We, the undersigned chefs of the greater New Orleans Area, have taken out this full page ad on Blackened Out to deride Tom Fitzmorris's Food Show on WSMB Radio. We find a list of grievances which we can no longer withhold from the public eye.
Issue #1: For over 20 years, Mr. Fitzmorris has assailed the eardrums of the local populace with his whiny voice. "It sounds like he is gargling frogs who have been smoking for over 50 years and have one of those voice box things. Yeah, voice boxed heavy smoking frogs being gargled, that is Tom's voice," said Chef John Besh.
"I have heard it said before that Mr. Fitzmorris has a 'face for radio' but I think a more apt description is that he has a voice for a typewriter," said Adolfo Garcia.
Be it resolved, Mr. Fitzmorris is required to take voice lessons from the ghost of Buddy D in order to make locals understand what he is saying.
Issue #2: Undercover research has revealed that Mr. Fitzmorris routinely chows down on plebian foodstuff such as Corndogs, Icees, and Krispy Kremes. How can a food critic in a city known for its diverse and unique foodstuffs deliver competent critiques of such food if his favorite meal is those rectangular sandwiches one picks up at Time-Saver?
For years, Mr. Fitzmorris has used his Dining Diary to cajole New Orleanians into trying foods he has never eaten. It is time to stop the lies, Tom. A Nation that holds dear the Freedom of the Press requires the Press to abide by its obligation to tell the truth.
"I tried to make a recipe from his 'New Orleans Cookbook' unfortunately Whole Foods did not stock Campbell's Chicken Noodle Soup, Vienna Sausages, and Saltines to make Fitz's Quick Sausage and Chicken Gumbo with Saltine croûtons. So instead I made a delicate poached side of Salmon," lambasted Donald Link.
Be it resolved, Mr. Fitzmorris's Daily Dining Diary on nomenu.com will require photo documentation of any meals eaten. No longer will Fitz be able to call his meal of Doritos and Circus Peanuts as a "delightful blend of caramel ice cream with a sea salt demi-glace."
Issue #3: Mr. Fitzmorris constantly uses his bully pulpit to deride, dismiss, and destroy diners who choose to eat sans tie and jacket. Yet, have you ever seen how this guy dresses?
"Those in glass houses should not throw stones, Tom," chided Kevin Vizard, "and your fashion choices reveal a man living in an incredibly fragile abode."
Be it resolved, Mr. Fitzmorris may no longer deride diners for their choice of attire during dinner unless he gets a guest judging spot on Project Runway.
We write this on behalf of the citizenry of
Love,
The Chefs, Cooks, Waiters, Bussers, Managers, Sommeliers, and Diners of
Monday, March 31, 2008
A Critique of a Restaurant Critic
Galatoire's To Unveil New Service Initiative
In a stunning move yesterday, Melvin Rodrigue, general manager of Galatoire's, revealed the new direction the centuries old eatery will take.
"We recently returned from a convention of the National Association of Multi-Branch Restaurants held in
"The chains do a good job of insuring top notch customer service and creating repeat clients. That is something Galatoire's has always hoped to be able to do," Rodrigue added before using a Power Point presentation to illustrate the changes to be made.
First, Galatoire's will invest $250,000 in installing and purchasing a state of the art paging system. "Many chains do not take reservations and they use these nifty little pagers to alert their clients when their table is ready. We have never taken reservations for downstairs, I really can't believe it took us this long to begin using these," said David Gooch.
The RestAlert 345-BVX will be roughly the size of a brick and will have a bead chain. This will allow the waiting person to wear the pager around the neck. Patrons will be alerted when their table is ready by a "colorful light show" and a "cheerful version of Tea for Two" blared out of the RestAlert's powerful marine speakers.
One great benefit of installing the paging system will be that it will allow patrons to sit at the Old Absinthe House or Rick's Cabaret while waiting for their table, instead of having to awkwardly stand in the anteroom or climb stairs to the upstairs bar.
Secondly, Galatoire's will begin "Bourbon Street Curb Service." "We loved that the guys from Chilis have this thing where a person can call in an order, pull up, and a team member runs out to deliver your food...How great is that?" glowed Rodrigue.
Galatoire's will also institute a 3 course, 15 minute time limited business lunch. "We lose too many customers because the oilmen, lawyers, and ladies on luncheon take 4 hours to eat and drink," said Gooch, "we have tables to turn."
The hope is that the move will triple their revenue stream by increasing the amount of people served daily. Not only that but the 15 minute time limit should contribute to greater efficiency in New Orleans's offices during the hours of 1-6 p.m.
