The Perfect Lunch

A well-timed, relaxing Saturday lunch is one of life's great pleasures. There is no office to get back to and no phone calls to return. Nothing but the prospect of a nap or maybe a little work in the yard lays before you. Unfortunately, many restaurants need the extra time during Saturday to prepare for their busiest night, so many places close for Saturday lunch.

But not St. James. Don't head to St. James at noon for lunch, wait til one o'clock or later. The crowds will be smaller and you can guarantee a seat on the small porch (which is preferable to the larger but sun-blocked patio). While your food is prepared, you may want to start with a beer.

The name says it all. An aggressive, gripping ale that will make you grow hair on the back of your neck. If you still need a night light and a teddy bear to fall asleep, order something else.

The sandwich artists at St. James construct masterpieces worthy of hanging at NOMA. Unfortunately, bread has been in a Tiger Woods self-imposed exile from our diets since Mardi Gras. But once Lent ends, the Smoky Blue and Mozzarella better prepare to be destroyed.

No worries, the Parmesan Reggiano Salad makes a sandwich look like a chump hiding behind his mother's apron. Thin slices of salami, tender marinated artichokes, buttery black olives, and pine nuts hold down mixed lettuces with authority. The sprinkling of salty Parmesan neither distracts nor gets lost in the shuffle. Caution: the last bite of this salad may cause a fight to break out at your table.

Standing with the charcuterie board stood a freshly sliced baguette from La Boulangerie calling out for attention. We ignored it. Instead using fingers and forks to direct the the capicola, braesola, prosciutto, rillettes, salami, cornichons, and sharp cheese into our mouths. The rillettes had a strong, but pleasant, flavor of cloves and allspice. The braesola, covered in a crust of black pepper, made an impressive foil for the sharp mustard. By the end of the meal, only the bread remained.

St. James is not the cheapest lunch in town. Two beers (one extra large), a salad, and the charcuterie plate will set you back about $40. It is however, my definition, of a perfect lunch.

St. James Cheese Co. - Eagle