So Long, Farewell

If you are a regular reader of Blackened Out, you probably are fairly knowledgeable of what's going on in the local restaurant scene. The biggest story in post-K New Orleans dining is not only the reestablishment of nearly all of the restaurants which were open before August 29, 2005, but also the proliferation of new restaurants. Despite a reduction in population, there are approximately 300 more restaurants open today in New Orleans then there were 6 years ago. And it seems like more are opening with every turn of the calendar.

Unfortunately, not all of the post-K restaurants have survived. This fact comes as no surprise to those of us who have a fundamental understanding of how supply correlates with demand. (I knew that Economics undergraduate degree would one day come in handy.) But sometimes we believe that our sense of taste will defy the odds.

On a recent weekend trip through Metairie, I faced the realization that my personal opinion on the quality and value of a restaurant's food does not equate with long term success or viability of a business. As we crossed the 17th Street Canal on our way to Lakeside, The Folk Singer and I had lunch on our minds. Who would have known that our first 3 choices had already closed their doors for good.



Mixed grill from Cyrus Restaurant.

 In our June 2011 Dining Out column in OffBeat Magazine, we predicted that Cyrus Restaurant, located on the former site of the Fun Arcade, would "soon become a destination for pleasures of the culinary variety." It was a bold conjecture. But unlike the guy who bet $1000 that a Giants safety would be the first score in the Super Bowl, our long shot did not come through. Despite serving delicious grilled meats and Middle Eastern dips far better than must gyro joints in town, Cyrus served its last order of lamb chops at the beginning of the year. My best guess as to why they didn't make it: prices were significantly higher than other restaurants in the same genre.

Our second option on this Jefferson Parish lunch excursion was Taco San Miguel, which had once been The Folk Singer's favorite carrot to place at the end of her proverbial stick which led the way to Lakeside Mall. Although we both were huge fans of San Miguel's no frills Mexican cooking, it had been quite some time since we last eaten there, opting instead for the close proximity of Felipe's to our home base. And apparently it had been much longer than we realized, because on this day the tiny building on 20th Street which once housed Taco San Miguel was now near the tail end of a renovation into some unknown eatery. A quick google search reveals that it may have closed sometime in 2010.



 Smokin' Buddha's brisket, pork, and sausage po-boy.

 With nachos now on the brain, we completed are reverse trifecta by making our way over to Smokin' Buddha, where a few weeks earlier we had noshed on a delicious pile of thick and crunchy flour tortilla chips which held up well underneath the weight of queso, sour cream, guacamole, green onion, chopped brisket and an unconventional dusting of parmesan cheese. Smokin' Buddha had garnered much attention from the Twitterverse and Yelpers who had proclaimed it as the only BBQ joint in New Orleans which imparted a true smoke flavor to its meats. I had only been once before, but I can safely say that the burnt ends alone were worth keeping this place open. And obviously, I was wrong about that too. Word on the street is that it may have been ownership and/or management issues which eventually led the Buddha to restaurant purgatory.

And so we ended up at Phil's Grill. You already know how that story ends.

Most everyone agrees that New Orleanians are eating better now then they ever have before. Still, it makes me sad to see a few of the better ones close their doors for good. Pour out a little liquor.

Mall Food

There are few things in life which I loathe more than going to the mall. Circling the parking lot for an open space... avoiding eye contact with Rosetta Stone salesmen... spending money.... Unless you're either a teenage girl or a masochist, then I don't know why you would feel differently. But we all need "stuff" at some point in our lives, and even though I strive fervently to spend my shopping dollars in Orleans Parish, I have found myself at Causeway and Vets on quite a few Saturdays of late.

As an incentive for agreeing to carry her bags around Lakeside, The Folk Singer usually promises me lunch as a reward, and even though I will not hesitate to profess my unequivocal love for cookie cake from Great American Cookie Company - no, I am not joking - the food court at Lakeside just doesn't cut it for me. Thankfully, just across Severn in Fat City, awaits a dizzying array of meats just begging to be rolled into fresh tortillas, topped with salsa, and gobbled down with glee.

The ambience at Taco San Miguel is not what you would expect from an "authentic" taqueria. Beside the Spanish echoing from the TV and stereo, the shiny aluminum high-top tables and chairs outside and drive-thru window might fool you into unconsciously ordering an hamburguesa. That might not be a bad choice, but allow me to offer a few suggestions for those of you looking for something a little different.

