Dear Santa

Santa,
I have chosen to write to you now for much the same reason I give wedding presents a year late. 1) I figure no one is writing you now, so a letter from me would be most appreciated and remembered more than the loads of letters you get near Christmas 2) I like to give you time to relax after such a stressful season before reminding you of the next one 3) the pressure of picking out a gift is much less when the deadline has already been missed.

Plus with everyone giving all this attention to this Patrick, Saint dude, I figured you were lonely and drunk. Which has always been a good time for me to get things I wanted. The iron is hot and I am striking.

Listen, I only desire one thing for Christmas this year. Its a little strange, but easily one of the sexiest things I have seen in a while. Look here. Is that not the coolest thing you have ever seen? Well besides Earth from the seat of a reindeer powered shuttle as you hurtle through space.

Granted, installation may be difficult in New Orleans, but I would gladly give up a bathroom for a wine cellar with a hidden door! Just think of the exercise I could get walking up and down those steps to select intoxicating bottles of pleasure. And the party tricks would never end. Section 123 Saints Fan sent it to me, and he knows a thing or two about the price of tea in China.

In other wine news, please send me a case of 2007 Alfredo Roca Pinot Noirs. Just when Pinots were approaching the same boring status Chardonnay held 5 years ago, this one came along and impressed me. Seven out of ten Pinots surveyed for this article were cloying, uninspired fruit bombs that tasted like cabernets in drag.

Made in Argentina in a Burgundian style, the nose is floral and violets, the taste elegant, and the finish durable. None of that Coca-Cola syrup infected, Penny Noir from California, this wine goes equally well with grilled turkey breasts or just casual back porch sipping. And at around $12 a bottle, a damn fine value. Available at Cork & Bottle and other fine purveyors.

Thanks Santa and remember, Asalamalakum.

P.S. I think a lot of people will ask you for Hogs for the Cause T-Shirts this year. If so, you can find them here.

Wolfe's

Friday night, long week. Vietnamese, Pizza, or ___? We could not figure out what we wanted. You know the feeling. Then, how about Wolfe's on Dumaine and Rampart. Imposing yet welcoming space, gorgeous bar. Tall columns and impressive windows, banquette running the length of one wall. Begin meal with an absinthe and vodka tonic at the bar and some chitter chatter with Chef Wolfe, settled in.

The menu is divided into appetizers, medium plates, and entrees. Since we were two and only two, we decided to just bounce around the menu and sample. But first let's discuss Chef Wolfe. Tom Wolfe grew up working as Emeril's sous chef for almost a decade. The man knows food and restaurants. The original Wolfe's was on the lakefront. Other restaurants followed and now he has renamed Peristyle, Wolfe's got it? An honest, hardworking man, Chef Wolfe makes each guest feel welcome. He loves talking food, drinking, and hearing stories about the Pope. Naturally we hit it off.

I am not a big fish fan, the food not the band. So the amuse bouche of strawberry cured salmon, creme fraiche and caviar tested my nerves. However, I found myself really enjoying it. The oily density of the salmon was muted by the delightful citrus cure of the strawberry. The creme fraiche, caviar, and Maras Farms sprouts salad added some textural and palate cleansing properties. All photos by Lindsay.

Next up was probably our favorite dish of the night, Sweetbreads. Big chunks of tender glands, cooked perfectly with cubes of potatoes and demi glace. More often then not you find small sweetbreads with more breading than sweetbreading. Not here.

Seared Grade "A" Foie Gras with a berry compote and toast points. Delicious. Now I would have liked to maybe see the berries pureed into more of a sauce, Lindsay liked it the way it was. In talking to Chef Wolfe abou it, I brought this up. His response, "it said compote on the menu, not sauce." Touche. Notice the artistry of restraint in this photo.
Duck rillette salad with radishes and balsalmic glaze. Beautiful plate, the rillette was a little salty, but then again it is rillette. The little rounds of french bread were topped with just scared by the heat brie.
Crabmeat, horseradish mayo, and beet salad with drizzles of olive oil. Classic flavors right there. And it gave me an idea for a dish to try at home once summer comes. Always a good thing to have happen. The salad on top is fennel fronds, some chervil, and parsley.

Ohh and they paired each course with a glass of wine. Which was pretty bad ass. I think they knew I knew Peter. We got drunk. Last course was steak tartare with a fried quail egg, capers, hard boiled egg, parsley, and red onion. I love steak tartare. And what we did not finish, I had them wrap up to put in an omelet the next morning. But of course I forgot it.
The tartare was paired with a complex, earthy Burgundy. We ended up drinking a whole bottle.
Dessert was a cheese course and a green apple and taragon sorbet. The former was served at the proper temperature and the later used herbs deftly to cut through the sweetness of the green apple. After dinner, we sat at the bar drank some Grand Marnier and Nocello and swapped stories with Chef Wolfe and his staff till almost two in the morning, which is one reason why my writing sucks today. The bill for us came to about $80 a person with tax and tip. The night, however, was priceless.

