Thursday, May 29, 2008

Upcoming Quasi-Blog Related Event/Meet and Greet

Say New Orleans to people and they immediately think of a few things. Until recently those thoughts would always include food, drink, and good times at the top of the list. Depending on who you listen to New Orleans is either home to the only original cuisine in America or a waste land of laurel resting, terrible food producing restaurants(and if you are listening to Alan Richmond, my apologies to your ears). Regardless of your opinion you will soon be able to receive an educated look at the food and beverage customs of the South when the Southern Food and Beverage Museum opens next week where Julia meets the River.

A museum on food and booze and the cultures they beget or get begetted from seems like a no-brainer, especially in the South. Luckily, the South lacks the puritanical dread that other parts of the country seem to focus on when one combines delicious food, good drink, and good times. Mr. Bourdain said it best when he said, "Good food and good wine does lead to sex. And that is the way it is supposed to be." Southerners and New Orleanians (they are wholly seperate) enjoy good food and good drink. Now a museum will explore that relationship.

To celebrate the opening of the Southern Food and Beverage (SOFAB*) Museum a party (naturally what did you expect a lecture?) will be held next Thursday from 7-9 pm at the above location. Tickets are $60 and include food from not just New Orleans restaurants, but also some of the South's best known eateries. Some great spots on that list. Ohhh and booze, a good amount of it. I am in; Peter is in; Pope? Anyone else?

I hate to sound all civic booster-ey. But go to this. Its a Thursday night for crying out loud. You can be home, in bed, drunk, full, content and sound asleep by 9:15.



*I can't decide if I think the name SOFAB is hip or the worst thing I have ever heard. It sounds at the same time like a Manhattan Night Club owned by Sofia Coppola and Antonio Banderas, a skin condition which requires Blue Star ointment, and something we have all been called at one point in our lives.

The Saints and Food...Who could ask for more?

Ever wonder what it would be like to have Deuce place a composed cheese plate in front of you? Or what it would be like if Drew Brees tossed you a roll? Mike McKenzie pouring a vintage Burgundy as Scott Fujita unlids a Chateaubriand? Well, here is your chance. Saints, Food, and a good cause. In our book, that is a perfect evening.

If the link does not work, just go to www.neworleanssaints.com

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Father's Day Alert

Recently Ralph Brennan released his eponymous cookbook covering the seafood of New Orleans. This book has a certain amount of heft to it; however one thing you will appreciate is the detail to which Mr. Brennan and his co-writers devote to each recipe. Ever wanted to know how to clean soft-shell crabs? A photographic step-by-step account awaits. I highly recommend this book (and Mr. Brennan will gladly sign and personalize a copy for you) for either you or say your dad.

On Saturday for lunch Lady and I tried out Mr. Brennan's recipe for Barbecue Shrimp. We scored some U-15s from the Crescent City Farmer's Market. The recipe turned out wonderful. However, in an attempt to make the recipe more user friendly, Mr. Brennan instructs the careful culinarian to add a few drops of water followed by bits of butter to the pan. This is of course essentially a technique known as beurre monte. However, for the sake of shrimp (and their fragile cooking time) I would suggest preparing the beurre monte beforehand and then ladling into the pan. This can easily by done by adding a tablespoon of water to a sauce pan and then slowly whisking in bits of cold butter. The resulting, still emulsified, melted butter is a great all around cooking tool (especially for ladling over meats before popping in the oven).

Using beurre monte, rather than making beurre monte in the pan, will allow you to better control the doneness of the shrimp. No real effect on the flavor, but perfectly cooked shrimp are easier to peel. And perfection is the only goal here at Blackened Out.

Other than that one minor problem, the shrimp exploded with flavor and of course, there was some serious sopping up to do. We drank a bottle of the Medlock Ames Chardonnay from the State Dinner. Then a nap. Nice little way to spend a Saturday.

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

And the winner is...

On Saturday, local chefs competed in the first ever Louisiana Seafood Cook-Off in conjunction with the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience. Apparently no one deems this competition worth reporting. No one, that is, save for us.

You heard it here first, folks. The winner of the inaugural Louisiana Seafood Cook-Off is none other than Brian Landry, Executive Chef of Galatoire's. The winning dish: lemonfish topped with jumbo lump crabmeat and crab butter.

Your next question: "What is crab butter?" Well, let me tell you. Chef Landry dumbed down the process for me: He "boiled" crab shells in butter until the butter broke, removed the shells, then whisked the butter back together over ice.

