By Da Track

When someone asks, "You wanna go to Liuzza's for lunch?", I always answer that question with a question of my own: "On Bienville or By the Track?" No matter what the response though, I usually say yes.

Liuzza's By the Track is best known for four specialties: Gumbo, BBQ Shrimp Po-Boy, Garlic Oyster Po-Boy, and the Breathtaking Beef. On a recent lunch with Rene and Big Brutal Dave, we ordered all of the above.

1. Gumbo - With a foundation handed down from owner Billy Gruber's mother, plus a few influences from Paul Prudhomme, this creole version includes oysters, shrimp, chicken, and andouille (but not okra). For an interesting read on the history and method behind this gumbo, check out this interview of Mr. Gruber by Amy Evans of the Southern Foodway Alliance.
2. BBQ Shrimp Po-Boy - Hands down the best dish on the table. A hollowed-out pistolette is overflowing with shrimp swimming in a sauce comprised of "all the butter in the world and half the black pepper."
3. Garlic Oyster Po-Boy - The crunchy fried oysters slathered in garlic butter were tasty but few in number.
4. Breathtaking Beef - Dry roast beef and horseradish mayo which lacked a potent punch made for a disappointing bogey.

If the specials board advertises fried eggplant, these light and crisp batons dusted with powdered sugar are an excellent way to start a meal. The cramped tables and no frills service are indicative of the dive bar ambience, as is the cadre of regulars usually perched at the bar. If the ponies are running (like they will be today), it's best to place the daily double before the lunch rush and then check the tote board on your way back to work.

Liuzza's By the Track - Par