Monday, April 19, 2010

In Search of Monday Lunch: Capdeville

Blogger's Note - Last week we received a piece of fan mail from a reader who explained his weekly struggle in finding a place to eat lunch on Monday with his coworkers. We empathize with his plight and find it likely that many of you often find yourselves in a similar situation. As men for others, your friends at Blackened Out attempt to tackle this problem with our new series: "In Search of Monday Lunch."

Capdeville is the latest project (and first foray into food service) for the Lifestyle Revolution Group. The name derives from the location - sitting in the middle of the one block side street running from Camp to Magazine just behind the US Fifth Circuit Court of Appeals. Incidentally, the street was named after a former mayor of New Orleans. For you legal historians out there, the restaurant is actually located in the space which used to be McGlinchey Stafford's cafeteria.

Capdeville is labeled as "an American interpretation of a British social house." What this connotes to me is a place where one would be as comfortable having a bite for lunch as he would downing a pint after work, and having done both, I can attest to the accuracy of the description. Even if a few lunch beers are not on your Monday agenda, Capdeville is still a good place for a bite. The menu stretches beyond typical pub grub with some innovative originals, like fried red beans and rice. These savory calas have a crunchy exterior coating stuffed with creamy red beans, while the truffled mac and cheese is in the style of carbonara and fortified with edamame

But after 3 visits, the burgers have clearly distinguished themselves as the best choices on the menu, with each component of the utmost quality. The burgers are so good that Willy Wonka, my office's resident gourmand de ground beef, has dubbed it one of the city's best. The foundation is a beef patty which is moist and flavorful without being greasy, and the soft onion roll is a noticeable improvement from the typical styrofoam bun. The namesake Capdeville Burger (pictured above) tastes almost as good as it looks. An orthodox au poivre sauce, gruyere cheese and roasted aioli provide richness; bibb lettuce and thin strands of crispy fried onions give the burger a nice crunch. The Manchego La Mancha has a nice fruitiness from green tomato jam and proves that almost any dish improves with the addition of a gratuitous fried egg.

French fries are taken to new heights with variations from Spain (manchego and chorizo) to Canada (mozzarella curd and au poire sauce), but unfortunately the former are a bit too dry and the latter too soggy. Still, there is no denying the deliciousness of Capdeville's long, thin, crispy, handcut fries - especially with a side of roasted garlic aioli for dipping.

Not a bad way to start the week off on a full stomach.


I'maNolaGirl said...

Is it lunchtime yet? This sounds amazing!

Anonymous said...

can we refrain from using the "m"(oist) word, Petey? Thanks!

C said...

Sounds like the food is better than the drink. I ordered a gin martini, up with olives, and got something between a blank and a quizzical stare in return. Bartender picked up a highball glass, and asked, 'In one of these?'

I'll stick with a beer, and order that burger next time.

Is it sauce au poire (pear?) or au poivre (pepper)?