Thirdly, Galatoire's will update the menu to include more pictures and less "stuffy French names." For example, Souffle Potatoes will now be called Fluffy Potato Poppers and will be filled with either zesty cheese sauce or Buffalo Wing Sauce. Pompano en Papillote is now called "Fish in Bag."
Galatoire's will also consult with world class celebrity chef, Sandra Lee, of Food Network's "Semi Homemade with Sandra Lee" to develop new menu items. "What is great about Mrs. Lee is she knows what people want. Canned Chili layered with cheese and sour cream in a parfait glass...I'll have two," added Executive Chef of Galatoire's Brian Landry.
Mrs. Lee, reached by phone in her home town of
"I also can't wait to spruce up the interior with some brilliant tablescapes made of reclaimed football helmets. And those mirrored walls. The last time I saw that many mirrors I was on my back in a sleezy motel."
Finally, waiters at Galatoire's will have new uniforms designed by the tandem of Tommy Hilfiger and Lauren Conrad from MTV's "The Hills". "Tuxedos were so last millennium," said Bryant and Doris Sylvester, while modeling the new uniform.
The new uniform features a Nehru collared shirt and a colorful striped vest. The pants were updated to include a more modern style and comfort and will now be capris. Some waiters will wear roller skates in order to better serve the Bourbon Street Curb Service.
"I would promise if these changes are instituted, I will never go back to Galatoires," said Dr. Brobson Lutz. "But I make that promise every time they change anything and I have yet to keep it. I can't wait to see Richard in capri pants!"
Certainly some of these changes will take getting used to, but as with all great traditions they must start at some time. Indeed, the future for the centuries old eatery looks bright.
New Restaurant Opening
Nacho Mama's Authentic Mexican Cantina revealed plans for a family friendly eatery to open in the space that used to be Jackson on Magazine Avenue. The new venture will feature a kid's play land and a relaxed comfortable interior. The menu will focus on regional Mexican street food and homestyle Mexican Cuisine, the Mole will be the main attraction. The tentative name for the place is Nacho Baby's Mama.
Also in the works is a prenatal paternity testing site. The restaurant/clinic will offer clinical services and childhood paternity testing for neighborhood citizens, along with delicious Tex-Mex cuisine. The name of this service will be Nacho Baby's Daddy.
Also in the works is a prenatal paternity testing site. The restaurant/clinic will offer clinical services and childhood paternity testing for neighborhood citizens, along with delicious Tex-Mex cuisine. The name of this service will be Nacho Baby's Daddy.
Donald Link: "Veganism is a Calling"
Donald Link a chef known for brilliant porkographic palate pleasing preparations, fried egg topped pasta, and delightful dairy infused desserts has become an avowed Vegan. "Some people have callings, to me Veganism is a calling. I can no longer hide my love for clean living and my hatred of all products which even look at animals," announced Chef Link yesterday.
Both Herbsaint and Cochon have been purged of all animal products. Chef Link removed all pork, beef, fish, eggs, butter, chicken, and even three waiters who have dogs from the premises. In fact the holistic healer and Vegan preacher Shiva Rabbi Maui Al-Hak Bar O'Flannery came in and performed a ritualized cleansing and purification of both restaurants.
Early experiments in Vegan cooking have uncovered a softer more refined food from both kitchens. In one preparation, mustard greens are cooked for up to 5 hours in little more than olive oil, salt, pepper, and wheat germ in Cochon's cavernous ovens. What results is a meltingly tender, full-flavored hearty vegan dish, with non of the guilt associated with non-Vegan eating.
"Do you realize for every animal raised to feed one person, seventeen acres of Mt. Everest disappears into the Indian Ocean? And the Polar Ice caps, don't get me started. Have you ever seen a fish swimming in the ocean, how gross is that?" ranted Link.
"I can no longer continue to leave a ginormous carbon footprint. From now on I will only fly in vegetables, oats, and wheat germ if it is out of season in New Orleans," Link announced.
As for Chef Link's plans to open a salumi and wine bar, those plans are still on. "You'd be amazed at what a person can accomplish with Xanthum Gum, Mung Beans, MSG, and Chervil," remarked Link.
Both Herbsaint and Cochon have been purged of all animal products. Chef Link removed all pork, beef, fish, eggs, butter, chicken, and even three waiters who have dogs from the premises. In fact the holistic healer and Vegan preacher Shiva Rabbi Maui Al-Hak Bar O'Flannery came in and performed a ritualized cleansing and purification of both restaurants.
