Wow

The other night Thomas Keller and Grant Achatz of Alinea (who trained under Keller at TFL) prepared a 20-course meal, with each chef getting 10 dishes. The cost was $1500 a piece. There will be two more of these dinners (one each at Alinea and TFL). This dinner was held at. Chef Keller's per se in New York.

Partly this series of dinners is to promote both chefs new cookbooks. Achatz released "Alinea" a month or so ago and Keller will release "Under Pressure" soon. One of these days we will cover an event like this. Until then we bring you live reporting from the Shrimp and Petroleum Festival.

Here is a link to the menu.

Peter's review of TFL will arrive shortly after his visit there later this month. All I can say to Peter is that I hate him and his stupid reservations.

Top Chef

A full wrap up of the first episode, along with gambling lines, will arrive shortly. Until then enjoy this.

And this from Ben Jamon.

Its the end of the week, cut us some slack. You see all those photos we have posted?

Sukho Thai

Located in the Marigny just four blocks from our publisher's home office, Sukho Thai is a relatively well kept secret for local Thai fanatics. No one is more addicted to curry than I am, but when at Sukho Thai I usually branch out beyond the typical pad thai and curry menu items. If I am downtown and in the mood for some spice during lunch, I go the extra step and drive out to Sukho Thai rather than settle for Singha Thai on Carondelet.

There. I said it. Singha Thai is not good. It's really not. If you don't feel like driving, fine. I understand. Walk over to Panasia in the bottom of the Place St. Charles Hotel. But why so many people go to Singha Thai, I will never understand.

Anyway, here a few photos from Sukho Thai, courtesy of The Folk Singer.

I almost always start a Thai meal with the spicy chicken and coconut milk soup that is Tom Kha. Sukho Thai's version has a more pronounced lemongrass flavor than others.

This is the Appetizer Sampler (from top to bottom): the signature "Shrimp in a Pouch" with plum dipping sauce, deep fried vegetable spring rolls, and the (not-so-Thai) Ahi Katsu Roll - sushi grade tuna coated in bread crumbs and flash fried. The Katsu Roll is innovative for a Thai restaurant, but something seems wrong with deep frying such high quality tuna. On the other hand, I could eat about a dozen of those pouches.

Waterfall Beef is probably the second most popular item on the menu. It's a cold dish of seared beef flavored with the tartness lime juice and the sweetness of Thai basil.

One more thing you should know: Sukho Thai is BYOB. So don't forget to bring along a bottle of wine or an ice chest full of Singha beer. We won't judge.

Finally, don't forget that the New York Season of Top Chef premieres tonight.

St. James Dinner with Ashbell McElveen

Last Thursday, Lindsay and I attended a dinner at St. James guest chefed by Ashbell McElveen. Chef McElveen's cuisine is his interpretation of African, Caribbean, French, and Southern cuisine all rolled into one. Which when you think about it, sounds exactly like a description of New Orleans.

The food was largely cooked on an outdoor grill and a dual burner propane rig. Despite that, Chef McElveen and his team sent out a wonderful array of appetizing plates. I really hope he gets his own place up and running soon, as I would love to see what he can accomplish with a full arsenal.

First course was a homemade bacon wrapped gulf shrimp with a salad and three cheese croutons. Very good. the bacon was thinner than commercial bacon; it almost crossed into prosciutto land. Could have used a spike more dressing, but as always I would rather a salad be nude as opposed to overly adorned.

These dinners at St. James are BYOB. We started out with a 2005 Justin Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. This wine is fast becoming one of my favorite white wines for pairing with food. We also had a 2005 Andre Brunel Cote du Rhone Villages Cuvee Sabrine, which is pictured in the photo. Both wines are available at Cork and Bottle. The latter is poured by the glass at Clever.

A plate of grilled vegetables. Quite simply the best dish of the night. I love food like this. Each vegetables was expertly introduced to the flames, charred, and dressed simply with olive oil, salt, vinegar, and pepper. I love how a grill can make a vegetable (ok its not really a vegetable, but you know what I mean) like mushrooms smoky and meaty while at the same time sweetening an onion to unfathomable heights.

Also, served was a curried crab over fried plantains. While the plantains were either undercooked or under ripe or both, the curried crab exploded with rich flavors of cumin and allspice. This dish would have been absolutely a stunner if served over some fluffy white rice as without rice the dish seemed a little thin. A little more retooling of this dish and it could rightly sit beside shrimp creole, gumbo, and trout amandine.

Next, a cheese plate. A tomme crayeuse, a munster, and a laguiole. Served alongside this wonderful selection of cheeses, was a candied apple and these dynamite homemade lemon scented biscuits. The biscuits had more in common with a cookie, but this makes sense, as Chef McElveen previously worked in London where apartments are called flats and cookies are biscuits. The biscuits were the perfect foil for the rich cheeses.

