Lilette

John Harris has once again been nominated for a James Beard Award, and the food coming out of his kitchen deserves all the accolades, Grammys, and honors one can bestow. The service, however, needs a serious kick in the ass.

The interior of Lilette presents one of the most charming restaurants in New Orleans. Big, plate glass windows surround cozy white booths and intimate tables. There is a bar along the back wall which looks right out of an ad for the finer things in life.

Upon sitting we ordered a bottle of Rene Barth 2007 Pinot Gris, a wonderful easy drinking white with a touch of sweetness. We also tried to order a half-dozen Kumamoto oysters to nibble on as we perused the menu. "No, sorry. You have to order everything... all food at once," was the answer we received. ("What about dessert?" was the smart ass remark I withheld).

Eventually we were allowed to order the oysters. And when they arrived, they were worth their wait in scold. These tiny, jewels of the ocean exploded with minerality and the taste of the icy seas.

Choosing from the menu at Lilette will prove daunting. Do you go with the duck confit or escargots in Calvados cream? The truffle toast or the raw fish? The pork belly or the bouillabaisse? My best answer for you is to go with a group and try everything.

We started with the boudin noir and chicken soup. The boudin noir arrived wrapped in a crisp shell, while inside the pudding-like meat exploded with flavor. Lindsay stole most of the cornichons, but they along with the mustard provided a wonderful balance to the richness of the sausage.

Lindsay's chicken soup went in an entirely different direction. The broth had the lusty body of a supermodel. Under the surface of the soup floated a delicately poached egg, the yolk of which burst from the whites to mingle and thicken the soup. Just a delicious, soulful bite of food, and an intelligent take on chicken noodle soup.

"Could you please leave the wine out, it is getting a little cold," I asked nicely.

"Why? There is barely anything left," the waiter dismissed.

Ok, then.

Onto the mains. Lindsay was very pleased with the Hawaiian spearfish with braised escarole and sunchoke puree. But no bite of food, I have had in the last twelve months compared with the pork belly dish. Tender, salted cubes of pork belly nestled alongside bright, juicy cubes of melon, slivers of onion, mint, and baby arugula. If you go to Lilette, this dish needs to be ordered.

Complaining about service is not something I like to do, and the two above passages may not seem like much (and in the grand scheme of things are not). But snooty service really chaps my ass. I don't snap fingers, yell at waiters, or tip poorly. I am not asking for you to address me as sir. I appreciate how hard you work. So please quit acting like you are doing me a favor, or else I can and will take my business elsewhere.

Can you tell I should let it go?

Lilette - So close to Eagle, but Birdie.