Galatoire's: Is It Worth It?

Editor's Note: This one gets a little weird. I struggled with whether or not to recommend it, but not because of the food (which recent visit showed marked improvement). Rather because the experience far exceeds the food. Which is why there is a dissertation in place of a standard review. Refunds gladly given. Buckle Up. 

Few things are misunderstood in the American dining landscape more than "tapas." Just the name is confusing enough to allow restaurateurs to fool an unsuspecting public. Tapas has come to mean smaller portions served at three-quarters the price of a normal plate. It's a great con if you can get in on it. Next time you split a hamburger or only serve your friends three small shrimp, call it tapas and people will swoon towards you like Hemingway to booze.

I am no authority on tapas, but my idea of tapas is that of a free form experience built mainly around drinking and socializing, and lastly eating. The food component is mostly small snacks delivered here and there, quick bites of something salty or sweet, or savory or bitter. Eaten alone, with strangers, or in the company of friends, tapas describes a style of dining more than the dishes served. Tapas are ordered at a set pace - yours. You choose when to switch from sherry to beer or anchovies to foie gras. There may be a menu, but more than likely you pay it no attention. The bartender or waiter guides you as you order. After a few bites, you move on to a different topic of conversation, drink, or food.

By my definition, Galatoire's, that French-Creole bastion, may provide one of the best examples of a tapas dining experience in America. Now, once you are done guffawing, consider this. First, the line between Spanish and French influence in New Orleans is blurrier than your vision after three Hurricanes. The French Quarter is really Spanish. The Civil Code is either French or Spanish, no one really knows for sure. The Saints were originally called Los Santos, and on and on.

Secondly, Jean Galatoire, the founder of Bourbon Street's classiest address, arrived in America by way of Pardies, French. Pardies, a  French town just outside of Pau, is as the crow flies about 156 kilometers from San Sebastian. San Sebastian is likely one of the birthplaces or at least an ardent follower of tapas. The area of Southwest France and Northeast Spain has an independent streak wider that a country mile. Neither area really believes itself to be Spanish or French, but its own unique culture. Sound familiar, New Orleans?

Galatoire's is not the high-end Louis XIV to Careme to Escoffier fancy French dining of reservations made months in advance. Galatoire's is not the place you go to sit in a hushed room while golden trimmed waiters deliver silver domed dishes while reciting French poetry. This is a place with more in common to a cafe or bar, where a cast of characters filters throughout the day to make noisy conversation over a Pernod, a newspaper, and a few bites of something simple.

Now this is not to say the food at Galatoire's is by any means Spanish. Pommes souffle, bernaise, marchand de vin are as French as striking government workers. The trout, pompano, crabmeat, oysters Rockefeller, lamb chops, and thick steaks are the food of a culture blessed with abundance. The menu - there is one - has shortened its official offerings, but a waiter will still deliver to your table just about anything he thinks you should have.

Rather, it is the style of dining at Galatoire's that is uniquely Spanish. This is a meal best undertaken surrounded by the company of four to six friends. Preferably, ones you don't see often enough. Skip the first rush towards lunch. It requires you to get out there entirely too early. Instead head for the second wave around 1:30 or 2:00 pm.

Your first round or two of drinks should be cocktails, something refreshing. A martini, Pimm's cup, or Bloody Mary will do. After two drinks, your table should be ready. The garlic bread, which now arrives along with the regular foot long of Leidenheimer, is a significant and worthwhile upgrade. Crusted with butter and the tinge of garlic, they are perfect with a glass of Champagne, should you be in the mood to celebrate.

Souffle potatoes are hit or miss. At times they arrive plump and airy, greaseless and the color of ancient papyrus. But there is likely one, two, or more on the plate which are soggy, dark brown, and deflated. Same goes for the fried eggplant. Finish the Champagne with the Galatoire's Goute, the classiest seafood platter in town.  A delicious mound of piquant shrimp remoulade shares top billing with a scoop of pearly crabmeat maison and oysters en brochette. That final offering suffers the same fate as the other fried items. It will either be fantastic or disappointing. All of the food up till now has been served to the table, which encourages sharing, passing and more conversation which leads to more drinks.

After a few more rounds of drinks and idle chatter, move on to Oysters Rockefeller and turtle soup. Time wise, you should be about two hours in to your meal or maybe thirty minutes. Time passes both slowly and fast in Galatoire's. Fish with crabmeat has been a perennial strong point at Galatoire's. Egg dishes and steaks are the sleepers. Steaks are particularly well-done, crusty on the exterior, soft on the inside, draped in your sauce of choice. For me, that often means a few bottles of deep, dark Napa cab. On a recent visit, the Pope upstaged us all with a filet topped with foie gras.

Skip dessert, which has always been a weak point. If you really want a dessert, beg for a hot fudge sundae or ask politely for a Grand Marnier, neat. Contrary to popular belief, Galatoire's is not some restaurant designed only for the elite, rather it is a simple neighborhood cafe serving drinks, bites of food, and a place to socialize. All be it in coat after five and all day Sunday.