So next time you are wondering where to eat, give Wolfe's a try. Peter and I agree that Chef Wolfe is the most underrated chef in New Orleans. Chef Wolfe will be there cooking your food and giving you the same service given to us, I promise you that.

Sushi Scandal

Yesterday Fr. Tom listed his Top 10 sushi bars in the area, and I was pretty shocked a few of my favorite were completely absent from the list. He makes a good point though: the sushi bar that you visit most regularly will be the best place for you. While I agree with this statement, I still believe that some sushi bars serve better sushi no matter who walks in the door. Anyway, without further ado, here are my "Best Sushi Places Left Off of Fr. Tom's List":

1. Kyoto - Some people might claim that this place is always packed only because of the Uptown allure. I disagree. Plus, the Sarah Roll is my favorite sushi roll in the city.
2. Kanno - I think that Robert Peyton is in love with Chef Hide (not that there's anything wrong with that). Just walk in, sit at the bar, and tell Hide that you want the "feed me" or "omakase." If you don't like a certain species of fish, he is usually happy to work around your specific tastes.
3. Sushi Bros - The Folk Singer would buy stock in this place if she could. Their lunch specials are a steal, and I find that the rolls are always bulging with fresh fish.

Note - Fr. Tom also left off Hana, but it's not one of my favorites.

Mid-City Mexican

I have wanted to try Taqueria Guerrero Mexico for a while, but I could never convince anyone to go with me. Luckily, I caught The Folk Singer in an inebriated and hunger-stricken state on a recent evening, and the lure of freshly made Mexican was enough to push her to explore the unknown.

The ambience is minimal and a tad cheesy in a Mexican bordertown kind of way. Thankfully, during college I spent many a night in cheesy Mexican bordertown joints, so I felt right at home.* After complimentary chips and a duo of salsas, our entrees were quickly delivered.

Buried under that pile of lettuce and drizzle of sour cream were 6 freshly rolled chicken enchiladas in a traditional mole sauce. The mole tasted - and I could not come up with another word other than - "deep" but with no acidity whatsoever and minimal spice. There was no strong chocolate flavor either. Not that the sauce was bad, just not really vibrant or what I expected.

This trifecta of tacos cost all of $6, and I am not joking when I say there was close to 1/4lb of meat on each. As at most of the local authentic Latino eateries around town, you get your choice of a variety of meats. I had tongue, beef, and pork (they were out of chicharrón unfortunately). The tacos are simply dressed with a few onions and cilantro, but they also had the added bonus of being served on not one but TWO corn tortillas. So instead of 3 tacos chock full of meat, you could make 6 tacos which are easier eat.

Taqeuria Guerrero Mexico - Birdie.

*Maybe one day we will organize a BlackenedOut field trip to Ciudad Acuña to eat at Ma Crosby's and drink at the Corona Club. If we could only figure out a way to keep Legend away from the donkey show.

Steins Deli

In college, I developed some serious vices, not the least of which was being a lard ass. I did the Freshmen Fifteen about 5 times too many. Mostly this was do to poor eating habits, a lack of exercise, Nat Light, and quitting smoking. The rest of the weight came from Cheese Steaks.

I went to school in rural Virginia near the confluence of two major interstate systems (I-81 and I-64). Yet despite this, there were no less than 4 Italian Sub/Pizza/Obesity Dens, all run by Italians who drive Hummers. You do the English.

My favorite Cheese Steaks came from Frank's. I liked to add Mayo, Green Peps, Onions, and Lettuce (for the health benefits). Frank's was within walking distance of the fraternity house, not that we ever tested that theory though. I would say conservatively in 4 years of college I ate close to 250 Cheese Steaks. One time, I ate two in one hour, which led to me almost a) dying b) accepting a bet for $500 that I couldn't eat 20 cheese steaks in 5 days. It was so bad Oprah called me fat.

So imagine my delight in going to Stein's the other day and seeing that the Tuesday special was a Philly Cheese Steak. I had to restrain my inner fat from ordering two! And this Philly was so good, it brought me back to Bush's first term. An Italian roll, more squishy than our french bread, thin sliced rib eye grilled to perfection, Cheez-wiz (authentic and god dammit its good), onions and green peppers. Grease/juice/cheez/angel dust ooze out and drip all over like culinary napalm, so be careful.
Lindsay got the Southern Animal Foundation because she likes to save animals by eating animals. She also likes bacon, provolone, avocado, and turkey. The S.A.F. also has some strips of cucumber which help to lighten up the fattiness of the bacon and avocado.
We also split some Matzo Ball Soup, which we fight over every time. The stock makes it. Full of flavor but with very little greasiness to it. Why is this picture so bad? Because I said so, that's why.

