Date Night: Fat City Edition

Jay-Z and Alicia Keys said it best, Fat City is "the concrete jungle where dreams are made of." Fat City may have gotten a regulatory scrubbing in the form of Cynthia Lee Sheng's ordinances, but it still has an certain je nais se quoi. The intriguing thing about Fat City, and I am being serious here, is you can see an idea that just didn't pan out like its developers thought. The hordes from Bourbon Street never materialized, the swanky hotels didn't follow, and now it sits like a time capsule that has been opened before it is time.

Luckily, Fat City is a time capsule filled with some of the best ethnic eats in the city. The idea of the Fat City Marathon has percolated in the craw for a few years now. With such an abundance of good food in the area and us traveling out there so infrequently, it only made sense to one time eat multiple meals in the same trip. Hence the Fat City Marathon, which we unknowingly accomplished last Saturday night.

We brought along some friends with us and I began dropping subtle hints in the car. "We really need to come out here one time and eat at Kanno and Korea House."

Cue Laughter.

First stop was Kanno. Where we shared thin ribbons of salmon, their white streaks of fat melting on the tongue rapidly. Bowls of the soft shell miso ("Japanese Gumbo") with its spicy stock killed time before crispy and juicy gyoza. Then nigiri sushi topped with grapefruit red colored orbs of tuna, lightly seared albacore, and giant clam. A plate of squid grilled and served with asparagus and portabello mushrooms could stand in for red meat any Friday in Lent. Bottles of Sapporo consumed, I pressed again, "Hey anyone want to go to Korea House for a nightcap?"

Cue nervous laughter.

Out came the Kanno chocolates and a discussion on mochi ensued. We paid the bill and leaving Kanno the dim lights of Korea House beckoned like the daughters of Achelus. By now the die was cast; we were 13.1 miles into a marathon, no point in stopping now. 

Bottles of Hite and Soju arrived first. Platters of condiments, kimchi, fermented black beans, and potatoes next. Then a glowing cauldron of rice, vegetables, and egg. A healthy dose of gochujang and rapid stirring sent the bibimibap sizzling. Marinated and grilled short ribs, their exteriors crusty, nestled in cups of lettuce with white rice and kimchi was the perfect finishing sprint.

Marathon complete, I couldn't tempt them into a triathlon. "Hey how about dessert, I think Sucre is still open?"

Cue shouting.

Korea House

Are you one of those people who measures the value of a meal by the number of plates on the table? Do you sometimes find yourself longing to visit the foodie and cultural wonderland that is Fat City? When you sleep, do you dream of pickled vegetables instead of sugar plum fairies?

If you have answered (or thought about answering) "yes" to one of the above questions, then Korea House should most definitely be on your radar. Just remember that if you are craving pork belly, the minimum order is for 2 people, so you must also have a willing companion in tow. Or be bold and tell the waitress that you will be sharing the pork belly with yourself, and thus she need not bring a sharing plate nor an extra set of chopsticks.

Fat City gets a bad rap, but it may just have one of the best collections of ethnic and different restaurants in a 4 block stretch. There is Drago's, Korea House, the beloved Kanno, Taco San Miguel, a few Italian joints, and of course Crazy Johnny's.

The decor at Korea House has a touch of thrift shop elegance, and the food is at times remarkable. Like the spicy beef soup - the perfect cure for a cold with its rust colored and vegetable chunked broth, this is not a tame soup. There is a little hibachi grill set up in the middle of the table, but in order to use it you have to have two or more people. So grab some friends and order the pork and beef. Thin slices of both arrive awash in a zesty marinade. You grill, fold into lettuce leaves, top with Kimchi, devour, and wash it down with a cold Hite. Lather, rinse, and repeat.

So what is your favorite Fat City Haunt? And please, The Other Bar closed years ago.

For Lunch Today...

Tried to go to Korea House yesterday. However, I soon learned Korea House does not open on Wednesday's. Pho Tau Bay is closed on Thursdays. Why is it that Asian restaurants are closed on random days and open at all other times. Like this one time on Christmas the dogs ate the Turkey and the only restaurant open in town was an Asian spot. So we went there and sang Cantonese Christmas Carols.

For lunch today, Korea House (since I was denied yesterday). Go with a bunch of people from work, the neighborhood, your Atari Club. Order a bunch of food, or better yet let them bring you food. Definitely get the Korean Bar B Q pork and the spicy beef soup. Wash it down with some Hite beer.

Korea House

Fat City gets a lot of laughs. The hubris of the 1960-70's Jefferson Parish council of believing it would become the new French Quarter beget a largely unpopulated derelict space in the 90s. However if one really thinks about it, there are some great spots down there to eat. Drago's of course, but not too far from Drago's is a spot that captured my heart: Korea House.

I did go to Doson's for lunch but my that only increased my desire for ethnic food. However at dinner the heat of ethnic food drew me like a moth to a flame. While walking the hounds, Asparagus and Penelope, we ran into Lady's boss who promised us Korea House was not to be missed. But she warned us, "the inside is nothing great."

I have a theory, well a lot of them, but this one is this: a certain amount of hodge-podge, accumulation of crap is indicative of a good meal. Beach side restaurant/shacks in the Caribbean always have a certain level of flotsam and jetsam which gives the place authenticity and character. Korea House has character, and of that a lot.

Our waitress who is also probably the owner steered us into ordering the following: Dumplings, Spicy Beef Soup (#37), the Squid (#9), short ribs(#18), and the pork (#19). Damn was it good.

All the food arrived at once. The dumplings were dumplings but very good to nibble on while the center of the table brazier heated up. At the center of our table a hole was filled with charcoal. On top of the charcoal a grate was placed. On top of the grate, meat was placed. Any questions, please ask the nearest Cave Man.

The soup had an huge beef broth which carried the flavors of tomato, spice, egg, scallions to a well-rounded finish. And enormous that portion. The squid, although a bit chewy, brought the spiciness we craved. But the real star of the evening was the beef short ribs and the pork.

The short ribs are sliced super thin, to allow their tenderness to show through following such a short cooking time. You remove the meat from the bone, place it inside a piece of lettuce, top it with rice and your choice of the condiments. My favorite was the bean paste, radish, and kim-chi (a preservation technique for things like cabbage and other vegetables). Roll it up and enjoy. This technique is also the way to eat the pork. Both are good, both satisfy whatever culinary urge you have.

I realize advocating for Korea House is nothing new. I am not trying to be Walter Cronkite here. But GOD DAMN is it delicious. As far as ethnic food goes, it blew me away. I suspect it will have the same effect on you.

Birdie