Galatoire's is tapas. In the same way it took a Russian composer (Prokofiev) to translate the story of an Englishman (Shakespeare) about Italian lovers (Romeo and Juliet) into music, so it took a Frenchmen in New Orleans to fully execute the genius of Spanish tapas in America. And he accomplished this 112 years ago.

Galatoire's: Is It Worth It? Yes, but not if you are looking for a traditional 3 course meal in an hour.
209 Bourbon St.
(504) 525-2021

Winesday

Rene: Pale gold in color. Get some crisp apple flavors at first glance. Don't get the bread aromas that mark a blanc de blancs, could be a blanc de noirs, which is not my preference in Champagnes. Very fine bubbles, but a little too sweet for me. Although I generally like a touch of sweetness in white wines, I like champagnes to be very bone dry. The sweetness needs something brassy to play against. Which brings to mind the lamb sliders from Three Muses with tomato chutney and herbed goat cheese. The feta fries from there also would do just fine as well.

Peter: Yeasty bouquet. Flavor profile is very dry. I would not call this a refreshing Champagne. I know that I have played this card before, but this would make for a great kir royale, the creme de cassis adding a welcome sweetener. A simple cold appetizer would do well - the crabmeat maison at Galatoire's or the the Plateau de Fruits de Mer at Luke.

Joe the Wine Guy: Most Champagnes are house blends, meaning different vintages are blended to create a house's signature style. Every now and then, when there is an exceptional year, the Champagne houses declare a vintage year - and bottle a champagne with grapes specifically from that vintage. Such is the case with this 2002 Veuve Clicquot which is made up of 60% Pinot Noir, 7% Pinot Meunier, and 33% Chardonnay. The nose is open, pure, and complex, with a mineral flavor and flowery notes of Acacia, yellow fleshed fruit and pastries (brioche, marzipan). These give way to delicately spiced aromas, followed by elegant notes of licorice and high-bred teas. On the palate, the wine has fruity and floral notes, mineral and spice tones, and menthol and toast flavors. Try it with bass tartare, poached turbot served on fresh pasta, or cappuccino of Bresse chicken with candied fruits. Keen devotees will enjoy it as an aperitif for very special occasions. You can find it at Ralph's on the Park and Martin Wine Cellar, where it retails for $79.99.

Cooking With Wine

A bottle of rose has done more good to cure the effects of summertime heat than any other invention, short of air conditioning. Not only is rose a great internal a/c, but it gets along exceedingly well with traditional New Orleans foods. In fact, I'll wager that pound for pound, rose, but specifically rose champagne, is the number one match for a wide variety of New Orleans foods, generally.

Mad Max's latest offering is a pink wine from the affordable line of Bastianich Wines. The 2010 Rosato is made up of 100% Refosco, which is a red wine grape which traditionally makes for a very spicy wine. Here, the flavor is softer and more apt to stand up to the hot sun of an early summer evening. This Italian version of rose, had me wishing for a plate of antipasti and a view of the water. What came out of that was what I'd consider an Italian's take on Chicken Paillard. You can find the wine at Galatoire's, Swirl, Bacchanal, and Cork & Bottle where it retails for around $14 a bottle.

Chicken Paillard-Italian Style

Begin with a chicken breast per person. Pound it out until it is half an inch thick. Season both sides with salt and pepper. Meanwhile, slice a red onion or shallot into half moons and toss with the juice of one lemon, the zest of said lemon, and a 1/4 cup of olive oil. Pour this over the chicken breasts, toss to coat, and let it sit while you make the relish. 

Traditionally, chicken paillard is topped with romaine, a few shreds of Parmesan, thin sliced shallots, and maybe a tomato or two. What I wanted to do with this dish, is bring in the classic Italian antipasti flavors in a "topping" form.

Begin with a good selection of olives- I like the dry, wrinkly black ones, big meaty green ones, and some Kalamata. Pit each olive. To this add some thin sliced red onion, thin slices of pickled, Italian hot peppers, some oregano, and a big, plump tomato coarsely chopped. A splash of red wine vinegar will help bring it all together. 

Grill your chicken over a medium heat. Six minutes per side should be sufficient. Top with the relish mixture, a few slivers of salty, Italian cheese (I had Pecorino in the house), and a few leaves of basil. Simply perfect, the food and wine give air conditioning a run for its money. 

Vinterview

After graduating high school in New Orleans, Joe Briand enrolled at Loyola and began working in restaurants. Eventually he found his way to Herbsaint where he climbed up the ranks to general manager and wine buyer for the Link Restaurant Group. Last fall he left the Link Restaurant Group to begin working as Manager/Wine Buyer for Hopper's Carte des Vins. The new wine shop, which should open shortly, is located on Magazine St. across the street from Whole Foods. 20 ish questions on the clock.