Early experiments in Vegan cooking have uncovered a softer more refined food from both kitchens. In one preparation, mustard greens are cooked for up to 5 hours in little more than olive oil, salt, pepper, and wheat germ in Cochon's cavernous ovens. What results is a meltingly tender, full-flavored hearty vegan dish, with non of the guilt associated with non-Vegan eating.
"Do you realize for every animal raised to feed one person, seventeen acres of Mt. Everest disappears into the Indian Ocean? And the Polar Ice caps, don't get me started. Have you ever seen a fish swimming in the ocean, how gross is that?" ranted Link.
"I can no longer continue to leave a ginormous carbon footprint. From now on I will only fly in vegetables, oats, and wheat germ if it is out of season in New Orleans," Link announced.
As for Chef Link's plans to open a salumi and wine bar, those plans are still on. "You'd be amazed at what a person can accomplish with Xanthum Gum, Mung Beans, MSG, and Chervil," remarked Link.
Sunday, March 30, 2008
Lunch Today....
It being a Monday the obvious choice is Red Beans and Rice with Hot Sausage. There are numerous places to go for that and every person has their favorite. But for my money the best Red Beans and Rice lunch was at Jesuit High School. The "Super" was $2.50 which gave you an double order of Red Beans and Rice, a big hunk of cornbread, a salad, and a silicone breast implant of chocolate milk. Plus, when you were ready to leave you could harass the Dumpster Gnome.
Friday, March 28, 2008
The Official Blackened Out State Dinner
As has been discussed before the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience (NOWFE) will require our utmost attention. One of the key events of NOWFE, the Winery Dinners, will offer the opportunity for all of us to get together, enjoy each other's company, eat, and drink wine. That and get incredibly hammered, spill food on ourselves, and make regrettable decisions.
This is super advanced warning but on May 21st, at 7 p.m. the Official First Ever Biennial Blackened Out State Dinner will be held. Location to be determined; everyone is invited. A selection committee will be formed to choose the venue. Should you wish to lobby for a particular location, please let us know by emailing us at blackenedout@gmail.com. The selection committee will operate in much the same fashion as the Super Delegates. That is if the majority of readers want to go to one restaurant, and the Selection Committee wants to go elsewhere, the Selection Committee may use it's supreme powers to choose another place.
A incomplete list of participating restaurants and wineries (and 2 menus) is available at http://nowfe.com/html/vintner_dinners.html.
Hope you can join us.
This is super advanced warning but on May 21st, at 7 p.m. the Official First Ever Biennial Blackened Out State Dinner will be held. Location to be determined; everyone is invited. A selection committee will be formed to choose the venue. Should you wish to lobby for a particular location, please let us know by emailing us at blackenedout@gmail.com. The selection committee will operate in much the same fashion as the Super Delegates. That is if the majority of readers want to go to one restaurant, and the Selection Committee wants to go elsewhere, the Selection Committee may use it's supreme powers to choose another place.
A incomplete list of participating restaurants and wineries (and 2 menus) is available at http://nowfe.com/html/vintner_dinners.html.
Hope you can join us.
Lunch Today....
Chances are you are going somewhere after work today. The Hornets are in town and there is a whole slate of college basketball games on today. Plus, weather wise New Orleans has no equal this time of year. So walk down to the Quarter. For lunch today, Mr. B's Bistro would hit the spot. Since it is a Friday, the $1.50 cocktail specials (Bloody Mary, Martini, and Mother's Ruin Punch) would operate the leadoff position. As you glance over the menu, I am positive you will eat roughly 3-4 loaves of hot, crusty French Bread.
Mr. B's has some great appetizers; however, no trip to this comfortable Gentleman's Club-esque bistro, would be complete without a bowl of Gumbo Ya-Ya. Plus the nice weather right now means the heat is coming. And you can't very well eat a bowl of hot, hearty gumbo in 95 degree heat, can you?
If Chicken Pontalba is on the menu get it. That is chicken breast with its crispy skin intact, over brabant potatoes and ham topped with hollandaise. If not, pick something else: Barbecue shrimp, pasta specialties, a really good looking burger.
This way you can eat enough at lunch today, so that you can skip dinner tonight and not feel too bad about it. For late night eats, if you are down in the Warehouse District, I'd swing by Cochon. Anywhere else, good luck; the Dough Bowl near The Boot is open late.
Note: If you would like to impress someone today. Let them know that the word Bistro is actually a Russian word meaning "quick". At one point, and let's be honest it happens a lot, Paris was overrun with Russian troops. After drinking the troops would want quick, fast food and would run through the streets shouting, "Bistro, Bistro." Sound familiar? You learn something new everyday.