Nachos San Miguel (above) are phenomenal. What sets these apart are the two types and textures of cheese - both melted Chihuahua cheese and tiny crumbles of queso fresco. The queso flameado is served in a cast iron pan bubbling with cheese and either chorizo (too greasy) or pico de gallo (much better).

For those penny pinchers, Taco San Miguel offers free chips and salsa bar, where a quartet of salsas are lined up like colors of the rainbow. For my tastes, the "Hot" version is overwhelming with the flavor of roasted tomatoes. The medium verde is my favorite, but the two mild versions (chipotle and basic red chili) are also welcome at my table. The bar also includes fresh jalapenos, lime wedges, cilantro and chopped onions for topping your...

Sopes? This corn pita topped with your choice of meat, lettuce, tomato, queso fresco, sour cream, and guacamole is a steal at $2.50. Think of it as an inside-out pupusa. For those longing for homemade tortillas, the Tres Tacos plate comes with 3 tacos + black beans and rice. You get your option of corn or flour tortillas and lettuce/tomato or cilantro/onions.

But what's most impressive about Taco San Miguel is the extensive list of meat choices, a/k/a "carne al gusto." Choose from shreds of slow cooked barbacoa, flabby and flavorful chicharrones, or fruity slices of cactus. The tripe was entirely too chewy, but the lengua (tongue) was spot on. Grilled chicken, pork, and beef are available with a combination of marinades and sauces.

Viva el Ciudad Gordo!

State of the Eating: Mexican in New Orleans, Part I

Recently this blog solicited your comments. We wanted to know where you could get authentic Mexican in this city. You obliged, and we have eaten. So here now is a review of Mexican eateries around the 504. This list is by no means exhaustive, just a few spots I have been able to sample so far.

This taco outpost holds the richness of the earth in a converted truck. I love this place. There are few frills, no 21 year old wanna-be-celebutante wearing a big sombrero and sucking down sugary margaritas as she talks to some guy in an Ed Hardy shirt while updating her facebook status on her iPhone. There is no sign stating that McSuperiors put the Fun in queso FUNdido. You cant order fried ice cream. It is just tacos and tortas done perfectly, some Mexican sodas, and a view of one of New Orleans best streets. The only embellishment is two sauces. A green one and a red one. Try them both, srat star.

The tripe tacos are just amazing. I could try to describe them to you but sometimes only Shakespeare's words will suffice: "Tripe tacos you complete me!"

You can choose from steak, a succulent stewed beef, chicken, carnitas, grilled pork, and I am sure many more. The food's quality is not matched by its prices. A plate of 3 tacos will set you back about $5. Take that Taco Bell. The tortas are not bad either. Grilled fluffy bread are stuffed with your choice of meat, dressed, and slathered with some melted cheese. Its enough to make your roast beef po-boy jealous.

Less good was El Rinconcito and Fiesta Latina. The former is really a cantina which it seems is Mexican for bar food. The salsa was good and the pollo frito delivered a bird more closely aligned with confit than with fried food. The loud Central American Pop Tunes didn't make things much better and everyone drinks Bud Light, not that there is anything wrong with that. Fiesta Latina seemed to be the Sysco of the Mexican food scene. Boring food with bright yellow government cheese covering or stuffed in most dishes.

Now Taco San Miguel in Fat City, that place is solid. Delicious tongue tacos, a multi-hued salsa bar, and some very honest cooking. I also loved the chicharonnes with their snappy texture and creamy interior these pork skins were a welcome addition to any of the offerings.

Another place we have enjoyed so far is Le Guadelepeno on Broad near Criminal Court. The only hiccup was the cold chicken enchiladas. But then again it was 10:30 in the morning on a Sunday. I am sure the cooks were still thinking breakfast.

The tacos were well made. The tortillas at Le Guadelepeno were exceptionally tender, but still retained a solid structure. But the papusas were phenomenal. Little pockets of soft corn dough stuffed with pork and cheese, griddled and sent out with a fiery sauce and some pickled cabbage. We got them as our apps, I wish it would have been my main.

The search still continues, but so far the State of Mexican Food in New Orleans is strong. Where else do I need to go?