I was working at Vaquero's with a friend when we decided to go work at this new Susan Spicer restaurant called Herbsaint. While working at Vaquero's we would get really excited if we sold $400 of margaritas in a shift. When I got to Herbsaint all of a sudden I was selling $1200 of wine a night. So there was a financial draw first into wine. But the initial group of waiters and managers at Herbsaint was very strong wine wise and we would do blind tastings on Sunday afternoons.

The wines that changed everything for me were two bottles of Burgundy. Both came from vineyards less than 2 miles apart. One was a Chambolle-Musigny that had a perfume of what I then imagined the winemaker's sexy, French wife would have smelled like. The other had that dirty, in a good way, musty, barnyard funk, it was a '96 Nuits St. George. I was fascinated that two wines from same varietal and same area could be so different.

Leaving the Link Restaurant Group was the toughest decision I ever had to make. I have a wife and son, with another on the way, and I just needed to be able to spend more time with them. Donald tried to change my responsibilites and job to keep me on and we are still very close. In the end after 10 years of working in restaurant business, I knew the demands of the job and how you really have to throw your whole self into the job. It was like a divorce, but a friendly divorce (laughs).

The misconception is that Hopper's is a wine shop filled only with high end bottles. In fact, 40% of the bottles are under $20. At Carte des Vins, I want to offer people the most bang for the buck. The core of our offerings will come from the Old World, sort of like the wine list at Herbsaint. I really like the fact that I can sell a Rhone wine for $15. A wine that was made over there with care and dedication, bottled, and shipped, and it is great for only $15 bucks. That is amazing. I'll try to turn people on to wines they haven't tried previously.

It is important for the casual wine drinker to find a retailer they trust and develop a relationship. It is easy to do. Walk into a retailer, introduce yourself, and ask them to put together a mix case of wines for you at such and such price a bottle. I dont understand why people are afraid to ask questions when it comes to wine. In every other merchant transaction, the customer has no problems asking questions. Look, when I go to wine tastings, I am constantly asking questions. Customers should do the same.

I'll tell one story about the foolishness of wine tasting notes. I was at a tasting once of German wines. And the person leading the tasting had some initials behind their name. German wines are incredibly confusing. The names on the labels, the styles, the language. I love German wines but they still confuse me. A wine buyer from a restaurant asked a question and in the question he mentioned he "got an herbal note." So the person leading the tasting says, "Yes, I get a lot of blackberry leaf." I spit my wine out and started howling laughing. Seriously, who the fuck has ever eaten a blackberry leaf? Nor remembered it how it tasted to compare it to a wine.

I don't like that kind of talk. I tend to describe wines very basically. Is there red fruit? black fruit? What is the weight like in the mouth. Heavy tannins or light? I've never had a gooseberry and I don't know anyone who has, but there it is apparently inside of every bottle of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. I don't talk like that because the average wine drinker drinks the wine and gets discouraged because they don't taste "blackberry leaf."

After Katrina, my wife and I rebuilt a double. She got the bathroom and big walk-in closet and I got a wine cellar with a cork floor. In there, I'd say 60% is red and white Burgundy. I have a good chunk of Rhone wines, some Italian, some Germans, of course a few cases of Champagne. 2 cases of Sauterne, about the same of port. I hold some cases for some friends. All in all, I have about 400-500 bottles, but the capacity to keep around 1200.

One section of my cellar I like to call the "You don't have to ask me if you can open this wine." It is about 10 cases of everyday wines. And this is where the other wines from around the world are represented. Some great Spanish whites, these Greek white wines I really like, basic burgundies.

We eat out a lot, so I do pay attention to wine lists. Some that really impress me are Commander's Palace and Stella! The Windsor Court has really made some great strides. Sarah (Kavanaugh) has a very enviable wines by the glass program. And then of course Galatoire's.

When food is too spicy, it makes pairing wines incredibly difficult. And so being that much of New Orleans food is spicy, that can sometimes cause a problem. But in general, the food of New Orleans is based on the cuisines of the Old World where they have been drinking wine for thousands of years. I find that Rhone wines go very well with Cajun food. The wines of Southwest France also, which has similar use of one pot cooking and heavy use of sausages.

Seafood gumbo, I'd pair a pinot gris from Luxemburg because it has weight, fruit, and is not too sweet. With trout almondine, it has to be white burgundy. For grilllades and grits, a Vacqueryas or Gigondas, something from the Rhone valley, but lighter. Bread pudding is so sweet that I would want to pair it with something with a good bit of acid and lesser sweetness. So maybe a muscat based wine from the Languedoc or an Icewine.

