Wednesday, September 8, 2010

2010 Challenge: Tartine

While checking out Tartine for our offBEAT piece, I kept coming back to the black eye pea salad served alongside the namesake quasi-sandwiches. The salad was earthy yes, but also had some zing to it. The goal was to recreate that salad by blanching some peas, combining them with a racy dressing, a dice of jalapeno and some roasted red pepper. In order to replicate the dish, the peas needed to be al dente to provide a certain substance to the salad.

But things went awry. While the peas simmered, I decided to clean my car. What? It had been about 18 months since the last time that happened. By the time that wrapped up, the peas had overcooked and were rapidly turning to mush. No worries, I know an Eagle scout.

Tea Brined Pork Smoked Pork Chop with Summer Squash Salad and Black Eye Pea Hummus

Pork Chop

Look here. Except instead of grilling, I smoked the pork chop and then seared it on a cast iron skillet, Southern sous vide style. On top of the pork chop is a little relish of roasted red pepper and shallot. Besides salt and pepper, a dash of red wine vinegar finishes it.

Squash Salad

Thinly slice one yellow squash, one zucchini, and one shallot. Over this pour a health dose of red wine vinegar, 5 cranks of black pepper, dried oregano, and a pinch of salt. Stir to combine. Right before serving, add goat cheese (I had a honeyed in the house, use whatever you like).

Black Eye Pea Hummus

In a large pot, combine one package of black eye peas (Camellia Brand) with a quartered onion, two or three smashed garlic cloves, a bay leaf, salt and pepper. Bring this to a low boil, and let cook until the water is murky and the beans are tender.

In a food processor or mixing bowl fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the beans (remove the bay, onion, and garlic), a 1/4 cup of the cooking liquid (or chicken stock or water) and the juice of half a lemon. On a low setting mix and blend the beans into a paste. If it looks dry add more water. Once you have a good paste, with the motor running, drizzle in a quarter cup of sesame oil or olive oil. Taste, adjust for seasonings (will likely need more salt).

And while we got your attention, check out this week's Table Talk with Lorin Gaudin. We are talking about Rare Cuts, Fat Hen, Horinoya, Vom Fass, and more.


Celeste said...

Try using frozen blackeyes rather than fresh or dried when you're shooting for al dente. Freezing toughens up the skin a little, and you can cook the peas to a tender-inside texture without them losing their shape. I think the Tartine peas have a little red wine or champagne vinegar...

Rene said...

Thanks for the suggestion on the frozen peas. I agree with you that the pea salad has a shot of acidity. Which, I have noticed, as a cook more and more it is acid (and also salt) which is crucial to properly seasoned foods.

Donnie Boy Riguez said...

P&G has peas on the side daily for any of their plate lunches. Respect.