Small Plates

Call it whatever you want - tapas, dim sum, or a "mini" tasting menu - but small plates have become most everyone's favorite way to dine. The concept has been around for some time but under the elusive label of "appetizers." While many restaurants are employing this form, not all execute the idea particularly well.

Cochon Butcher does. In fact, the bar food menu at the Swine Bar might even be better than the one offered by its big brother next door, but that's a debate for another time. Unquestionably, the prices at Butcher are cheaper - nearly every plate has a $6 price tag. The most popular item may be the bacon and onion pizzetta with a creamy base of (I think) boursin cheese.

Hummus goes coonass with the substitution of blackeyed peas for chickpeas. The result is a much thicker puree than the traditional, but no less tasty. The spread is served hot, which allows the pool of olive oil on top to give off a nice aroma. Crostini provide a nice crunch as the vehicle for delivery.

The small plate menu typically includes 4 or 5 daily specials, one of which is usually a twist on macaroni and cheese. The specimen above was studded with bits of ham, but a truffle version is sometimes available. Not pictured but worth ordering is the venison sausage sliced atop a steaming pile of choucroute.

Truthfully, it's tough to go wrong no matter what you order.

Fish Fridays - Master Shucker

For 36 years these hands have held the keys to our local waters' greatest treasure. The journey began in 1974, when Michael "Hollywood" Broadway strolled past the Desire Oyster Bar on his way home from his shift as a dishwasher at the Court of Two Sisters. "I peeked inside Desire and saw the shuckers joking and talking to the customers. It looked like fun." But after taking a job as a busboy at Desire, the current shuckers were not so keen on mentoring a protege. "I asked the guy to teach me, but he told me that I would have to pay him. So I taught myself, and then after a few weeks I took his job."

After breaking into the trade at Desire, Hollywood moved to the Hilton Hotel where in 1978 he shucked oysters for Muhammed Ali just a few weeks before he went down to Leon Spinks. A few years later he moved to the Acme Oyster House on Iberville, where he has been a fixture behind the bar for the past 28 years.

His technique for shucking is characterized by more finesse than brute force. After grabbing an air-tight oyster - which ensures both freshness and a reservoir of salty liquor inside - his knife enters the hinge while the weight of his body presses down on top of the shell. "You pry, not push," are his words of wisdom. While rocking his knife back and forth, he scrapes the oyster from it's shell, allows the excess liquor to wash away any of the residual dirt inside, and swipes it clean with the blade before placing it high side out on the tray. He can shuck a dozen oysters in just over 60 seconds.

Hollywood has passed down his tried and true technique to a countless number of oyster shuckers. First, to his co-workers at Desire - including a gentleman named Gus, who has been behind the bar at Desire for 34 years - and now to a whole new generation at Acme via his post as Personal Trainer. He was named to Gourmet's 50 Best Chefs and serves as a member of the Louisiana Oyster Task Force.

True to his profession, Hollywood loves oysters but only eats them raw with just a squeeze of lemon and a touch of Tabasco. He lets his hands do the cooking.

The 3 Food Groups: Pizza, Sausage & Beer

After a year of dining out with very few repeats, I have not exactly broadened my culinary horizons thus far in 2010. One of the reasons why: Crescent Pie & Sausage Company. The Folk Singer and I were there on opening night in November and have been back three times since. Everything is made in house, the prices are affordable, and the atmosphere is laid back. What's not to love? For more on Jesuit High School's newest neighbor, check out our review in this month's issue of OffBeat Magazine.

Here are a few photos of my favorite dishes on the menu:

Meat pies. The crust on these babies is rich and flaky. Stuffings rotate on a daily basis and vary from crawfish to broccoli and cheese to eggplant parmesan. All are good, but the combination of duck confit, ricotta, and sauteed leeks is best.

The pies combine Jeff Baron's hand-tossed crust (thin, but more substantial than "cracker-like") with a wide arrange of ingredients. Interestingly, none of the pizzas use a traditional tomato sauce. The Chicken Marsala (pictured above) has a slightly sweetened taste, while the Mediterranean starts with a roasted red pepper sauce as a base.

Sausages run the gamut from bratwurst (above) to merguez made with lamb, as well as daily selections.

The Redneck Brisket Sandwich is not to be missed. Sliced thick and piled high, the "burnt ends" are coated with finger-licking good BBQ sauce. The accompanying side of thinly sliced dill chips are light and crisp.