Most people drink their whites too cold and their reds too warm. Stick that red in the fridge for 30 minutes before you open it and let it sit for 10 before you drink it. Take your whites out of the fridge 30 minutes before you want to drink it. You will notice a much better wine drinking experience. Also, remember you don't have to spend a lot of money to drink aged wines. Buy a case of simple Bourgogne
Rouge or Bourgogne Blanc at $15 a bottle or so, and just sit on it for 2-3 years. Wines like that really benefit from just a few years of aging. If you can commit to leaving stuff alone for a few years, you will always have a ready supply of fantastic wine to drink. One last tip, buy white wines in winter and reds in summer. It will sort of force you not to touch them for a while, and you can get better deals because merchants are looking to last seasons whites or reds from their inventory.

We typically figure out what we are cooking first, than we pull the wine. The other day I got some fresh speckled trout from a friend. So came home, made a courtbouillon, and opened a Sancerre that had a good bit of richness.

I love rose. And sure it is cool and trendy to be into rose, but I love them. They are good with food, but they are also good without food. So in summer I drink a lot of roses. I also like mineral driven crisp whites, wines from the Jura region of France, and the perhaps the best summer wine, basic Chablis.

Windows on the World by Kevin Zraly. The Wine Atlas by Robinson and Johnson. Adventures on the Wine Route by Kermit Lynch.

I'd like to see wineries stop reacting to market first rather than paying attention to their location second. 15 years ago Syrah was planted all over California, now you can't give it away. Look, France has had 1,000 years on us to figure out what grows best where. No reason California can't figure that out also. And I am completely over the "Super" thing. the other day someone tried to sell me a Super Sicilian. Look just because you add Cabernet, it doesn't make it super.

I'd like to see more blends from California or at least more transparency in the labeling as to what grapes are actually in that wine. I've drank far too many California Pinot Noirs that have Syrah in them. Italy had a huge scandal a few years ago with some unscrupulous vintners. Look, there are vintners in the Languedoc who choose to label as a vin de pays rather than AOC because the non-AOC wines just does better on their lands. There is nothing wrong with that. Grow, bottle, and sell what grows best where you are.

A restaurant is incredibly expensive to operate. If people knew how slim the margins are they wouldn't complain about the mark up on wine. And look, that cocktail you are drinking instead of wine? That is marked up much more than the wine. I tell people this all the time, when you go to a restaurant, order wines you like and know rather than taking a flyer. If you gamble and lose, that markup hurts a lot more.

After tasting wine all day, most of the time I just want a nice, cold beer.

One case of wine with money no object? Fine, but they all get to be magnums. First, I'd get one of those bottles of Veuve-Clicquot from the 1800's they just found at the bottom of the ocean. Then 1 each of the Grand Crus from Domaine de la Romanee Conti, let's say Romanee Conti, La Tache, and Romanee-St.-Vivant. A Raveneau Grand Cru Chablis from a really great year. One bottle of First Growth Bourdeaux pre-phylloxera. A German dessert wine selection from Crocker like a Trockenbeerenauslese. A '98 Beaucastel made from 100% Roussanne. An old bottle of Saumur-Champigny from Domaine Clos Rougeard. A bottle of '51 Y'Quem. My wife's favorite champagne is 96 Demiere Ansiot, so would need a bottle of that. Finally, a Musigny from Comte de Voguey from 1978, my birth year.

Winesday

Peter: Some good spice but can still taste the grape. High in alcohol though, which is a shame. How about some braised short ribs from Sylvain or the ridiculously good lasagna from Domenica.

Rene: Powerful oak on the nose, smells like the inside of a barn. Lot of heat in the back of the throat from the alcohol. Don't get very much fruit, just woodsy spice. But wine could stand up to something heavy which makes me want Ian Schnobelein's ravioli with veal cheeks, but since that doesn't seem to be on his menu anymore the rigatoni with oxtail ragout, broccoli, and ricotta at Iris would be a good substitute.

Joe the Wine Guy:  That wine is 2006 Domaine Chandon "La Riviere" Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. It has enticing aromas of cocoa powder, red plum, black cherry, and cedar which are a prelude to flavors of black cherry, dried cranberry, cocoa, and cardamom. It finishes with vanilla bean notes which would be perfect with roast rack of lamb with a fig reduction, or maybe a black truffle risotto, or even with a dessert like Black Forest cake. You can find it at Galatoire's and The Wine Seller and it retails for $45.

Madame, It is Time for Your Closeup

We try to cover a lot of ground. Recently Peter and I noticed we don't really review some of the places that have been around longer than the internet. The Grand Dames have always been some of New Orleans' most press worthy restaurants. We are talking of course about the Super Six: Antoine's, Galatoire's, Brennan's, Arnaud's, Broussard's, and Commander's Palace. It's time to put these restaurants under the microscope.

Galatoire's

New Orleans sometimes forces you to make promises you won't keep. Swing into a place like Three Muses or Blue Nile and you walk out vowing to learn to play the trumpet. Walk through the French Quarter on a quiet Spring day, and soon you will find yourself crunching numbers to figure out if an apartment in the French Quarter is doable. Which is how on Saturday afternoon, Lindsay ended up saying, "We really should get dressed up and go to dinner at places like Galatoire's more often. You know, for a change of pace."