Mr. B's has some great appetizers; however, no trip to this comfortable Gentleman's Club-esque bistro, would be complete without a bowl of Gumbo Ya-Ya. Plus the nice weather right now means the heat is coming. And you can't very well eat a bowl of hot, hearty gumbo in 95 degree heat, can you?
If Chicken Pontalba is on the menu get it. That is chicken breast with its crispy skin intact, over brabant potatoes and ham topped with hollandaise. If not, pick something else: Barbecue shrimp, pasta specialties, a really good looking burger.
This way you can eat enough at lunch today, so that you can skip dinner tonight and not feel too bad about it. For late night eats, if you are down in the Warehouse District, I'd swing by Cochon. Anywhere else, good luck; the Dough Bowl near The Boot is open late.
Note: If you would like to impress someone today. Let them know that the word Bistro is actually a Russian word meaning "quick". At one point, and let's be honest it happens a lot, Paris was overrun with Russian troops. After drinking the troops would want quick, fast food and would run through the streets shouting, "Bistro, Bistro." Sound familiar? You learn something new everyday.
Wednesday, March 26, 2008
Reflection on Al Copeland
Enough has been said about Mr. Copeland's lifestyle, career, personal life, and such. This piece has little sufficient to add to that discussion. What does intrigue the author is how the death of Mr. Copeland reveals two wonderful traits unique to New Orleans.
New Orleans is a city that lives vicariously in many respects through its famous sons and daughters. To many people in New Orleans, Mr. Copeland served as a perfect model for how they would choose to live if they "won the lottery" or "made it big." And that is a beautiful thing. Living large, racing fast cars, catching speed boats on fire, spending money on Christmas Lights, front row seats to Hornets games, and always staying here in New Orleans.
Too often we lose to many of our best and brightest citizens to the hip, trendy, cosmopolitan cities of Dallas and Atlanta. Mr. Copeland was a local boy who stayed put and kept spending his money here. Contrast this with some of the pecuniary habits of New Orleans finest citizens. You know the ones. Ask them to invest $100,000 in a new business enterprise and they will look down upon you with disdain; yet, they will gladly spend that much to let their daughter play debutante for a year.
Mr. Copeland used his money for what money is made for: his enjoyment and to make more money. We could all learn from him.
Mr. Copeland's death also reveals a uniquely New Orleans phenomenon. People like Buddy D, Chris Owens, and Al Copeland are our celebrities. Sure, the lifestyles of those in Hollywood and New York are interesting, but they are not nearly as intriguing as the daily activities, peccadilloes, and actions of our celebrities. Only in New Orleans, and thankfully, does a fight between a Chicken King and a Casino Dealer draw front page news or the firing of a waiter at Galatoire's becomes a subject for a roundtable discussion.
Lady and I ran into Chris Owens at Saks the other day, and that was incredibly exciting. Think about that. We live in a city where seeing a woman who takes off her clothes nightly (at an age above retirement) elicits a "Ohhh wow, it really is her."
Now I am not saying other cities do not have similar traits; but I have never seen it.
The outpouring of grief for Buddy D when he passed highlights our love affair with our own. Buddy D was a radio man for his whole life. Few listeners understood Buddy, but that never stopped him. There was a certain mystery to trying to figure out what he was talking about.
"Hey man did you listen to Buddy after the game?"
"Ohh yeah when he was talking about Mora being an ostrich with his head in the sand, I thought I was going to piss myself."
"Mora, I thought he was talking about Big Shot Soda then."
Buddy D was so beloved by the people of New Orleans that he could never be taken off the air. His death touched all of us, especially Saints fans. When the Saints win the Super Bowl you can be sure the front page of the paper will reference Buddy D.
And by the way Bobby Hebert does a really good job of mispronouncing and mangling words himself. My favorite Bobby-ism was this fall when talking about the Saints running game which had been successful, Bobby said, "Hey how bout that running game? You know the running game was real affected today." Yes, it was Bobby.
Thank God we live here. A place where a Chicken King worth millions got envelopes of cash mailed to him by welders and school teachers when it was reported that he was going to lose Popeye's. A place where the King's English means how you yell at Rex for a Doubloon. Where exotic dancers own every room they enter. And a place where every time we loose one of them, another character steps up. Aint no place, I'd rather be.
New Orleans is a city that lives vicariously in many respects through its famous sons and daughters. To many people in New Orleans, Mr. Copeland served as a perfect model for how they would choose to live if they "won the lottery" or "made it big." And that is a beautiful thing. Living large, racing fast cars, catching speed boats on fire, spending money on Christmas Lights, front row seats to Hornets games, and always staying here in New Orleans.