Crescent Pie & Sausage Co. - Tap in Birdie fastly approaching Eagle territory

Lilette

John Harris has once again been nominated for a James Beard Award, and the food coming out of his kitchen deserves all the accolades, Grammys, and honors one can bestow. The service, however, needs a serious kick in the ass.

The interior of Lilette presents one of the most charming restaurants in New Orleans. Big, plate glass windows surround cozy white booths and intimate tables. There is a bar along the back wall which looks right out of an ad for the finer things in life.

Upon sitting we ordered a bottle of Rene Barth 2007 Pinot Gris, a wonderful easy drinking white with a touch of sweetness. We also tried to order a half-dozen Kumamoto oysters to nibble on as we perused the menu. "No, sorry. You have to order everything... all food at once," was the answer we received. ("What about dessert?" was the smart ass remark I withheld).

Eventually we were allowed to order the oysters. And when they arrived, they were worth their wait in scold. These tiny, jewels of the ocean exploded with minerality and the taste of the icy seas.

Choosing from the menu at Lilette will prove daunting. Do you go with the duck confit or escargots in Calvados cream? The truffle toast or the raw fish? The pork belly or the bouillabaisse? My best answer for you is to go with a group and try everything.

We started with the boudin noir and chicken soup. The boudin noir arrived wrapped in a crisp shell, while inside the pudding-like meat exploded with flavor. Lindsay stole most of the cornichons, but they along with the mustard provided a wonderful balance to the richness of the sausage.

Lindsay's chicken soup went in an entirely different direction. The broth had the lusty body of a supermodel. Under the surface of the soup floated a delicately poached egg, the yolk of which burst from the whites to mingle and thicken the soup. Just a delicious, soulful bite of food, and an intelligent take on chicken noodle soup.

"Could you please leave the wine out, it is getting a little cold," I asked nicely.

"Why? There is barely anything left," the waiter dismissed.

Ok, then.

Onto the mains. Lindsay was very pleased with the Hawaiian spearfish with braised escarole and sunchoke puree. But no bite of food, I have had in the last twelve months compared with the pork belly dish. Tender, salted cubes of pork belly nestled alongside bright, juicy cubes of melon, slivers of onion, mint, and baby arugula. If you go to Lilette, this dish needs to be ordered.

Complaining about service is not something I like to do, and the two above passages may not seem like much (and in the grand scheme of things are not). But snooty service really chaps my ass. I don't snap fingers, yell at waiters, or tip poorly. I am not asking for you to address me as sir. I appreciate how hard you work. So please quit acting like you are doing me a favor, or else I can and will take my business elsewhere.

Can you tell I should let it go?

Lilette - So close to Eagle, but Birdie.

Hogs for the Cause

Hogs for the Cause, the number one porcine related charity event held at the Fly, returns this Saturday, March 6th from sun up to sun down. With over 25 teams competing for your dollars in the Louisiana High on the Hog Pork Cook Off, the competition will be fiercer than you can shake three sticks at. Judging will take place from 2 to 4 p.m. but feel free to come out whenever you want as we will have beer, oysters, pork, music, and silent auction items ready for your perusal.

As you may already know, last year's recipient and the inspiration behind this Cause, Ben Sarrat, Jr., lost his battle with cancer last Thursday. There are no words to express how close Becker and I had grown to Ben and his family. His outlook on life - always positive, smiling, and most of all full of jokes - motivates us to make this year's Hogs for the Cause bigger and better.

To this aim, Hogs has established a cancer research fund, whereby all monies raised will be directed to childhood cancer research. Specifically, we want to help fund the cure for Diffuse Intrinsic Pontine Gilioma (DIPG). And what is DIPG? The worst disease imaginable. Most cases are present in small children, and the survival rate is nearly zero. What we do know is that funding for DIPG research is at an all time low, and that is where you come in.

We have been blown away by the support and generosity from our patrons in New Orleans. Donations, raffle items, free equipment and supplies have poured in from across the metropolitan area. Many of us in New Orleans have spent the last half-decade helping each other out. Be it a spare generator or a few extra MREs, we take good care of those in need. We have learned compassion, and that is a wonderful thing.

