Monday, January 12, 2009

Adventures in Economicalness

This year I hope to be more economical. Not cheap, thrifty, or frugal nor miserly. But economical. Which for me means being smarter with how I cook things. I got the ball rolling by ordering a copy of Charcuterie by Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn. Also for Christmas, Lindsay got me this bad ass meat grinder and sausage stuffer which pairs nicely with this book. I purchased two whole ducks from Whole Foods and had them break the ducks down for me. The bounty from this would provide me with enough legs, breasts, carcasses and fat to do all sorts of learning. Some of which is pictured below.

I reserved one whole breast for later that night to cook. The other breast went into a pyrex with some kosher salt. More kosher salt on top, and into the fridge over night.
I roasted the two duck carcasses and wings for about an hour and added it to some onion, carrot, celery, black peppercorns, leeks, parsley, and a bay leaf to make a duck stock. This simmered on the stove at a low temperatrue for around 3 hours. Strain, cool, and refrigerate.

The duck legs seasoned with koser salt, garlic, black peppercorns, cloves and bay leafs await their sleepover in the fridge.
The next morning I removed the duck breasts from their kosher salt coffin, rinsed them, patted them dry, wrapped them in cheesecloth. Here they are hanging in my basement. Gus and Penny have spent the last few days trying to jump up and eat my duck prosciutto. So far they have been unsuccessful.
After a night in the fridge, the duck legs were also rinsed and placed in a casserole dish. Then one pours enough rendered duck fat to cover them. The duck legs cooked for ten hours in a 180 degree oven until the fat was clear. They then cooled in this container and voila, duck confit.
One night I broiled the duck confit until the skin got very crispy. Placed on top of an arugula salad dressed lightly with salt, pepper, olive oil and lemon, the ducks fattiness was matched by the acidic peppery bite of the salad. Plus, shaved parmesan never hurts.
A few nights later, I cooked the remaining two confited duck legs. This time however, I blanched some cubed potatoes and then fried them in the duck fat. They tasted like perfection. Here are the potatoes in the world's most perfect hot tub.
And here is the finished dish. Duck Confit with a pepper jelly butter emulsion over duck fat fried brabant potatoes with garlic and parsley. Could have used a little aioli for the potatoes, but other than that. Very good.

The duck cost me $28.56 at Whole Foods. Plus another $12 for some duck fat from Langensteins. With the salt and other ingredients lets call it $60. From this I got 10 cups of duck stock (I used some of that stock to make collards recently), two whole meals from the confit, another meal from the reserved breasts, two duck prosciuttos, a quart or so of duck fat (which I am still frying in) and a weekend well-spent.

Read the above again, none of this was hard, little to no special tools or mastery of French is required. Sure it took a while to do all this, but one day every few weeks to spend in your kitchen is a small price to pay for good food. I would say so far being economical tastes delicious.

7 comments:

Frolic said...

Not hard, you say? You skipped over that step of digging a basement. I mean, who the hell has a basement in New Orleans?

Rene said...

Well in lieu of a basement, I am told by Ruhlman's website you can actually leave it out on a kitchen counter as the temperature will never go over room temperature. Or you could dig out that old beer fridge from college and put it on its lowest setting.

Or I will lease you some space in my basement to hang cured meats.

Frolic said...

What temperature does it need to be? Perhaps my little wine chiller could be called into use.

Rene said...

Anything under around 78 degrees is ok. It should not be colder than around 50 or else it takes longer.

Rene said...

http://blog.ruhlman.com/ scroll down to entry entitled Salt!

Anonymous said...

It IS really economical, if you skip those overpriced WF ducks and get 'em from Hong Kong Market. Heads, tongues, feet--HKM has all the bargain-priced whole ducks & parts you could ever desire.

Rene said...

That is a great idea, Celeste. I am sure they come in much cheaper than $7 a pound. And this way I could get enough liver to make a pate. Now if only I could grow my own ducks for foie.