What a great idea. I can only recall one other time eating at Galatoire's for dinner. Lunch sure, but lunch at Galatoire's is a cocktail party with food. Dinner? What is dinner at Galatoire's like?

The French Quarter was pulsing last Saturday evening. As French Quarter Fest wound down and a band of educators were turned loose for the evening, the Quarter seemed to expand to hold the mass of humanity filling it. A quick walk from the lot and soon we had entered that tile and wood clad vestibule where so many have waited for so few tables. In a few minutes, a table in the way back near the clock was ready.

The martini at Galatoire's is a stunning example of why no one should really drink these things. They are just too goddamn good to be good for you. A thin, glacial sheet of gin rested on top of the martini. Pressing one's lips to the glass takes your breath away. Then, you get that delightful blend of smooth gin and punchy vermouth. A big bowl of olives, lemon rinds, and onions gives you the opportunity to have either a snack or a martini bar. Remember martinis are like boobs and toy trains - they are meant for little kids, but only dad gets to play with them.

Souffle potatoes and fried eggplant come next with bernaise and powdered sugar with hot sauce, irrespectively. Sometimes they are both perfect, oftentimes one is better than the other. On this visit, the eggplant was crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, whereas the potatoes were flaccid. Win goes to the eggplant.

Then came a visit from Dr. Brobson Lutz, decked out in what can only be called an ensemble of tapestry- a patterned red sportscoat and red bowling shoes. Segue: Brobson needs, more than chickens, or zoo cobras, a Twitter account. Then came something unordered from the kitchen, a bubbling, casserole studded with big, garlicky snails. The snails are fine and well, but the real star of most cooked mollusk dishes is the sauce. A crust of bread dragged through the parsley sauce is the perfect bite of food. Lutz says, "Hey, you know they get those from a can," in a drawl so long it wraps halfway around the block.

Since all snails come from a can one is left wondering what Lutz means by this, but he leaves to finish his white wine, salad, and soup. Next up is a cup of turtle soup as we figure we wont be able to eat soup for another 7 months or so. The soup is thicker, spicier, and better than I remember.

Now, comes the most troubling part of eating at Galatoire's, ordering an entree. In all honesty, one is usually full or drunk by the time the entrees come around. Plus, the appetizers have always been better. But with 3/4 of a bottle of Tattinger Champagne left, this seems like as good of a time as any to try the fried chicken. For around $18 bucks, you get a three piece order of mahogany colored bird.

The crust is the best part of any fried chicken, and this is some of the best crust anywhere. But the inside meat lacked a depth of flavoring and one piece was a little bit rare near the bone. With the fried chicken we asked for just a simple green salad with their garlicky, pungent dressing. This turned out to be a perfect food match like peanut butter and jelly.

People who either love or hate Galatoire's always describe the food as "simple and basic", but sometimes simple and basic works. As we sat their, eating fried chicken with our hands, I hoped this would be a New Orleans promise we'd keep.

Winesday

Peter: Good mineral quality. Not an oaky, rich buttery Chardonnay (which I am not a fan of). Taste more European than New World. Not overly acidic.Very easy drinking. Would be nice with a cheese plate at St. James or a very simply pan-sauteed piece of fish at Galatoire's.

Rene: Bright, crisp citrusy with a little bit of effervescence and a nice full finish. Makes me immediately want seafood. Specifically oysters, but not raw oysters. Fried oysters with an herbsaint cream sauce come to mind but maybe too heavy. Cochon has a wood fired oyster with chili butter that would be a good balance to this wine. Also, bun with chargrilled pork and eggrolls from 9 Roses as this wine could get along nicely with spicy Asian food.

Joe the Wine Guy: Wine is a 2009 Chateau de Sancerre made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc. The vineyard's soil is almost entirely limestone and clay contributing much minerality. The intense nose of the wine bursts with flowers (orange flower, vine blossom) and minerals. On the palate it is soft and rich with blood orange and yellow peach. You can find this wine at Tujagues Galatoire's, Commander's Palace, International House, and Dorignacs. It retails for $26 a bottle.

Week in Preview

This week is loaded with special events for food and wine lovers. So open up your Outlook calendar because we have a lot of planning to do.

Monday

• Galatoire's Mardi Gras Table Auction - Grab your paddle and score your seat for the circus that is lunch at Galatoire's on the Friday before Mardi Gras.
• A Toast to All Things French - Swirl kicks off their 6 week French wine tasting series hosted by Michelle Gueydan.

Tuesday

• Barolo Wine Dinner (SOLD OUT) - Herbsaint presents a special dinner featuring the Barolo wines of Podere Rocche Dei Manzoni & Gianfranco Bovio.