Now we need you to come out and show your support on what will be a beautiful spring day. We want you to accidentally get sunburned, drink some NOLA Brown, bet on some raffle items, take a plunge on a weekend getaway to Point Clear, and just enjoy the day. There is no charge for admission because we want you to give whatever you feel comfortable with giving. The cook off teams, however, will be vying for your support as monies you donate to each team will help go to towards their point total.

We look forward to seeing you out there.

Together we can do something great.

Working Lunch

After starting 2010 off with two full months' worth of distractions, it's by time we unpause the daily grind and start playing catch up.* When time is of the essence (as it almost always is no matter what your occupation) the lunch hour can quickly dwindle down to just a few minutes. No matter how we try to justify it, salted cashews and a sleeve of Thin Mints - bless you, Girl Scouts - do not fall in the category of "brain food."

So what do you do when running out for a quick bite is not an option? Why, delivery of course. Unfortunately, the number of restaurants who deliver in the CBD are few and far between. In my office, our #1 choice is Back to the Garden. Located in the basement of a triangular building at the intersection of Baronne, Howard, and St. Joseph, this no frills lunch spot employs an army of cyclists ready to deliver your order, usually within 30 minutes.

The menu leans to the healthful side - all-natural fruit smoothies, turkey burgers, and numerous vegetarian options - but there is also a full list of deli-style sandwiches. But my order never changes. The stuffed avocado salad: half an avocado stuffed with chicken salad (tuna, egg, and shrimp or also available) atop green lettuce, alfalfa sprouts, tomato and shredded carrots, with a sprinklin of sunflower seeds. I highly recommend the house dressing of oil, lemon juice, and tamari, which is naturally brewed soy sauce made primarily from soy beans. Different and good. If the spinach and tomato soup is available, order it.

Back to the grind.

*Don't worry though, there are plenty of opportunities to blow off some steam after work, and French Quarter Fest will be here before you know it. For a full list of events, check out the "Blackened Out on the Town" calendar to your left.

Fish Fridays - Scallops

Let's keep the pressure on the mollusks. But this week, let's talk scallops. No sure, scallops aren't really from around these parts, but that doesn't mean some restaurants in New Orleans can't use them.

One of the number one thing we get asked is how can you cook scallops at home. The easy answer is you cant. This is because restaurants that serve the scallops you want to emulate are using day boat scallops or diver scallops. Day boat scallops are those which are usually harvested on boats which return to shore each night. The scallops are then rushed off to fish markets around the world. The scallops you are likely buying from the grocery store come from scallop factory boats. These boats dip the scallops in a chemical substance to keep them fresh and milky white for transport. That chemical inhibits caramelizing, and so you tend to overcook your scallops waiting on the color.

So either leave it to the pros or go diving in cold, Atlantic waters. But if you want good scallops in New Orleans, might we suggest the following:

Iris - Hands down, the meatiest, sweetest scallops in the city. The scallops arrive looking like albino filet mignons. Usually, Chef Ian swabs them down with a crisp, grapefruit butter.

Gautreau's - Peter and I have a huge crush on Sue Zemanick's refined take on motherly cuisine. Something about the way she creates such a crisp crust on her scallops makes us feel warm and safe. Then when she serves it with a bacon and corn relish, it is enough to make us want to take her on a date. But we are too nervous.

MiLa - We have talked before about the lunch menu at MiLa before, and on that prix fixe, occasionally, is a puree of squash or pumpkin with a petite dice of scallop that heightens the sweetness of scallops to a whole 'nother level. If you go for lunch (and you should), and this soup is on the menu, get it.

Where are your favorite places to enjoy the scallop?

Oysters at the Bar

Unbeknownst to most locals, La Cote Brasserie has perhaps the best happy hour in the city. Everyday from 5:00 to 7:00, the bar at La Cote serves raw oysters for only $7/dozen.

"But, Peter, we need something to wash down those oysters with." Thankfully, the powers at be are one step ahead of you, folks. How do $2 Abitas sound? I thought so. And this happy hour price covers the entire spectrum of Abita beers, from Amber to Golden to... (drum roll please)... Strawberry Harvest Lager, which was just released on Monday.

But as JC said, "Man shall not live by raw shellfish alone." La Cote also offers an abbreviated bar menu which include housemade pate and alligator beignets (pictured above).

So the next time you are looking for a place to have a few drinks before the Hornets game, or when Lucy's is so crowded that you can't even get a drink, head on over to the bar at La Cote. It's one of the most underutilized bars in the Warehouse District; but with prices like that, locals should take note.

