Small Plates

Call it whatever you want - tapas, dim sum, or a "mini" tasting menu - but small plates have become most everyone's favorite way to dine. The concept has been around for some time but under the elusive label of "appetizers." While many restaurants are employing this form, not all execute the idea particularly well.

Cochon Butcher does. In fact, the bar food menu at the Swine Bar might even be better than the one offered by its big brother next door, but that's a debate for another time. Unquestionably, the prices at Butcher are cheaper - nearly every plate has a $6 price tag. The most popular item may be the bacon and onion pizzetta with a creamy base of (I think) boursin cheese.

Hummus goes coonass with the substitution of blackeyed peas for chickpeas. The result is a much thicker puree than the traditional, but no less tasty. The spread is served hot, which allows the pool of olive oil on top to give off a nice aroma. Crostini provide a nice crunch as the vehicle for delivery.

The small plate menu typically includes 4 or 5 daily specials, one of which is usually a twist on macaroni and cheese. The specimen above was studded with bits of ham, but a truffle version is sometimes available. Not pictured but worth ordering is the venison sausage sliced atop a steaming pile of choucroute.

Truthfully, it's tough to go wrong no matter what you order.