The seating can be a bit awkward in Stein's as people fight to claim the few spaces. But don't let that stop you. Its one hell of a good deli. Steins is on Magazine and Jackson. Also, Dan Stein is one of New Orleans's foremost authorities on beer. In fact, he, Dan Esses, and the visionaries at St. James are hosting a beer dinner on March 26th. Info available here.

NOLA Brewing

On Saturday, I stopped by Cork & Bottle to pick up a case of wine. While waiting in line, and over hearing some old lady's recipe for Vodka soaked anchovies, I noticed two NOLA Brewing offerings begging me to taste. In an impulse I got a pint of the Blonde Ale. A great beer. Perfect for this environment, crisp, refreshing, with a light body and hints of citrus.

Currently the beer is only offered on tap, but if you see drink it. Support local industry, drink better beer. Find it here:

45 TCHOUP at 4529 TCHOUPITOULAS ST
AVENUE PUB at 1732 ST CHARLES AVE
BULL DOG MID CITY at 5135 CANAL BLVD
CALYPSO PATIO BAR & GRILL at 326 LEE LANE
CORK & BOTTLE FINE WINES at 3700 ORLEANS AVENUE
FOX & HOUND ENGLISH PUB/GRILL at 1200 S CLEARVIEW PKWY
LAGERS INTERNATIONAL ALE HOUSE at 3501 VETERANS BLVD
SLICE PIZZERIA at 1513 ST CHARLES AVENUE
SPORTS BEAT PUB at 3330 RIDGELAKE DR
TACK ROOM BAR & GRIL at 2401 VETERANS BLVD
Mrs. MAE'S at 4336 MAGAZINE ST

Mona's

Mona's holds a special place in my heart because it was my first true "ethnic" dining experience. Actually, as my parents tell the story, the first time they took me to Mona's on Banks Street I said, "This stuff looks like baby food. I'm not eating this crap." But I quickly matured into the open-minded foodie before you, and Lebanese food became an obsession of mine during high school. It got so bad that when my brother and I would call in our takeout order we did not even have to give a name.

Gyro, hummus, baba ganoush - Mona's does all of these classics well and for cheap. I usually go with the Mona's Special Appetizer, which the menu notes is "for 2" but I have never been one to subscribe to such suggestions. This sampler platter contains no meat save for the lone fried kibby, but it does include that wondrously thick yogurt dip known as lebna. I believe that I can trace my 20lb sophomore year weight gain to that tangy sauce flavored with mint. Those khaki uniforms were a little tight during Algebra II .

Soup and Broccoli for Lent

This soup was inspired by a soup served at both Stella! and Vizard's. If you omit the pork in both the soup and the broccoli, you have quite the Friday Lenten feast. Or if your palate is not constrained by the dictum of a global religious empire, than prepare as directed.

Take one butternut squash, half lengthwise. Scoop out seeds. Salt, pepper, olive oil. Place flesh side down on a baking sheet. Roast at 375 degrees for about 45 minutes or until flesh is soft. Scoop out flesh, place in blender, add warm water, or maybe some warmed cream; perhaps a nose of sweet butter. And puree until smooth. Taste, adjust seasonings. Place bread in oven.

Ladle into a warmed bowl, top with bacon, a drizzle of cream, parsley or chive, and a few splashes of cilantro oil. You can do this. Ohh, you don't have any cilantro oil? You Plebe!
Now at Stella! (their exclamation, not mine) they serve a version of this soup not only with bacon but with droplets of bittersweet chocolate. At Vizard's the soup is served in a shot glass. At Casa Blackened Out we serve this soup with some broccoli roasted with bacon, garlic, chili flakes, hot bread, and guilt. As Catholics, no meal is complete without the daily dose of guilt.
And since bacon is not from a hoofed animal, a vegetarian delight! That's right bacon is only found at the end of rainbows, so its safe for Lent, vegetarians, people of Hebrew faith, and your local Flat Earther.

Shameless Self Promotion

In month's issue of offBeat, we reviewed Galley Seafood which, as you can see from the picture above, knows how to boil them some seafood. I cannot even begin to describe how ginormous those shrimp were - we're talking like U8s. Which is about the size you should expect at the steep price of $13.99/lb. But the shrimp along with the crawfish were damn good. I guess if you want to eat in Old Metairie, then you need to be able to afford to live there as well.

'

Also in the March issue is Rene's piece on Cochon Butcher (scroll down to "The Missing Link") where he has some words with Donald Link. So apparently they invited us to the Grand Opening for a reason other than having a good time. Who knew?