Brian will represent our great state in the fifth annual Great American Seafood Cook-Off, which will be held on August 2 & 3 in the Convention Center in conjunction with the Louisiana Food Service Expo (otherwise known as the "LRA Show" - aka "Christmas in August" for The Pope). More on this event later.

Congratulations, Brian. All I can say is that I, for one, am really glad that you decided to forego dental school in favor of the culinary arts.

Monday, May 26, 2008

Vega Tapas Cafe - The Cure for a Case of the Mondays

I love wine. But the only thing that I love more than wine is half-priced bottles of wine drunk alongside numerous plates of tapas. It just so happens that Vega has such a special every Monday night to allow for me to satisfy this particular indulgence, so off I went accompanied by The Folk Singer ("TFS").

Tapas fit my personal dining style to perfection. If it were up to me, I would order all appetizers for my entire meal and skip the entree. Unfortunately, when dining with a group of people, the multiple courses for myself would interrupt the flow of the meal for my fellow diners. But not such was the case on Monday night. TFS and I began with a few mojitos which were refreshing with mint and lime, and a perfect way to start the meal.

We decided to order a round of salad and cold tapas to start, and then judge our capacity later on for the rest of the menu. We were first served a roasted duck caesar salad, which consisted of a roasted duck leg paired alongside a caesar salad topped with a copious amount of freshly shaved parmigiano cheese. Though the duck leg was served room temperature and required stripping the meat off the bone, I appreciated both of these details for two reasons. First, I am not a fan of hot protein on top of a cold salad mix. I think that contrasting temperatures result in warm greens which were intended on being served cold. Second, I liked that the leg was served in tact because it assured the recent preparation of the meat, as opposed to precooked and shredded duck meat (which I have no problem with it, just making a note). These are minor details, but I thought that they were worth noting.

Our next two tapas were served simultaneously. The first was the plato de quesos, which was several cheeses accompanied by accouterments. I will admit, I have no idea what the cheeses were (and neither did our waiter), but I have no doubt that they came from the preeminent cheese mongers at St. James Cheese Company. The board had cheeses of varying strength and texture, but the accompaniments were what made the course. First, the fig mustard was incredible. It had the consistency of jelly but with the spiciness of mustard. To die for. Also included were slivers of tart pear, crunchy toast slices, and sugary sweet pecans. Our final cold small plate was a carpaccio of thinly sliced filet mignon topped with balsamic onions and sauteed mushrooms. The saltiness of the beef and the sweetness of the onions resulted in a delicious contrast of flavors on the palate.

On to the hot dishes. First a trio of tempura fried asparagus drizzled with a spicy aioli. Then a dish of huge shrimp sauteed in garlic and olive oil and then topped with a salty olive tapenade. Finally chicken, mushrooms, leeks and feta cheese wrapped in phylo dough and placed upon a pool of sherry butter. Quite honestly, by the time we had made it to the final round, the bottle of Sierra Cantabria Rioja had been downed and my stomach had reached capacity, but I will say that my favorite dish was the shrimp.

Vega on Monday night. You owe it to yourself to go. Just pretend that you are sitting in a quaint cafe in Madrid or along La Rambla in Barcelona. It will help you forget (at least for the duration of the meal) that you have four more days of work till the weekend.

Given the steal on the wines, Vega is a tap-in birdie on Monday nights.

Saturday, May 24, 2008

Korea House

Fat City gets a lot of laughs. The hubris of the 1960-70's Jefferson Parish council of believing it would become the new French Quarter beget a largely unpopulated derelict space in the 90s. However if one really thinks about it, there are some great spots down there to eat. Drago's of course, but not too far from Drago's is a spot that captured my heart: Korea House.

I did go to Doson's for lunch but my that only increased my desire for ethnic food. However at dinner the heat of ethnic food drew me like a moth to a flame. While walking the hounds, Asparagus and Penelope, we ran into Lady's boss who promised us Korea House was not to be missed. But she warned us, "the inside is nothing great."

I have a theory, well a lot of them, but this one is this: a certain amount of hodge-podge, accumulation of crap is indicative of a good meal. Beach side restaurant/shacks in the Caribbean always have a certain level of flotsam and jetsam which gives the place authenticity and character. Korea House has character, and of that a lot.

Our waitress who is also probably the owner steered us into ordering the following: Dumplings, Spicy Beef Soup (#37), the Squid (#9), short ribs(#18), and the pork (#19). Damn was it good.

All the food arrived at once. The dumplings were dumplings but very good to nibble on while the center of the table brazier heated up. At the center of our table a hole was filled with charcoal. On top of the charcoal a grate was placed. On top of the grate, meat was placed. Any questions, please ask the nearest Cave Man.

