Behind This Door...

... is another world far, far away from the Uptown street on which it lies. No sign, no valet, no uncovered windows to peak through. Unless you're a Newman mom picking up your son from football practice, you're not going to find Gautreau's if you are not actively searching for it. Instead, you are likely to just drive on by, unaware of the fantastic food being served inside of this old pharmacy.

On the whole, the dining room is most often described as a "jewel box." The main dining room on the ground floor holds less than 100 seats, but the mirrored columns and tall ceilings contrive more space than is actually there. Trompe-l'œil creates curtains from beige tinged walls. You walk through the dining room to reach the bar in the back, whose lively atmosphere usually resonates off the pressed tin ceilings.

While the dining room is full of illusion, deception is undeniably absent from the menu. Descriptions of dishes read relatively straightforward, but what comes forth from the kitchen can only be described as "excellence in simplicity." Same goes for the number of dishes on the menu, which is short yet nothing seems to be missing. One would think it would be easy to choose from a list of 5 appetizers and 7 entrees, but that was hardly my experience.

In the appetizer section, crisp pork belly is augmented by a ying and yang duo of sweet roasted peaches and tart pickled onions. You can find crabmeat and gnocchi on a number of menus around town, but Gautreau's version is lighter than others while still retaining its richness in a sauce of parmesan cream, English peas, and chanterelle mushrooms. Meaty scallops are delicious in their own right, but that show was stolen by the bacon and corn relish on top and spicy beurre blanc underneath.

In the entree section, a peppery saute of chorizo and clams served as a base for a crisp filet of fresh snapper, the spicy renderings of the chorizo flavored each bite of swiss chard next door. The Folk Singer is no vegetarian, but the pergoies stuffed with wild mushrooms brought her one step closer to conversion. We were too full for dessert.

Gautreau's is a special place - from the hidden location and unique interior down to the amazing cuisine. Crossing the threshold of the doorway is akin to entering your own private club, but yet you wonder how everyone else knew to come here? People seem to find great food no matter what the location. As Rene says, "Here's to hoping it stays a secret."

Gautreau's - Eagle