Short Order Reviews

We're starting off the shortened 4 day work week with a quick list of Short Order Reviews which revisit a few places which have fallen off our radar as of late.

Grand Isle - After hearing about all of the charcuterie that Chef Mark Falgoust is curing in house (but refraining to partake of those specialties on a Friday during Lent), we decided to bring The Folk Singer's parents here on a Sunday night so that they could eat fried seafood and I could indulge in pork. Gargantuan fried oysters filled a few po-boys around the table, but I focused my attention on the ham and white cheddar melt placed in front of me. Mother's may claim to have the world's best baked ham, but this may be the real deal Holyfield. Each thin slice of ham is surrounded by a crunchy, sweetened, black crust, stacked high and covered in melted white cheddar and caramelized onions on a brioche bun. The sandwich, while expensive at $13, was executed flawlessly. Terrible french fries though. - Par/Birdie.

Courtyard Grill - With 5 tables filled in the front courtyard a few weeks ago, this is the most crowded that I have seen this quiet Magazine eatery. The shaded deck is a nice setting on a day when the mercury stays below 85, but those days are probably behind us. Hummus was standard but good; the house baked bread is a vast improvement over the standard pita served elsewhere. TFS had the Yogurt Chicken Kabob, which was off-putting texturally with its soggy bread buried beneath chunks of grilled chicken covered in yogurt and the house specialty tomato butter sauce. I fared better with the spicy Lamb Adana wrap in crispy lavash. Lebanese tea was syrupy sweet in a non-refreshing way. I don't know how this place stays open, but it is still a great option for a cheap lunch. - Par.

Poke Salad at Kyoto.

Kyoto - A 20 minute wait lets you know that this is one of the few Uptown restaurants open for dinner on Monday nights. We started with the Poke Salad, which was the best execution that I have had here in a long time. An almagamation of seaweed, squid, avocado, thin half moons of cucumber and chunks of tuna mixed with a sweet and hot chili dressing, the salad has so much going on yet comes together so well. This night once again confirmed my belief that the Sara Roll, filled with spicy shrimp and avocado and then topped with a crunchy/spicy sriracha crown, is my favorite roll in town. The Dynamite Roll was disappointing with only tuna and no salmon, and while the fish was served at the right temp, the rice was much too cold. At $35 inclusive for 3 rolls and a Poke Salad, this was a surprisingly cheap dinner date, but of course neither of us were drinking. - Par/Birdie.

Courtyard Grill

The hummus and chicken shawarma craze may be long past its crest, but many New Orleanians still go gaga over grape leaves and gyros. Even though I include myself in that crowd, on my jaunt through Europe a few years back I developed an even stronger affinity for the gyro's Turkish cousin: the kebab. No matter where I traveled, the omnipresent Doner kebab always seemed to be there.

While most of the kebab shops I frequented in Europe were of the street food genre, the kebabs from Courtyard Grill are touted as members of a higher pedigree, though still sold at bargain prices. Boasting of organic meats, house baked bread, and hand stacked rotisserrie towers, though the menu at Courtyard Grill reads similar to the vast array of Middle Eastern restaurants around town, the kitchen does things a little differently.

All meals at the Courtyard Grill begin with a complimentary basket of the house baked bread and a small tasting of agili, a condiment with which I had no prior experience. Though advertised as "spicy" on the menu and a veritable doppleganger for fiery harissa, the agili is actually a mild, almost fruity mixture of diced tomato, bell pepper, garlic, herbs, and olive oil. Matched with the house baked bread that is akin to a taller, more airy pizza crust, it's a simple but interesting introduction to a meal. If dining with a crowd, the appetizer platter is the way to start – your choice of 4 of the cold dishes to share for $15.95. What comes forth is ample portions of creamy/chunky babaganush, mild chachik yogurt sauce, large blocks of feta and walnuts, meat stuffed grape leaves, and whichever else you choose.

Sandwiches are either wrapped in thin lavash or in conventional form on the house baked bread. The Adana Wrap is a spicy blend of ground beef and lamb with loads of red pepper, almost like a merguez, served with marinated onions, purple cabbage slaw, chachik, and steamed rice for $9. The Doner (pictured) is served on the house baked bread with all of the above accompaniments, save the rice, for a whopping $8.

Platters are substantial and can easily split between two people who share an appetizer. The Doner Durum is an interesting twist on the classic. The thin, crispy slices of lamb and beef are rolled pinwheel-style in a thin tortilla like dough, cut, placed upright and ladled over with a mild tomato butter sauce. I expected more spice and assertiveness from the sauce, but the dish still worked well.

The "courtyard" aspect is a side deck with an overhang that is a nice setting for dining outdoors. Newcomers are usually confused where to go upon arrival, which is understandable. The door closest to the street leads directly into the kitchen and is used for takeout service and for the waitresses to expedite orders for those dining in. The door set further back leads to the hostess stand and interior dining room. The restaurant recently secured its liquor license, so now you can enjoy a cold beer or glass of wine with your kebab.

Courtyard Grill - Birdie
4430 Magazine Street
(504) 875-4164
Lunch and Dinner Wed-Sun; Closed Tuesday