The soup had an huge beef broth which carried the flavors of tomato, spice, egg, scallions to a well-rounded finish. And enormous that portion. The squid, although a bit chewy, brought the spiciness we craved. But the real star of the evening was the beef short ribs and the pork.

The short ribs are sliced super thin, to allow their tenderness to show through following such a short cooking time. You remove the meat from the bone, place it inside a piece of lettuce, top it with rice and your choice of the condiments. My favorite was the bean paste, radish, and kim-chi (a preservation technique for things like cabbage and other vegetables). Roll it up and enjoy. This technique is also the way to eat the pork. Both are good, both satisfy whatever culinary urge you have.

I realize advocating for Korea House is nothing new. I am not trying to be Walter Cronkite here. But GOD DAMN is it delicious. As far as ethnic food goes, it blew me away. I suspect it will have the same effect on you.

Birdie

Friday, May 23, 2008

For Lunch Today...

Summer sneaks slowly toward New Orleans. After yesterday's rain something puts me in the mood for Vietnamese. Doson's Noodle House produces some high quality food at extremely affordable prices. Located where Canal meets Carrollton, the best bet in the joint remains the pho. A large, steaming bowl of intense stock flavored with basil, jalepenos, noodles, and lime and your choice of chicken, shrimp, or beef. Chicken pho is the way to go.

Now, for those of you who may think it is crazy to eat soup when the weather is warm, consider this; Vietnam is located in the sub-tropical region of Southeast Asia. That means heat and humidity plague the Vietnamese the same way it does to New Orleanians. Thus, I think they know the reasons to eat hot soup in warm months, just like Indians (dot, not feather) drink tea. Eating and drinking warm foods (especially spicy, warm foods) cools you off by convincing your sweat glands to perspire. I am not a doctor, but I play one on the blogosphere.

Try out Doson's Noodle House.

Thursday, May 22, 2008

Dr. John said it best...

Something about small restaurants grabs my attention. Vizard's redefines small and I could not be happier with my dining experience there. The wines were from Medlock Ames (Ames was in attendance).

Began with a glass of rose. Unlike the blush color of most roses, this wine had an almost copper tint to it. Good start.

First course arrived with a great chardonnay. Rather than stand by the California directive that all chardonnay's must have an oaky, buttery profile, this wine stood out for its delicate approach to a classic grape. First course was a lobster gnocchi with a smattering of mushrooms. Now, usually at these dinners that means if your dish has lobster in it, congrats you won, now do the dishes. Here enormous chunks of lobster rested their head on pillows of potato. Almost a unanimous choice for dish of the evening.

Next a cassoulet salad. Read that last sentence again. Duck Confit, pork belly, white beans, and escargot, (Holy Crap are you kidding me) plated onto a salad of frisee. The heat from the cassoulet heated the frisee and took some of the bitterness out of that green. Wine missed the mark, it being a Red Blend. With something as soulful and deep as a cassoulet salad, a wine with a smoother finish would have perhaps paired better. Not a bad wine, maybe a tad immature. As some have said about myself.

Now, veal tournedos encrusted in whole grain mustard with sweetbreads and a sauce flavored with spices and chocolate. The spice of the dish, which was really the mustard, worked really well with the tenderness of the veal. The sweetbreads were fried perfectly. Little nuggets of thymus gland, so good the I want more impulse took over. Wine was a merlot. Ames began his discussion on this merlot by once again telling everyone that just because Sideways (a terrible movie in my opinion) told American's Merlot is shit, does not mean it is. And this Merlot proved that.

Spinalis. I had no clue what this was so let me explain. It is the cap end of a rib eye. Tender as a filet with the marbling of a rib eye, this is one hell of a cut of meat. The plate was finished with some fried oysters. I think Chef Vizard was going for a play on a carpetbagger steak. Whatever he attempted it worked. Just an amazing all around dish. This course was paired with a Cabernet. Big, juicy and just that slight of hint of tanin. I really loved this wine, we made out.

Ended things with a cheese course, which I really liked as it meant I did not have to wake up in the middle of the night and stare at the ceiling.

Now, usually at these dinners the food is about par. Which is ok, the kitchen is taxed to turn out 45 plates of food at the same time. Well, last night the food broke the mold. All the food hit birdie or even eagle status. I anxiously await a return to Vizards and I suggest you go as well. That kitchen cooks. You know it is a succesful dinner when discussion centers around everyone's favorite dish; and each person argues persuasively for different dishes.

