Camellia Grill

Camellia Grill, that much loved institution on Carrollton, turns out one of the better burgers in the city. The quarter inch thick patties certainly benefit immensely from their stay on the decades old griddle and its coating of bacon grease. Always order a cheeseburger dressed with grilled onions. Sometimes add bacon, but only when your diet isn't very demanding.

And here is a tip - the magic time to go before the morning rush. If you go after 9:30 you are doomed to wait, but earlier the hungover college kids and sleepy headed uptowners have yet to emerge from their cocoons. The last time we were in there, Lindsay got all excited by the "mac n' cheese bites" and had to have them. They were not good; just fried disks of imitation dairy. But after that brush with mediocrity, we had hankering for the real deal mac and cheese.

So I combed through some cookbooks and coddled this creation together. What you will like is that the richness of the sauce is tempered by the heat of the cayenne and mustard. Adding some hot sauce (especially Valentina) when you mix the pasta and the mornay (more on this latter) will only make this dish better.

If you want to learn how to make three quick cooking techniques, mac and cheese is a good tutor. A roux becomes a bechamel which begets a mornay. To begin, warm a quart of milk over low heat.

In a heavy bottomed pot, melt one stick of butter. When melted but not brown, add 1/4 cup of flour. This is the roux. Keep the heat low and stir for about two minutes. Then pour the warmed milk into the blond roux and whisk. When fully mixed (this is now called a bechamel), add a good pinch of salt, 8 grinds of black pepper, a teaspoon of cayenne, and a teaspoon of ground mustard. Stir and then add in 2 cups of shredded cheese, about one handful at a time.

Aside: Ok, you have gone to all this trouble, do not use some pre-shredded garbage that came in a plastic pouch with a resealable zipper that always breaks. Get some nice white or yellow cheddar, maybe some fontina, some provolone, shoot even blue cheese will work. A combination of cheeses is a winner as well.

Once the sauce thickens and cheese has fully melted (this is now a mornay sauce), add in one package of cooked pasta of your choice. Something small, like elbow macaroni (classic), shells (elitist), or bowties (whimsical?). Stir some more and pour into a buttered casserole dish or individual ramekins. Top with breadcrumbs, more cheese if you want, and some small chunks of butter.

Bake at 375 degrees until bubbly and brown. Can also be made ahead of time, then just bake off when ready.

Perfect for those who think diets are for quitters and Donnie Boy Riguez. Ooops, sorry to be redundant.