Next a dessert of caramelized peaches over a light and airy cake. Pretty good finish and not overly sweet. Although my favorite part of this dessert was that it came with goat cheese with fresh cracked black pepper, which rounded out a classic pairing of flavors and textures.

Once Chef McElveen gets his place, you can be sure I will be in that number sampling his take on New Orleans cuisine.

All photographs by Lindsay. Usually taken about 3 bites into each dish when we said "Shoot we forgot to take a photograph. Gee Willickers." Thus, the rustic nature of the photos.

Also, seen at this dinner was the St. James Girl, A.K.A. the 5000th Visitor to El Blogo.

Idea

I can cook, somewhat. However, gardening still presents an immense challenge to my green thumbs and two left feet.

Scattered throughout the neighborhoods of New Orleans, abandoned homes and empty lots sit like missing teeth in an otherwise brilliant smile. After reading the link on this post, I began thinking of how the concept of a Victory Garden could help reduce some of the visual distress of New Orleans.

So I welcome your thoughts on this. What if neighborhoods could negotiate with the landowners of these properties for a usufruct over some of the empty lots on a street or in a neighborhood. Then the neighborhood could use these lots to grow plants, herbs, fruits, vegetables, or just keep the space pretty.

I see two benefits here. First, it would continue to strengthen the bonds of neighborhoods. Secondly, it would provide those that participate with a source of fresh, seasonal produce.

Thoughts?

Reveillon Returns

One of the best restaurant deals in town returns starting after Thanksgiving. I know what you are thinking that is really far away. But you know how hard it is to get a group of people together to celebrate over the holidays? With office parties, shopping days, and religious rituals, time is at a premium. I am not talking about spending time with family; I am talking about spending time with people you actually like.

The Reveillon Dinners harken back to a tradition when people would go over to other people's houses for grand feasts during the holidays. In today's world a good thing to do is to gather some of your friend(s), head to one of the restaurants, let someone else cook and clean, and have a good time. The participating restaurants offer a set menu with usually 2-3 choices per course at a low fee (average is $50 a head).

Menus and information available here. If there is interest perhaps a State Dinner?

Dear Mimi, Please Pass the Salt

A few weeks ago The Folk Singer and I decided to headed to Mimi's in the Marigny to satisfy our late night hunger. I know what you're thinking, "Tapas? Again? When will it ever end?" In a word: NEVER.

Actually, I am sure that the tapas craze will probably subside like other food trends that have come and gone before it. But I must say that I for one enjoy and sometimes prefer dining on three (... or four ... or five) appetizers in lieu of a main dish. And I am not the only one. How many times have you read this in one of Fr. Tom's reviews: "The appetizers are so delicious that one could make a meal out of those alone"?

The only problem (for me at least) is that I am not big on sharing my small plates for two reasons: 1) usually the portions are too small to split among more than two people, and 2) sometimes I feel that half (or less) of an appetizer is not enough to fully appreciate a dish. I guess you could say that this is one instance in which "sharing is caring" is an addage which need not be followed.

But I digress.

Mimi's was good, and you (sadly) can't find a better option for late night food in the city. But one recurring theme in every dish we ordered was a lack of seasoning. Now I have been told many a time that I over salt my food, but this was one instance when TFS backed me up. As Ruhlman more eloquently put it, salt can be a good thing. Salt enhances the flavors of foods during the cooking process. Maybe my trip was an isolated incident, but if there was one suggestion I could make to the chef it would be this: Do everything the same, except increase the salt and pepper during preparation.

Here are two snapshots of the dishes we tried:




This is the tomato and avocado bruschette.

The mushroom manchego cheese toast was the second best dish on the table: mushrooms in a cream sauce ladled over manchego and crusty bread.

Other dishes included the pork cannoli (shredded pork in a rolled pastry crust that was then deep fried and served with a sweet n' spicy BBQ sauce), an overly acidic and chewy ceviche, and patatas bravas. But the overall winner was the dish that ended up being dessert: freshly fried goat cheese croquetas drizzled with honey. Outstanding.

Mimi's in the Marigny - Par.

Go Get Wicked Smart

A press release from Mrs. McCall...

The Young Leadership Council and the Literary Alliance of Greater New Orleans are hosting a special panel discussion on Wednesday, November 5th in conjunction with the YLC's One Book One New Orleans project. This year's novel is City of Refuge by Tom Piazza.

The book tells the story of two very different New Orleans families and their struggles during and after Katrina. The panel discussion will highlight one strong theme throughout the novel – New Orleans' identity through its unique food and beverage. Panel members include Ralph Brennan, Jim Monaghan, Jr. of Molly's at the Market, and Sara Roahen.

