On The Line and Some Porkographic Announcements

Santa brought your bloggist in residence a bunch of food related goodies. But not On the Line, by Eric Ripert and Christine Muhlke; that one Old St. Visa had to drop down the chimney. This kitchen table book* chronicles the day to day challenges faced by a restaurant with 3 Michelin Stars, 4 Stars from the New York Time, and likely an Eagle from this outfit should we ever review them.

Le Bernardin began when Maguy and Gilbert Le Coze decided to open a version of their highly successful Parisian prandial palace in New York. Eric Ripert came on board in 1991 and since then Eric and Miss Le Coze (Gilbert passed away in the mid 90s) have made Le Bernardin an icon. Le Bernardin has had a two plus decade adventure as one of the finest restaurants in New York, if not America, if not the entire wormhole that is the Milky Way Galaxy.

After reading this book, it becomes clear that running such a successful restaurant requires a level of organization, training, cooking, and (truth be told) mind reading that the average restaurateur lacks. To anticipate the requests of a diner before he makes them, to pull out a lady's chair before she gets up, to keep an eye on the temperature outside as an indicator of what to serve, etc... That is talent.

The thing I found to be most interesting were the lists and "By the Numbers" sections which chronicle everything from the amount of tuna prepared weekly to the monthly florist bill. Also, did you know that of the four Captains at Le Bernardin, two began their careers as dish washers? I did after reading this book.

Beautiful photos abound in this easy to read tome. Quotes, stories, and anecdotes pepper the pages and keep the story moving. Plus, a section of recipes you will never try. One memorable bit discusses how for several months a regular patron came in 4 times a week with a party of ten and requested a completely different tasting menu each meal. That my friends is L-I-V-I-N-G.

If you like behind the scenes chronicles of restaurant life, or really behind the scenes chronicles of anything, this would be a good book to purchase and add to your repertoire. Plus, if you have ever heard Eric Ripert talk, you can read the whole book in his unique brand of Franglish.**

Pork is proof that there is a God. As proof of this proof, Cochon Butcher and Boucherie will battle it out for new restaurant/foodie palace of the year for 2009. I have it on very good authority that Cochon Butcher will hopefully open on January 20th. And Boucherie will begin dinner service on January 13th. You should go to both.

*I just invented this term. Its mine, you cant have it.
** This one also.