Too often we lose to many of our best and brightest citizens to the hip, trendy, cosmopolitan cities of Dallas and Atlanta. Mr. Copeland was a local boy who stayed put and kept spending his money here. Contrast this with some of the pecuniary habits of New Orleans finest citizens. You know the ones. Ask them to invest $100,000 in a new business enterprise and they will look down upon you with disdain; yet, they will gladly spend that much to let their daughter play debutante for a year.
Mr. Copeland used his money for what money is made for: his enjoyment and to make more money. We could all learn from him.
Mr. Copeland's death also reveals a uniquely New Orleans phenomenon. People like Buddy D, Chris Owens, and Al Copeland are our celebrities. Sure, the lifestyles of those in Hollywood and New York are interesting, but they are not nearly as intriguing as the daily activities, peccadilloes, and actions of our celebrities. Only in New Orleans, and thankfully, does a fight between a Chicken King and a Casino Dealer draw front page news or the firing of a waiter at Galatoire's becomes a subject for a roundtable discussion.
Lady and I ran into Chris Owens at Saks the other day, and that was incredibly exciting. Think about that. We live in a city where seeing a woman who takes off her clothes nightly (at an age above retirement) elicits a "Ohhh wow, it really is her."
Now I am not saying other cities do not have similar traits; but I have never seen it.
The outpouring of grief for Buddy D when he passed highlights our love affair with our own. Buddy D was a radio man for his whole life. Few listeners understood Buddy, but that never stopped him. There was a certain mystery to trying to figure out what he was talking about.
"Hey man did you listen to Buddy after the game?"
"Ohh yeah when he was talking about Mora being an ostrich with his head in the sand, I thought I was going to piss myself."
"Mora, I thought he was talking about Big Shot Soda then."
Buddy D was so beloved by the people of New Orleans that he could never be taken off the air. His death touched all of us, especially Saints fans. When the Saints win the Super Bowl you can be sure the front page of the paper will reference Buddy D.
And by the way Bobby Hebert does a really good job of mispronouncing and mangling words himself. My favorite Bobby-ism was this fall when talking about the Saints running game which had been successful, Bobby said, "Hey how bout that running game? You know the running game was real affected today." Yes, it was Bobby.
Thank God we live here. A place where a Chicken King worth millions got envelopes of cash mailed to him by welders and school teachers when it was reported that he was going to lose Popeye's. A place where the King's English means how you yell at Rex for a Doubloon. Where exotic dancers own every room they enter. And a place where every time we loose one of them, another character steps up. Aint no place, I'd rather be.
Lunch Today, Wednesday March 27th
Get on Interstate headed towards the airport. Get off at N. Carrollton. Take North Carrollton to Bienville and turn right on Bienville. Stop at Liuzza's. If you gave up drinking during office hours for Lent, this would be a good time to pick up the habit again. Liuzza's serves beer ice-cold in frosted schooner mugs. Start with one of those.
You would do yourself a disservice if you did not order either the fried pickles or fried onion rings for an appetizer. The pickles are great but the show stopper is the fried onion rings. Home-made with a thin flaky exterior these onion rings are best with a little salt and a mixture of 50% ketchup and 50% hot sauce.
Prior to Katrina, the only thing I had ever ordered from Liuzza's was the Roast Beef Po-Boy, dressed. Following the glorious re-opening of Liuzza's they were unable to make Roast Beef for a long while. Since everyone had to sacrifice something following the storm, I began eating the Panee Chicken Po-Boy. That sandwich is so good, when the roast beef returned for a while I would go half Roast Beef and Half Panee Chicken. Finally in a Eureka moment the two were combined (WARNING: IF YOU GET NAUSEOUS EASILY, LOOK AWAY). When you go today ask them to bring you a Panee Chicken Po-Boy topped with roast beef and gravy, dressed of course. If that last sentence made you recoil in horror,, I apologize; if however, it made you go that sounds awesome, welcome to the Fat Kid Special.
Other great meals there include any of their fried seafood, plate lunches, or Italian specialities. Also, they have an original po-boy (French Fries, gravy, mayo, and cheese) and delicious fried green tomatoes with a tangy remoulade. The only drawback is that Liuzza's only takes cash. However, there is an ATM in the jernt. Which is really what Liuzza's is a perfect model of, the neighborhood jernt.
You would do yourself a disservice if you did not order either the fried pickles or fried onion rings for an appetizer. The pickles are great but the show stopper is the fried onion rings. Home-made with a thin flaky exterior these onion rings are best with a little salt and a mixture of 50% ketchup and 50% hot sauce.