Grilled Lamb Chops

Roaming around Dorignac's on Sunday, we were contemplating what to cook for the week. Grabbed some veggies, some fingerling potatoes, and some other gear. Chicken, ehh. Pork, wasn't grabbing our attention. And then lamb. Why not lamb? We have a rosemary bush at home, weather has been nice enough to grill, and lamb is very high in recession fighting properties. So lamb it was.

Three lamb chops to a pack at the Dorignac. Marinate them in some crushed rosemary, garlic, olive oil, salt and pepper. In the meantime, half the fingerlings and toss with garlic, olive oil, salt, pepper, and rosemary. Sensing a theme here? Throw into a 400 degree oven until brown. Light fire on grill. Take dogs for their daily constitutional. Here is Penny, making an Elvis face and begging to go on a walk.

When coals are white hot, throw a few stems of rosemary into the fire. Remove lamb from marinade and wipe off excess oil, garlic, and rosemary. Place on grill, cook over high heat for 4 minutes per side (rotating the meat 90 degrees after 2 minutes on each side to get those char marks), until medium-rare.

Serve with the roasted potatoes and a tzakiki sauce. Greek yogurt, some diced and seeded cucumber, some parsley or whatever fresh herb you have (dill is traditional, I did not have dill), crushed garlic, salt and pepper. You can make this sauce ahead of time.


Dessert was fresh Ponchatoula Strawberries macerated in Balsamic Vinegar with a touch of sugar served on top of just beginning to melt vanilla ice cream.

Pretty fly for a Monday Night Supper.

7 on Fulton

Unlike some of the more well-known local food blogs around town, we do not get very many press releases. So when we do, we put them up. Let this be an invitation to all Press Release Releasers.

7 ON FULTON ANNOUNCES NEW EXECUTIVE CHEF
Sous Chef receives promotion

NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA March 2, 2009 -7 on Fulton has recently promoted Matthew Fultz to Executive Chef. Fultz, 29, joined the staff at 7 on Fulton in the Wyndham Riverfront Hotel in 2006 and quickly worked his way up to Executive Sous Chef. Prior to his arrival at the warehouse district hotel, Fultz graduated from Nicholls State University and completed an externship at the Rib Room in the Omni Royal Orleans Hotel, and later became the Executive Chef at the Flaming Torch restaurant. "Chef Matthew's background in fine dining will complement the timeless qualities of the exceptional dining experience our patrons have come to expect at 7," stated Craig Hulford, General Manager of 7 on Fulton. "His eagerness to create exciting, imaginative food will certainly be showcased in the contemporary design of our dining room."

On being named as Executive Chef, Fultz said, "I'm really excited about creating a new menu filled with progressive, but approachable food made with our region's best seasonal ingredients available." Fultz' contemporary Creole menu features dishes such as alligator ravioli with sauce piquant; crispy duck breast with sweet potato gnocchi sautéed vegetables in a duck jus; and Salmon meuniére with green chili grits and a Tasso cream sauce. Lunch entrees range from $10 to $19; dinner entrees are $15 to $27. A bar menu is available during all service hours.

7 on Fulton is located in the Wyndham Riverfront Hotel at 701 Convention Center Blvd. The restaurant serves Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner seven days a week.
Complimentary valet parking is offered to guests. Reservations may be made by calling (504) 525-7555.

I have eaten at 7 on Fulton a few times over the years. It has always been very good. I remember a particularly intriguing take on steak which involved a braised short rib ravioli and a sliced strip steak. Congrats to Chef Fultz. Promoting a worthy sous from within may not be enough to assuage the fears of certain food writers and their staunch refusal to eat at evolving restaurants, but it wont stop me. I plan on heading over there this week for lunch. Any takers?

Hogs for the Cause

I want to take a timeout today from our regularly scheduled drivel to tell you about something very special. Its called Hogs for the Cause. A few months ago Banker Hall contacted me about helping him put on a pig roast. He wanted me to do the cooking while he would do the drinking. Discussions ensued and the next thing I know we formed a charity.

Hogs for the Cause will be a yearly event that will use the glories of the pig to raise money for a worthy cause. This year's recipient is Ben Sarrat, Jr. You can read all about Ben here on his dank blog.

So what do I want from you readers. Well some donations would be great. Any amount you can spare, be it $5 or $500 will be greatly appreciated. You have to admit that is a pretty sweet logo. And if you are like us, I bet your frat shirts from college are falling apart. Well, lucky for you in the next week we will have that logo on a t-shirt for sale! See we think of anything.

Please help. If you do, I promise you another year of blogging. If you can be of help, please drop us a line. And trust me, until this goal is filed, I have your email address and I will send you all sorts of emails. Most of them could get you fired. Its up to you.