Winesday

Restaurants operate on razor thin margins. The costs of a restaurant include, just as an illustrative list: rent, labor, insurance, supplies, food, inventory, china, glassware, equipment, telephone lines, websites, marketing personnel, and one of those open/close signs. These costs are not reflected in your food, really, but in the price you pay for booze. Restaurants have to do this, otherwise your scallop entree would be closer to $65 a plate instead of $25.

OK, so in general if a restaurant can buy a bottle of wine for $12 from their wholesaler, it will list the bottle on their wine list for between $36-$48. You can buy this wine at your local wine store for $18. The markup does not seem justified. And maybe it is not.

But that got the old noggin going. Living in New Orleans, roughly 40% of the property is not assessed taxes. That means if 100 dollars in property tax is needed, that amount will attach itself to only 60% of the property. Therefore, as a property owner in New Orleans who is neither a church nor governmental agency, I pay more than my fair share of the taxes.

When I go to eat, 9 times out of 1o we order booze. This means that I, and likely you, are paying for more of the restaurants overhead than a couple that drinks iced tea or worse water. So how do we fix this?

Well, there are two proposals. First, raise food prices and lower wine prices. That won't happen, so on to number two. What if 40 or so restaurants in town decided to cut their wine prices in half for one night only (you can exclude bottles over say $200, as we call those "The Papal Selections"). And not on some night like Tuesday, when people do not dine out. But on a marquee Friday or Saturday night. Wine, if you choose to drink it at a restaurant, should not be an indulgence or cost shifting burden.

Then, take a look at the numbers. My guess is that people who don't normally order wine would, and those that do would order more. Listen, economists I ain't, but even making 200% profit on wine and alcohol sales is doing pretty good. And if you sell two bottles of wine rather than one, you have made the same revenue over your cost. But the diner is happier, your inventory is moving, and likely your staff gets a bigger tip.

This article is fraught with missteps and assumptions, granted. But what are your thoughts?

Steak and....Peas?

We are reducing our carb footprint at the Louapre house, so I've been jonesing for some thin crispy fries or a po-boy or some pasta with olive oil and garlic. Because of the intense love between a baked potato and steak, I was thus craving a steak. As an answer to my prayers, Lindsay brought home some salmon (for her) and a thick dry aged rib eye (for me).

Some lemony peas with pine nuts was the perfect side to both mains. The sweetness of the peas and acidity of the dressing cut through the fattiness of both the salmon and the rib eye. Which just proves we can all get along with the right introductions.

To cook the salmon, I heated some soy, rice wine vinegar, garlic, scallions (some ginger would have been dynamite as well), chili paste and lemon juice over low heat until it had evaporated by half. The resulting mixture was then strained and yielded a few tablespoons of soy syrup. The salmon went into a 500 degree oven, skin side down on a baking dish with just a little salt. After 10 minutes, remove salmon, and paint the the soy syrup over top of salmon and return to the oven for another five minutes. Remove from oven and place foil over the fish and allow it to rest for 15 minutes.

For the steak, let it sit out at room temperature for about thirty minutes with a good sprinkling of Kosher salt and pepper rubbed into it. Then get your cast iron pan hotter than a two dollar pistol. Add to the pan a knob of butter the size of a golf ball. Add steak to pan. Do not touch steak for at least 3 minutes. Meanwhile use a spoon and continually baste the top of the steak with the rapidly browning butter. You can even throw say a few thyme sprigs in there. They will cackle, hiss, and spit when the hit the butter. I highly recommend you do this.

After three minutes flip the steak and continue basting. Lather, rinse and repeat two more times (so flip steak total of four times, cook for 12). Then remove from pan and let rest, under foil for at least 6 minutes.

For the peas, blanch fresh peas (or frozen) in heavily salted water. When done (taste a raw pea, taste them after 2 minutes, you will know when they are done), shock the peas in an ice water bath. While the peas cool, combine a teaspoon of salt and black pepper with the juice of half a lemon. Into this mixture whisk about 1/4 cup of olive oil. I added some fresh parsley cause I had it, but if you had mint that would be better. Then add drained peas to the dressing and allow to sit for a bit.

Toast pine nuts in a frying pan over low heat. Toss the nuts into the peas, spoon on a plate and shave some fresh Parmigianno Reggiano on top.