Prior to Katrina, the only thing I had ever ordered from Liuzza's was the Roast Beef Po-Boy, dressed. Following the glorious re-opening of Liuzza's they were unable to make Roast Beef for a long while. Since everyone had to sacrifice something following the storm, I began eating the Panee Chicken Po-Boy. That sandwich is so good, when the roast beef returned for a while I would go half Roast Beef and Half Panee Chicken. Finally in a Eureka moment the two were combined (WARNING: IF YOU GET NAUSEOUS EASILY, LOOK AWAY). When you go today ask them to bring you a Panee Chicken Po-Boy topped with roast beef and gravy, dressed of course. If that last sentence made you recoil in horror,, I apologize; if however, it made you go that sounds awesome, welcome to the Fat Kid Special.
Other great meals there include any of their fried seafood, plate lunches, or Italian specialities. Also, they have an original po-boy (French Fries, gravy, mayo, and cheese) and delicious fried green tomatoes with a tangy remoulade. The only drawback is that Liuzza's only takes cash. However, there is an ATM in the jernt. Which is really what Liuzza's is a perfect model of, the neighborhood jernt.
Tuesday, March 25, 2008
For Lunch Today...
We noticed people love reading the blog, or at least visiting the blog, right around lunchtime. Blackened Out is pleased to introduce a new feature. Every few days, or more likely, whenever we remember, we will choose a place for workers in the CBD/New Orleans area to go for lunch. So be on the lookout for lunch ideas. Here are the criteria. If restaurant is outside of the general CBD/French Quarter/Warehouse District, it must be less than a 8 and a half minute drive from the Train Station. And Lunch must be served. We have strict standards at Blackened Out.
Also, if you have a recommendation for lunch we would love to hear about it. If so email us at blackenedout@gmail.com.
Also, if you have a recommendation for lunch we would love to hear about it. If so email us at blackenedout@gmail.com.
Wednesday, March 19, 2008
Restaurant August and Everything After
"Please I can't eat anymore. Seriously I am hurting and I want it to stop, just put me out of my misery," Lady said after course number 4. Unfortunately 5 courses remained. The glorious torture would continue.
Lady and I attended a James Beard Dinner at August in September with Donald Link and John Besh trading courses. Save that visit, we had never dined at August. That changed last night and not a moment to soon.
Having never indulged in the decadence and bacchanalian explosion that is August we summoned our hubristic tendencies and ordered the Degustation Menu. The waiter described it as a lot of food, if that description was accurate than George Washington was just a soldier.
9 courses, it ended up being more, each paired with a wine, we had our work cut out for us. Let's begin.
An amuse arrived. A delicate egg missing its top filled with a Seafood Sabayon and topped with a truffle foam. Sticking out of the egg cup (literally) was a brioche crouton. Delightful way to begin anything.
Then a Crab and Citrus Salad with a smattering of truffle oil. Segments of grapefruit burst in one's mouth cutting through the fattiness of the crab. Little globes of golden beats provided an earthiness to the dish.
Next up a plate of housemade pates. A wild boar pate with mushroom marmalade, a daube glace of rabbit, and a Berkshire pork rillette. All served with toasted brioche. We are beginning to pace ourselves. So it pained us to have to leave some food on the plate so to speak. All the pates were perfect, melting across one's palate and subtly reminding one of the taste of the animal which it came from.
Next a bowl, and I do mean bowl, of white asparagus soup with crabmeat and a meyer lemon foam. The stark white dish belied the woodsy taste of the white asparagus which played very well with the crabmeat. Then the meyer lemon foam cleared the palate for the next spoonful.
Now would be a good time to discuss portion sizes. We believed each portion would be minuscule and one or two bites at the most. We were sorely mistaken. The portions were gigantic. "Chef went to New York City last year and he said after every tasting menu he left hungry, so he doesnt want the same fate to befall his customers," our waiter Brendan said. How considerate.
Crawfish agnolotti ("priest hats" in Italian, well it is Lent) with bacon, peas and a jus. Each course keeps getting better and better. This one displayed the kitchen's ability to make and cook perfect little envelopes of pasta. I ate all of it especially the big fat lardon.
Sea bass with trumpet mushrooms and crab meat with fennel frond. Fish was cooked perfectly. I am not a huge fish person so I tasted and moved on; but Lady loved it.
Scallops over an herb risotto with a tarragon foam. This dish defies description. The risotto was quite simply amazing. Lady thought one of her scallops was a tad overcooked, but I did not have that problem.
