In Search of Monday Lunch: Café Minh

Café Minh was one of the first reviews we wrote for OffBeat Magazine; and while the food is much the same now as it was back then, I'd say that our collective opinion on the restaurant has changed over time. It's tough to categorize and/or compare Café Minh with the more traditional Vietnamese restaurants, which our palettes have begun to favor. So Café Minh might not be our first choice to satisfy a hardcore craving for pho or chargrilled pork, but it's Vietnamese/French fusion cuisine still has a place in our stomachs. And it's open for lunch on Monday.

There is no better way to begin the meal than with a combination plate of Summer Rolls and Beggar's Purse. Cool and crisp rolls of shrimp, vegetables and avocado on one side; hand-formed pork and shrimp steamed dumplings on the other.

Main courses look and sound familiar, but there is usually an unexpected twist. The chargrilled pork sandwich adds green leaf lettuce, mayo, and balsamic vinaigrette to the traditional banh mi. Pho includes well-done brisket and meatballs but leaves out the tendon and ruby red slices of beef which barely cook through in the steaming broth. Cold salads of vermicelli noodles are spruced up with mixed greens, paneed chicken breast, and a nuoc mam based dressing.

No curry goat, deep fried quail, or grilled pork pate. Just a unique restaurant serving Vietnamese classics in unfamiliar ways.

Café Minh

The last time I visited Café Minh was during the summer for offBeat, so it was a long time a comin' when The Folk Singer and I stopped by for lunch last Saturday afternoon. We started with an order of Summer Rolls (foreground) bulging with shrimp, cucumber, and avocado. In the background are the handmade pork dumplings known as "Beggar's Purse."

The Folk Singer had the tempura chicken salad, but I would say that the chicken was more paneéd than tempura fried. Either way, there were two whole chicken breasts atop the salad, which consisted of mixed greens, cold vermicelli noodles, and julienned vegetables with a peanut sauce dressing. Cool, filling, and a steal at $12.

I had the chargrilled pork sandwich which (as you can see) was overflowing with delectable porcine goodness. "Sandwich" is an apt description as this is not the typical banh mi. The shredded carrot and cucumber are in there, but so are lettuce, tomato, and the tiniest drizzle of balsamic vinegar. With the accompanying side of cole slaw or fries, this lunch costs the grand total of $9.

Café Minh is an absolute steal of a deal. High quality raw ingredients and preparations executed consistently well in a clean and minimalist dining room at affordable prices. Weekday lunches are busy, but the Saturday afternoon crowd has yet to find their way to Canal Street. That's fine. More for me and you.

Café Minh - Eagle