. Hounds get most of our attention, but any dogs in need are friends of ours indeed.

So here is the skinny on the 411. Tomorrow night at The Green Goddess (307 Exchange Alley in the French Quarter) from 7-10 pm, guests will taste a large swath of what some have called the finest grape in the world. There will be snacks a plenty and an opportunity to rap with Chef Chris about any number of topics. Also, rumor is Paul Artigues, the day time chef and star on Treme, will be there. The cost is $60 a person and reservations can be had by calling 331.3347 or emailing Chef Chris chef@greengoddessnola.com. I'm looking forward to sampling the Nicholas Portel 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin and the Corton Grand Cru from Maison Champy.

While researching an article in last month's offBEAT Magazine, I learned from Drs. Bazan and Moises that the Pinot Noir grape has the most health benefits of any grape. Because of its thin skin, Pinot Noir will not just grow anywhere (like many grapes will). You see the skin of the grape is where all the "healthy" stuff is, things with scientific names like antioxidants and polyphenols. The skin of a grape protects it from rot, insects, bacteria and other such detriments. The skin of the Pinot grape is very thin. To compensate for this thin skin, the antioxidants and polyphenols in the skin are very effective at doing their job. Whereas in a thick-skinned grape, like Cabernet, the healthy compounds do not have to be as effective to protect the fruit.

What are these health benefits? Well, research by Dr. Bazan has shown that wines made from Pinot Noir can help ward off Alzheimer's, strokes, and other neurological conditions. Also, wine is good for the old tickervasuclar system. Furthermore, studies have shown that people who volunteer and give back to those in need have better health outlooks and are generally happier than those who do not. Don't believe me? Fine. Die young.

In short, if you want to be healthy, drink wine. If you want to be more healthy, drink wine made from the Pinot Noir grape. If you want to be most healthy (like me), go to Pinots on Parade.

The (Not-So) Green Goddess

Allow me to dispel a nasty rumor:

Fact: The chefs at The Green Goddess pay as much attention to vegetables as they do to meat and seafood.
Fiction: The Green Goddess is a vegetarian restaurant.

On multiple occasions I have told people about The Green Goddess only to watch them roll their eyes and say, "Yeah, but, isn't that a vegetarian restaurant?" No, it's not. Trust me - there is enough pork, beef, and fowl on the menu to satisfy even the most voracious carnivore. Back in May we had the chance to sample Chef Chris DeBarr's dinner menu at this funky little spot on Exchange Alley. Then last week Rene and I joined BB Gunner and The Gambler to pay off a Bar Exam wager over Paul Artigues' lunch spread.

This was one of Chef Paul's daily specials - an heirloom tomato stuffed with enough boudin to form a prominent muffin top which is then inverted and given a nice crust on the griddle. Ingenious and delicious.

Here we have the Cuban Luau Sandwich of salame, pulled pork, manchego, banana peppers, and roasted pineapple on pressed ciabatta. They also serve a faux cuban made with collard greens, but I think that I'll stick with my perfect record when it comes to choosing between pork and vegetables.

Where else but in Louisiana would "Bangers & Mash" consist of duck sausage and sweet potatoes sweetened with cane syrup? If that doesn't scream fall, then I don't know what does.

I thought that this was the best dish on the tables, but that's probably because I ordered it. Bacon & Bison Meatloaf Sandwich with (more) bacon, arugula, tomatoes, creole mustard, and garlic aioli. I like mine served warm, but you can have it cold if you'd like.

We also had the house version of crudites, which I love because it includes enough vegetables to offset the guilt I feel from devouring the French duck fat "home fries." Those are not to be missed.

The Green Goddess is a sleeper when it comes to lunch - kind of like Steve Smith in this year's fantasy draft. (No, the other Steve Smith.) Prices are a bit higher than what you might usually pay for lunch, but this minor splurge is worth it for food of this caliber. The space sits only 10 or 12 inside, but when the weather is nice there is no better place to dine than at the outside tables on Exchange Alley.

The Green Goddess - Birdie

Green Goddess

Full Disclosure: Rene assisted Paul and Chris with the opening of Green Goddess. That should satisfy our journalistic integrity doctrine.

No, not the dressing nor the "medicinal" plant. The new restaurant is the brainchild creation of Chef Chris DeBarr, formerly of (most recently) The Delachaise, and Paul Artigues formerly of Surrey's. This new spot is in Exchange Alley across from the Pelican Club in the space which used to be occupied by Jazz Tacos. It's tiny, with just a handful of tables inside and out on the sidewalk. But the flavors coming forth from the open kitchen are monumental. Chris handles the afternoon-dinner shift, while Paul takes the reins for brunch and lunch. The restaurant should be open soon, but for now here is a sneak peek.

We started with Chris' version of crudités. Asparagus wrapped in serrano and then baked, cauliflower two ways, thinly sliced potatoes crisped in duck fat (wow), gridle-slapped radicchio, fresh radishes, and a "tortilla" of potatoes served with roasted garlic aioli and romesco.

Next came the South Indian Savory Lentil Pancake known as utthappam with tamarind chutney and dal relish. The ingredients may have been beyond my repertoire, but the taste and texture were just plain good.

"Spooky" Blue Corn Crepes with huitlacoche (a corn fungus which Rene has had some experience with before), porcini mushrooms, and brandy ragout. This was spectacular, with a meaty taste without cholesterol.

Crispy baked angel hair with jumbo lump crabmeat, fried shallots, and "confit" of lotus root in a green tea vegetable broth. Great dish overall but the lotus root was not for me as I thought the texture is very fibrous.

Bison meatloaf wrapped in bacon, the best twice baked potato I have ever eaten, and an encore appearance by those serrano wrapped asparagus.

Onto the desserts.

"Saturn Calling" - Chris' favorite dish of black rice pudding floating in a mango sauce.

"Il Budino Giandujo" - Italian for chocolate and hazelnut bread pudding.

Finally, the pièce de résistance: strawberry creme brulee with balsalmic sugar. This was flat out amazing.

As I am sure you can tell, these dishes are chock full of flavors and ingredients which until now were absent from the New Orleans dining. The menu also includes off beat juices such as cashew fruit, lychee, and sugarcane juice.

Green Goddess is something different for the Quarter. A restaurant which doesn't feel any impetus to put red beans and rice, trout meuniere, or cafe brulot on its menu. It is a welcome diversion. Check it out.