The Pope could not make it and we had to sub a different couple at the last minute. But our table had a great time. So thanks to everyone who made it and thanks to Medlock Ames and the staff at Vizards. We had great company, delicious food, interesting new wines, and an evening to remember. Such a night...

Eagle on the evening, Birdie-eagle on everything.

Mark your calendars for July 17th. Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Dinners.

Tuesday, May 20, 2008

A great read...

Thanks to the Bride-Has-Been for passing this along. Great detail in this article. If you wanted to get pumped/stoked/amped/jacked about food and or wine or NOWFE, here is your chance.

http://www.bestofneworleans.com/dispatch/2008-05-20/feat.php

Sunday, May 18, 2008

Holy Week is upon us

Its almost here. Not yet summer (thanks Live Earth), the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience begins on Tuesday and runs through Sunday. The blog and its devotee can hardly wait for dinner on Wednesday. A few spaces remain so if you still have interest in joining us at Vizard's, call and get a reservation.

Thursday evening, the Royal Street Stroll takes place on Royal. 92% of the galleries on Royal will have food and wine and your job is to march through drinking in, both with your eyes and your mouth, art and wine, respectively.

A multitude of seminars and the Grand Tastings on Friday and Saturday night round out what is sure to be a great weekend. Go, you do not have to work on Monday, and if you do not support events like this they will flee to some town like Little Rock. See I did learn something from Al Gore.

Information here.

Lady and I will spend next weekend in New York. We already have reservations at Craft and Babbo, any other recommendations will be appreciated.

Saturday, May 17, 2008

O Sole Mila

Next week I am going to New York; last night I got a taste of the Big Apple. My sister found a babysitter and wanted to go out for an adult evening. Why she chose to spend it with me, I lack an answer for. We tossed around a few ideas before settling on Mila.

Mila operates in the space that was formerly Rene Bistrot but long before that the original home of Jesuit High School. The space is sleek, but comfortable with large banquettes circling the walls and huge picture windows. Golds, blues, and chocolates dominate the color palate; while serious food rules your palate.

We started with some cocktails. A madras for my sister, a Louisiana 75 for Lady, and a mint julep. The Louisiana 75 missed the mark. An amuse arrived. A crawfish and lobster empanada. Really tasty start right there. The buttery crust serving as the de facto "drawn butter" normally served with lobster.

Appetizers got a little larger. A Tian of Louisiana Crab for sister displayed the utter sweetness of crab this time of year. New Orleans Barbecue Lobster revealed perfectly cooked lobster with just enough flavoring to make the dish interesting without overpowering the taste of lobster. I got a salad; albeit, one with house cured duck ham. Would have liked a touch more acid on the mizuna greens but maybe that is just me.

Entrees really displayed the entirety of the Rushing's vision. Based on the portions sizes up to now, we were all expecting a rather minuscule main (which would have been fine) instead we each received a sizable and satisfying main dish. Tea smoked duck with a sweet glaze on top. Love duck prepared this way, Lady said she would have liked some more vegetables on the plate (so all of a sudden you are a health nut). Sister enjoyed her lemon fish in what looked to be a ramp or other spring onion vinaigrette; although she found some pieces of the fish tasted more fishy than other pieces. I rocked and I do mean rocked the veal medallions. Beyond tender pieces of veal served with a mushroom cream sauce.

2006 Acacia Pinot Noir paired nicely with all the above; the wine cellar of the restaurant is really unique. I can not describe it other than to say, "cool."

A Cheese plate with an eggplant marmalade satisfied Lady. I chose to go another more adult route and got the peanut butter and chocolate tart. If I had to pick one last sweet to eat before going to the great gig in the sky, it would probably be a Reese's Peanut Butter Cup (or egg if Easter). This dish was a sophisticated, damn fine version of that.

Service is incredibly efficient and approachable. Besides the New York vibe of the space, this restaurant is within arm's reach of familiar New Orleans cuisine. Hopefully, Mila will continue to push the New Orleans food scene further.

Even better, walking in we ran into Tom Fitzmorris who was also dining at Mila that evening. What is that saying about great minds?

Birdie on a really difficult par 5.

Thursday, May 15, 2008

NOWFE Event

Next Friday for lunch, instead of doing somethign stupid, filling up on a prepackaged triangle of soggy bread, processed meat, dopey cheese, and institutional mayo, go to the NOWFE Charcuterie Seminar. Chef Rene Bajeux will inform and feed you. You can not imagine a better day. Meat, wine, French Chefs, at the Casino, amazing.