Wednesday

• Riverbend Tapas Crawl - The restaurants of the Riverbend invite you to their monthly ambulatory feast.
• Winemaker Meet & Greet - Swirl hosts winemaker Andrew Rich, who will be pouring out samples of his Willamette Valley wines.
• Cigar & Beer Pairing - The Avenue Pub invites cigar lovers to enjoy a smoke along with their extensive beer selection in 6 different pairing suggestions.
• Bushmills Whiskey Dinner - Master of whiskey James McCartney hosts a 5 course dinner paired with whiskeys from the famed distillery.

Thursday

• Gabrielle in Purgatory (WAITING LIST ONLY) - Vintage Orleans is hosting a dinner featuring menu favorites from Gabrielle, gone for now but not forgotten.
• Andrew Rich Wine Dinner - The Oregon winemaker teams up with Vega Tapas Cafe for a 5 course dinner paired with his hand crafted wines.

Friday

• Krewe of Cork - King Patrick van Hoorebeek and his merry group of winos will be parading through the French Quarter on Friday afternoon, celebrating all things great that come in a wine glass.

A Season of Sacrifice

The binge has finally ended.... Or has it?

As we last discussed on Friday, it's been a non-stop party around here since Christmas. But why fool ourselves into thinking that the good times have stopped rolling simply because some of us are supposed to abstain from eating the flesh of hooved animals for the next few Fridays?

After the resounding success of our "Farewell to Meat" series during Carnival, we have decided to embrace our Catholic upbringing with a new series this Lenten season: "Fish Fridays." From boiled crawfish and raw oysters to turtle soup and trout amandine, we will explore the bounty of our local waters through our favorite seafood dishes. So when Friday rolls around and you are trying to decide how to avoid going vegan for the day, look no further than here.

Finally, we wish everyone good luck with your respective Lenten sacrifices. As is my custom, I will be making a run at a self-imposed prohibition on deep fried foods, pizza, and sweets for the next 46 days. (Hopefully though, this year I will avoid counteracting my attempt at health and wellness with late night overindulgences of peanut butter and honey.) Rumor has it that Bloggle, a/k/a NOLAWineGuy, is giving up Twitter, but I'll believe that when I see it.

As for The Pope, well... he gave up on giving up stuff a long, long time ago.

Go Big or Go Home

Today marks the beginning of the end of the most gluttonous and debaucherous seven week stretch that most of us have ever lived through. And hasn't it been glorious?

If you are looking for a way to go out with a bang, look no further than the trifecta of filet mignon, foie gras, and bearnaise. This specimen came from Galatoire's, but any restaurant is likely more than willing to create this concoction if the kitchen is stocked accordingly.

Too much too soon, you say? Nonsense. If there is one characteristic which native New Orleanians are known for, it's stamina. So don't hold back this weekend, because the last time I checked, Lent doesn't start till Wednesday.

Finish strong.

Classic Combinations

Friday Lunch & Galatoire's

It is no secret that we love Galatoire's (a/k/a The Old Green Lady). But for many people the Old Green Lady is just a boring anachronism of another era. Sure, sometimes the food is less than stellar, but as far as ambiance and cocktails it can not be beat. So if you have never darkened the door or its been a while, here is our guide to eating at and appreciating the Old Green Lady.

1. On your first time, avoid Friday lunch. Until you get your souffle potatoes merit badge, I would stay away on Friday. Go on a Tuesday, Wednesday or Thursday or go for dinner. The pace will be slower, and you will have a chance to actually talk to your waiter. Friday is for regulars and ladies with funny hats. It is no place for a beginner.
2. Get a waiter and stick with him. It does not matter who it is. Getting a lunch gig at Galatoire's does not happen by chance. These guys and gals are pros. Just ask the maitre'd to give you someone who is not too busy. If you like the guy, remember his name and get him every time. Each time you return the food and service will continue to improve.
3. Go at 2 pm. Here is why: You get to watch the turn to the evening. As early bird lunchers leave their stoops to return to offices, carpool, or Old Absinthe House, choice tables become available. The kitchen is not as backed up, and your waiter has more time. Plus, as the afternoon light grows and fades, the tiled mirrored room takes on the vibe of a well-attended cocktail party complete with table hopping and story swapping. This is the magic hour.
4. Order a cocktail as soon as you sit down. Bloody Mary, a Sazerac, the Brandy Milk Punch, or a martini will do. Devour the hot loaves of french bread. Settle down.
5. Here come the cocktails. Do not order yet and do not take the menu. Sit, tell your waiter to give you a little bit of time, enjoy your drink.
6. Always order a second drink before you order any food. And when you order food, only order one course at a time. Tell your guy what you like to eat and ask this simple question, "What's good today?"
7. First round: souffle potatoes and fried eggplant. The eggplant sticks will come with powdered sugar. Add some Tabasco to the sugar and make a paste. Dip eggplant in there and be amazed at the transformation of simple ingredients into a delicious snack. Souffle potatoes - add salt, dip into bearnaise. If you know anyone named Bernie, thank him later for his contribution to cuisine.
8. At this point in your meal, when seafood is really great (as it is now), get a Grand Goute for the table. Crabmeat maison, shrimp remoulade, and oysters en brochette. Another drink.
9. Turtle soup, gumbo, maybe Oysters Rock, salade verte? Your call.
10. While the din of conversation around you rises and falls as orders to sing birthday tunes are delivered, remember that in the rest of the world people are working right now.
11. Peruse the wine list. It is one of the most extensive in the city. There is a good bottle for your budget and meal on there, I guarantee it.
12. Entrees. Here is a secret: The filet at Old Green Lady is one of the best in town. Amazing char on it and a silken interior. Plus ole bearnaise and his buddy marchand du vin are options if you go this route. Other gems include fresh fish, lightly cooked with maybe a little brown butter or a little crabmeat on top. At this point, just let the Old Lady's stewards to have their way with you. Give in. Other sleepers are the eggs benedict and eggs sardou.
13. Dessert is for people celebrating birthdays. Get a nice port, sit back, and take the scene in.