The discussion is from 5:30 pm to 7:00 pm at the Southern Food and Beverage Museum. You do not have to be a member of the YLC or Literary Alliance to attend. Actually, you don't have to have read the novel to enjoy the panel (but it wouldn't hurt). But, space is limited…

For more information visit our website at http://www.onebookoneneworleans.com/.

Look, you are just getting stupider every day that you waste reading this blog. So if you have time tonight, go to SOFAB, listen to real writers, get some knowledge, and then start your own blog.

And another good link from Ben Jamon. I know Peter is very stoked to see the French Laundry on that list.

After Work Today...

Every four years the citizens of America rally around the local ballot box to cast their vote for the next president. And legend has it that if the president-elect sees his shadow, we get four more years of late night comedy.

We here at Blackened Out feel it is below us to pollute such a noble website with discussions about politics. And we dont want to ostracize half of our viewers by endorsing one candidate or another. Plus our mothers always told us to not talk about religion or politics at the dinner table.

But we have a feeling tonight Americans will be either really happy, very relieved, depressed, or furious by the end of tonight. But mostly citizens will be drunk. So tonight head on out to the Bombay Club and watch the election results. The Bombay Club has the type of atmosphere to make any Republican feel elitist and any Democrat guilty about the sorry state of the hoi polloi. A large selection of martinis will help you either drown sorrows or celebrate victory. Good food as well. And private booths in case Mary Matalin and James Carville decide to reach across the aisle in a display of bipartisan affection. Gross.

Let's face it the Presidential Election is important, but not as important to New Orleanians as the DA's race or the Congressional election in which Dollar Bill seeks to cement his position as the least effective member of Congress. When the FBI raided the freezers of the Blackened Out office they found 3 snickers bars, a bottle of vodka, and some frozen fish.

How both Presidential candidates have been able to run for office without barely mentioning New Orleans, hurricane protection, or Katrina is beyond us; but maybe that is for the best. Leave us alone and drinking.

No matter the outcome of any and all elections tomorrow Blackened Out Media will begin selling the following bumper sticker, "Don't blame me, I voted for The Pope."

OBAMA!!!! MCCAIN!!!! ITS THE 2008 PRESIDENTIAL ELECTION ON FOX!

Truffled Grits

The last few mornings have been very cold at the house. Not colder than St. Louis in February, but it still being early fall in New Orleans, one does not expect temperatures below 70. Ok let's be honest, temperatures below 80 at this time of year are strange. Well the Hounds of Bassetville wake up at 5:45 a.m. each morning and they expect a walk. So, like the good slaves we are, we oblige them.

The last few mornings, returning to the golden glowing house, I have made grits. But not just any grits, truffle grits, and non-instant, non-magic grits at that. Towards the end of cooking, I wisk in a beaten egg, a large pat of butter, and some truffled sea salt. Start to finish, 15 minutes.

The result is a freaking taste explosion: earthy, musty, sensous, creamy, and rich. With a few pieces of buttered and charred whole grain bread, the cold shakes off and is replaced by warmth. The hassles of the coming day momentarily forgotten, even the dogs seem to calm down.

This truffle salt is expensive make no mistake about it, however, a little goes a very long way. But over the last few months we have sprinkled it over all sorts of dishes with fascinating results. And all you need is a pinch, if that to really transform something simple, into something great. Another great use is over popcorn.

Get some, impress your neighbors, make new friends, and stop being boring.

After Work Today...

Well, I dont need to tell you that it is the scariest night of the year tonight. Lots going on but just make sure you are costumed; preferably as a food object. Once in college Legend and I dressed as Trick or Treat. He went in a drag as a hooker, and I hot glued candy to some sweat pants and a sweat shirt.

Let's just say better ideas have sprung forth from this brain, but I had candy to eat for about a year after that and new fat clothes, which paired nicely with my steady diet of Za, Nat Light, chicken fingers, and Skol Vodka. Ohh, and a year later 45 extra pounds and 4 cavities. And at that point in my life, a few complications from eating qualified as a sexually transmitted disease

Other costume ideas are a Lucky Dog Vendor or Ignatius J. O'Reilly. You could also dress up as a baked potato by wrapping yourself in foil and putting a piece of yellow construction paper on top of your head. But please, choose one of those three.

There are a bunch of events going on tonight. Have fun and be safe, kiddos.

Krewe of Boo, uptown.

Widespread Panic Rock and Roll Show at the UNO Lakefront Arena.

A huge blockparty on Frenchmen St. In the words of a friend, its "where all the freaks go." Expect to see Peter there dressed as a side of truffled grits from MiLa.

Or you could stay home and pass out candy. And if you happen to get some candy with hot glue on it, don't worry its fresh.

Congrats

To Chef Besh and his staff at August. A truly deserved honor.

http://www.neworleanscitybusiness.com/uptotheminute.cfm?recid=21175

And special thanks to the Nun...

And more to read.