Now the only glitch of the evening. A duck with foie gras and grits. Foie and grits were amazing, the duck neither of us cared for very much. The duck was rolled in a seasoning blend which tasted like one had bit into a Christmas Tree. Ohh, well one misstep is expected in a nine course tasting. I would rather have had just the Foie Gras and Grits. Foie grits could be the name of it.
Lamb three ways. A brilliant lamb loin wrapped in prosciutto to give it a crispy shell and succulent interior. Then a lamb chop with a mustard and herb glaze. And finally braised lamb shoulder. Each lamb preparation was thoughtful and well executed. My favorite course of the evening. I just wish I was not starting to wonder if I would make it out alive.
Cheese course. The name translated to Holy Cow in French. A creamy lightly caramelized wedge of cheese served with a balsamic reduction and a generous pile of Alan Benton's house made ham. Sorry to get scientific and food nerdy here, but Wow.
Finally, the dessert arrived. The server described it as a candy bar with a chocolate tuile. Only imagine the greatest chocolate candy bar you can, and that was this dessert, served with a generous glass of Frangelico.
Coffee and finally some mignardise. Two mini chocolate chip cookies and two almond cookies. Because we needed that.
The wines were superb. A sparkling Alsatian, a Riesling, and an Acaccia Pinot Noir were the high points, but each wine alternated between standing out and pairing nicely.
The dining room looks like it has been there forever: exposed brick, chandeliers, and woodwork. The service at Restaurant August knows no equal in New Orleans. Everyone from the hostess to the runners is knowledgeable, helpful, and courteous. Most noticeably absent is any hint of pretension. They are there to make your experience as comfortable, enjoyable, and pleasurable as possible. Despite a celebrity chef in the kitchen, at Restaurant August the focus is on the diner's ego. And that feels really good. The experience lasted over 3 hours and despite the pain of overindulging I could have stayed all night.
This is an expensive outing, but it is well worth it. The amount of food, wine, and attention one receives is well worth the price of admission. In fact it is a downright bargain. Restaurant August is the standard bearer of New Orleans food and service as far as I am concerned.
Lady and I attended a James Beard Dinner at August in September with Donald Link and John Besh trading courses. Save that visit, we had never dined at August. That changed last night and not a moment to soon.
Having never indulged in the decadence and bacchanalian explosion that is August we summoned our hubristic tendencies and ordered the Degustation Menu. The waiter described it as a lot of food, if that description was accurate than George Washington was just a soldier.
9 courses, it ended up being more, each paired with a wine, we had our work cut out for us. Let's begin.
An amuse arrived. A delicate egg missing its top filled with a Seafood Sabayon and topped with a truffle foam. Sticking out of the egg cup (literally) was a brioche crouton. Delightful way to begin anything.
Then a Crab and Citrus Salad with a smattering of truffle oil. Segments of grapefruit burst in one's mouth cutting through the fattiness of the crab. Little globes of golden beats provided an earthiness to the dish.
Next up a plate of housemade pates. A wild boar pate with mushroom marmalade, a daube glace of rabbit, and a Berkshire pork rillette. All served with toasted brioche. We are beginning to pace ourselves. So it pained us to have to leave some food on the plate so to speak. All the pates were perfect, melting across one's palate and subtly reminding one of the taste of the animal which it came from.
Next a bowl, and I do mean bowl, of white asparagus soup with crabmeat and a meyer lemon foam. The stark white dish belied the woodsy taste of the white asparagus which played very well with the crabmeat. Then the meyer lemon foam cleared the palate for the next spoonful.
Now would be a good time to discuss portion sizes. We believed each portion would be minuscule and one or two bites at the most. We were sorely mistaken. The portions were gigantic. "Chef went to New York City last year and he said after every tasting menu he left hungry, so he doesnt want the same fate to befall his customers," our waiter Brendan said. How considerate.
Crawfish agnolotti ("priest hats" in Italian, well it is Lent) with bacon, peas and a jus. Each course keeps getting better and better. This one displayed the kitchen's ability to make and cook perfect little envelopes of pasta. I ate all of it especially the big fat lardon.
Sea bass with trumpet mushrooms and crab meat with fennel frond. Fish was cooked perfectly. I am not a huge fish person so I tasted and moved on; but Lady loved it.
Scallops over an herb risotto with a tarragon foam. This dish defies description. The risotto was quite simply amazing. Lady thought one of her scallops was a tad overcooked, but I did not have that problem.
Now the only glitch of the evening. A duck with foie gras and grits. Foie and grits were amazing, the duck neither of us cared for very much. The duck was rolled in a seasoning blend which tasted like one had bit into a Christmas Tree. Ohh, well one misstep is expected in a nine course tasting. I would rather have had just the Foie Gras and Grits. Foie grits could be the name of it.