Now, if you try that, and still hate the place, ain't nuthin I can do to help you.

Going to the LRA Food Expo this weekend? Want to hear my take on Social Media and Food? No? Didn't think so. Well, if you do, join Marie Breaux, Leon Bechet and I at 3 pm on Sunday as we talk about Country of Origin Labeling and Social Media.

Antoine's Wins Culinary Innovation Award

Ferran Adria, Heston Blumenthal, and Grant Achatz have made culinary history with their inventive use of ingredients, ideas, and innovation. But all three of them were literally "blown away, dude" by the culinary creativity of Antoine's, the venerable establishment on St. Louis Street.
Ferran Adria's creation above: tired, stale, and out of date has nothing on Antoine's Baked Alaska, below.
Yesterday the three chefs were on hand to present to GM/CEO of Antoines, Rick Blount, the 2009 Creative Culinarian Award. "It is an honor to present this award to a restaurant who for over 150 years has done the impossible: turn eggs, lemon, and tarragon into an emulsification known as bernaise. How you think of such things, much less create them, I will never know!" Adria exclaimed while gesticulating wildly with his mad scientist hands.

The award recipients were not shocked at all by this award. "We at Antoine's have always been innovators: Oysters Rockefeller, Pompano Pontchartrain, Cafe Brulot. We are the definition of innovation. It's good to see the recognition we so rightfully deserve," stated Blount.

"I have tried for years to something as simple and magical as Souffle Potatoes. I even had a sex swing made to carry a hot potato into a cold soup. Yet nothing I have done comes close to the imagination springing forth from that kitchen," echoed Achatz.

In fact, Achatz, so moved by the creativity of the Old Grand Dame asked Blount if he could stagier at Antoine's in the fall. Blount politely offered Achatz a position on the line making Eggs Benedict. Achatz was beside himself with excitement. "Seriously this is so effing cool, I can't wait to blog it," replied Achatz.

But don't think Antoine's is ready to rest on its laurels. They just put in a bar. A move that has caused shockwaves throughout the restaurant world. "A bar! So people can spend money while they wait to spend money. This is freaking genius. This is the whole point of molecular gastronomy: to get chefs and restaurateurs and, ultimately, diners, to think about food and the restaurant experience in a different way. I wonder why we didn't think of a bar first?" questioned a longtime waiter from Galatoire's who prefers to remain anonymous.

Following the presentation, Antoine's hosted a banquet for a new social club in New Orleans who plans on parading down the street, throwing "beads", and giving twenty year old girls the chance to be queen for the day. The working name is Rex.

Not So Fast

Looks like a few of the Galatoire's owners are not exactly amenable to the potential sale. I can't say that I blame them. Who would want to give up a piece of that pie?

Times Pic Steals Story

Mr. Anderson reports on the story we already broke.

And check out this email that fell into Peter's Inbox recently notice the name of who originally sent it.

From: al gooch
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2009 2:37 PM
To:
Subject: FW: Galatoire's Sale hits the Press - turned up in a Google search

---

Subject: Fw: Galatoire's Sale hits the Press - turned up in a Google search

----- Original Message -----

Subject: Galatoire's Sale hits the Press - turned up in a Google search

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

New Ownership at New Orleans Flagship

For many foodies around the country, Galatoire's is the one of the first restaurants which comes to mind when thinking of "New Orleans food." For over 100 years, the Galatoire-Gooch family has been at the helm of what is arguably the quintessential creole fine dining restaurant in New Orleans. Such might not be the case much longer. According to two sources within the staff of the restaurant (one from the front of the house, one from the back), an earthshaking deal has been struck in which a majority of the Galatoire-Gooch family shares will be sold.

"Deep Fried" - the more knowledgeable of our two sources - described the details of the sale as follows. Though he/she was hazy on the specifics, his/her information comes directly from one of the major players listed below.