This meal inspired by all the wonderful steaks eaten during the Farewell to Meat Series. Thanks to everyone who contributed.

By Da Track

When someone asks, "You wanna go to Liuzza's for lunch?", I always answer that question with a question of my own: "On Bienville or By the Track?" No matter what the response though, I usually say yes.

Liuzza's By the Track is best known for four specialties: Gumbo, BBQ Shrimp Po-Boy, Garlic Oyster Po-Boy, and the Breathtaking Beef. On a recent lunch with Rene and Big Brutal Dave, we ordered all of the above.

1. Gumbo - With a foundation handed down from owner Billy Gruber's mother, plus a few influences from Paul Prudhomme, this creole version includes oysters, shrimp, chicken, and andouille (but not okra). For an interesting read on the history and method behind this gumbo, check out this interview of Mr. Gruber by Amy Evans of the Southern Foodway Alliance.
2. BBQ Shrimp Po-Boy - Hands down the best dish on the table. A hollowed-out pistolette is overflowing with shrimp swimming in a sauce comprised of "all the butter in the world and half the black pepper."
3. Garlic Oyster Po-Boy - The crunchy fried oysters slathered in garlic butter were tasty but few in number.
4. Breathtaking Beef - Dry roast beef and horseradish mayo which lacked a potent punch made for a disappointing bogey.

If the specials board advertises fried eggplant, these light and crisp batons dusted with powdered sugar are an excellent way to start a meal. The cramped tables and no frills service are indicative of the dive bar ambience, as is the cadre of regulars usually perched at the bar. If the ponies are running (like they will be today), it's best to place the daily double before the lunch rush and then check the tote board on your way back to work.

Liuzza's By the Track - Par

Fish Fridays - Sushi Survey

A while back, Rene and I had lunch with a fellow food writer visiting from NYC. While discussing the various cuisines of New Orleans, The Big Apple remarked: "I usually steer away from sushi when I am down here. I would rather spend my time eating things like oysters and softshell crabs in New Orleans, and save the fresh salmon and tuna for when I visit the Northwest."

I understand that when people visit New Orleans, they are looking for oysters rockefeller, barbeque shrimp, and other dishes which our city is well known for. I'll admit that when I have visitors, I take them to eat po-boys and gumbo as opposed to burritos and burgers. But to dismiss an entire genre of food based on regional stereotypes would amount to missing out on a lot of good eats.

I love sushi and firmly believe that New Orleans has quite a few sushi bars worth dining in during Lent. When I'm looking to avoid weighing myself down with fried seafood and peeling crawfish while wearing suit just isn't an option, I usually turn to raw fish. In this inaugural edition of Fish Fridays, here is my ranking of the 10 sushi bars that I have visited over the last year.

1. Kanno - After your first meal prepared by Chef Hide and his wife Lin, you will never again hesitate to make the journey to Fat City. I'm partial to the Lobster Dynamite Roll and Hot Garlic Softshell Crab, but Hide has never steered me wrong with any of his impromptu creations.
2. Kyoto - While the quality of the rice has varied on recent visits, I still believe that Kyoto serves some of the best sushi in town. Best bets: Poke Salad and the Shrimp Sara Roll.
3. Sushi Bros - Quality fish, sizable portions, and fast service all at an affordable price. The 4 Roll Lunch Special, complete with soup and salad, will run you $11. If you're into more complicated rolls, I recommend the FEMA Roll (pictured top).
4. Sake Cafe (Uptown) - Extensive menu of special rolls with unique preparations and a dizzying array of sauces.
5. Little Tokyo (Mid-City) - According to the menu, fish is flown in weekly from the Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo. If the Japanese style "fish and chips" is available, order it as a starter.
6. Shogun - The first sushi bar in the area. Try the Steve Roll of barbeque eel and avocado.
7. Ninja - Some of the nicest staff in the business. Don't miss the Cajun Tuna Tataki.
8. Rock-n-Sake - At night this place resembles the Jersey Shore, but during Friday lunch the crowd is more my style. Order the Calamari Crunch Roll, but be prepared to battle on the dance floor.
9. Wasabi - The original location on Frenchman is better than the new one in West End.
10. Hana - Big fan of the complimentary noodle salad and the large portions (see the salmon box above), but unfortunately I find the fish lacks in quality behind the others.