Lamb three ways. A brilliant lamb loin wrapped in prosciutto to give it a crispy shell and succulent interior. Then a lamb chop with a mustard and herb glaze. And finally braised lamb shoulder. Each lamb preparation was thoughtful and well executed. My favorite course of the evening. I just wish I was not starting to wonder if I would make it out alive.
Cheese course. The name translated to Holy Cow in French. A creamy lightly caramelized wedge of cheese served with a balsamic reduction and a generous pile of Alan Benton's house made ham. Sorry to get scientific and food nerdy here, but Wow.
Finally, the dessert arrived. The server described it as a candy bar with a chocolate tuile. Only imagine the greatest chocolate candy bar you can, and that was this dessert, served with a generous glass of Frangelico.
Coffee and finally some mignardise. Two mini chocolate chip cookies and two almond cookies. Because we needed that.
The wines were superb. A sparkling Alsatian, a Riesling, and an Acaccia Pinot Noir were the high points, but each wine alternated between standing out and pairing nicely.
The dining room looks like it has been there forever: exposed brick, chandeliers, and woodwork. The service at Restaurant August knows no equal in New Orleans. Everyone from the hostess to the runners is knowledgeable, helpful, and courteous. Most noticeably absent is any hint of pretension. They are there to make your experience as comfortable, enjoyable, and pleasurable as possible. Despite a celebrity chef in the kitchen, at Restaurant August the focus is on the diner's ego. And that feels really good. The experience lasted over 3 hours and despite the pain of overindulging I could have stayed all night.
This is an expensive outing, but it is well worth it. The amount of food, wine, and attention one receives is well worth the price of admission. In fact it is a downright bargain. Restaurant August is the standard bearer of New Orleans food and service as far as I am concerned.
Monday, March 17, 2008
Taste of the Town - Friday April 4th
Taste of the Town may be the best eating event in the city. Yes, I have been to a Grand Tasting during the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience, and if you disregard the obvious advantage of serving 1000 vintages at the Grand Tasting, I am telling you that the food is probably a little bit better at Taste of the Town.
Sidenote: Another excellent dining and drinking event is the Louisiana Restaurant Association's Expo in early August. Unfortunately for most of you, this event is only open to restaurateurs and food vendors. Fortunately for me, The Pope has graciously included his dear old friend when deciding whom to give his limited number of tickets to. I have been for the last 7 or 8 years, and each time I consume probably 3 pounds of smoked salmon and 2 dozen raw oysters while washing it down with whatever booze that Glazer or Republic is doling out. One infamous year, The Pope decided that we "needed" to go eat at Restaurant August after the event. This dinner resulted in 3 consecutive orders of the foie gras trio (after each time we finished the delectable appetizer, The Pope or I would exclaim to the waiter, "Uh, yeah, we are going to need another one of those") followed by The Pope's sister having to be picked up by her fiance before the entrees arrived because she was too inebriated to make it through the rest of the meal. But that is another story for another time...
Anyway, back to Taste of the Town. Just by scanning which restaurants are serving food (Arnaud's, Galatoire's, and Wolfe's in the Warehouse to name a few), you will soon realize that the $75 ticket pre-paid ticket price for the event is well worth it. The weather should be beautiful on that early April evening, and if past years are any indication, the food and drink will be phenomenal as well.
Sidenote: Another excellent dining and drinking event is the Louisiana Restaurant Association's Expo in early August. Unfortunately for most of you, this event is only open to restaurateurs and food vendors. Fortunately for me, The Pope has graciously included his dear old friend when deciding whom to give his limited number of tickets to. I have been for the last 7 or 8 years, and each time I consume probably 3 pounds of smoked salmon and 2 dozen raw oysters while washing it down with whatever booze that Glazer or Republic is doling out. One infamous year, The Pope decided that we "needed" to go eat at Restaurant August after the event. This dinner resulted in 3 consecutive orders of the foie gras trio (after each time we finished the delectable appetizer, The Pope or I would exclaim to the waiter, "Uh, yeah, we are going to need another one of those") followed by The Pope's sister having to be picked up by her fiance before the entrees arrived because she was too inebriated to make it through the rest of the meal. But that is another story for another time...
Anyway, back to Taste of the Town. Just by scanning which restaurants are serving food (Arnaud's, Galatoire's, and Wolfe's in the Warehouse to name a few), you will soon realize that the $75 ticket pre-paid ticket price for the event is well worth it. The weather should be beautiful on that early April evening, and if past years are any indication, the food and drink will be phenomenal as well.
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