1. The ownership change affects both the original Galatoire's on Bourbon and Galatoire's Bistro in Baton Rouge. (Yes, we are aware that the ownership makeup is not exactly the same for both restaurants. However, there is no question that there is some shareholder overlap between the two locations).
2. GM/COO Melvin Rodrigue will acquire a 12.5% ownership stake.
3. Executive Chef Brian Landry will also acquire a 12.5% ownership stake. Chef Landry will be required to maintain his post as Executive Chef for a specified number of years.
4. A quartet of "big money guys" will acquire 50% of the shares. Though we do not know the exact identities of these four individuals, we were told that one of them comes from the Bollinger Shipyards family.
5. The remaining 25% of the shares will be retained by the Galatoire-Gooch family. We are told that a number of family members (upwards of 25 individuals) have an ownership stake in the restaurant. Which particular family members will retain ownership we do not know.
6. There is talk of moving Galatoire's Bistro to another location - most likely closer to downtown Baton Rouge.
7. The agreement provides for future ownership in future additional Galatoire's restaurants. (And we thought that hell froze over when they started serving Godchaux salads just down the road from Blue Bayou.)

Could this really be true? All signs point to yes. What else is there to say? Not much. That's what pictures are for.
http://blackenedout.blogspot.com/2009/01/new-ownership-at-new-orleans-flagship.html

Who Works on the Friday After Thanksgiving?

Probably a lot of people. But not Rene, Legend, The Pope, or Doc - for today is the annual Galatoire's luncheon. So while some people (myself included) are busy toiling away at the daily grind, those four will be feasting on souffle potatoes, Lord knows how many pounds of crabmeat, and probably a cocktail or two.

'

It's OK to admit it if you're jealous. I am.

Thanks Gave In

Its here. America's greatest holiday. No worrying about whether or not to say Happy Holidays or Merry Christmas, no standing in line at Toys R' You, and a successful Thanksgiving ends with a nap and a glass of wine toppling onto your sweater.

Joining Lindsay and I will be her family-dad, mom, and brother. So what is being served at the Louapre house of hilarity bar and grill? Nothing less than perfection.

Breads from La Boulangerie.

Creamy Garlic Soup from Susan Spicer's Crescent City Cooking topped with Garlic Chips from the The French Laundry Cookbook (in common terms, two stones, one bird).

Corn Goodness which is corn mixed with good things like onion, green pepper, jalapeno, and free money.

A green bean casserole complete with cream of mushroom soup and Durkee fried onions. This is my concession to what I term plebe food and Lindsay is making it. Part of this is because I have an unnatural reaction to casseroles involving cream of _____ soups. And Lindsay thinks it is funny to make crap like this. It is.

Mashed Potatoes. In the words of LC, "Obvi."

Turkey. Going away from the brined turkey this year, as it usually does get overly salty. And furthermore, a properly cooked turkey (to 165 degrees at the thigh) does not dry out. Lindsay made a lemon, garlic bay leaf compound salt (for lack of a better term) that we usually use on roast chicken. We also had to get a "fresh" turkey, which I am willing to try. If the turkey fails, I think we know who to blame. That's right, Native Americans.

Gravy. I made turkey stock last weekend. Stock happens.

Homemade cranberry sauce with Bourbon. Just in case the booze is slow.

A Pumpkin Pie from La Boulangerie with a homemade caramel and sea salt ice cream and house whipped cream. We go the extra mile for our guests, I guess we are just better people.

Wines, loads of it; moonshine, bathtubs full of da stuff, fresh squeezed satsuma juice, the remainder of that Lemon Grass Wheat Ale homebrew, and probably some water at some point.

And Legend returns. Tomorrow lunch at Galatoire's with the Pope, Legend, and Doc. In case you were wondering, Peter wussed out. Something about succeeding.

From all of us at Blackened Out Media Worldwide Conglomerate and Spa, Thank you for reading our petulant comments. We appreciate every last one of you.

After Work Today...

Who are we kidding? Today is the day that the Louisiana Supreme Court releases the July Bar Exam results. No lawyer works today and even if you do, you will probably knock off around 9:30 for lunch. And non-lawyers can do things like long lunches all the time. So, this post should really be entitled: "Where to Celebrate or Drown Your Sorrows Today."*

First, a few tips for you:

1. A little known fact is that the LASC mails out the individual results to candidates on the day before publicly releasing them via the web and posting them on the door of the LASC building on Royal Street. If you don't pass, then next time around you can intercept the letter from the post office and know your fate before everyone else does.**
2. If you have an inside connection at the LASC, you may be able to call them before the results are posted at 9:00am. You have waited 11 weeks already, but we all know that finding out an hour earlier will make a world of a difference. Or just wait, patience es un virtue.
3. If you choose to go "old school" and check the list posted at the Supreme Court, please be respectful of your fellow candidates.
4. If you email this article to everyone you know, your results will come faster. Its like bells ringing and angel winging.

Now, to the more important question: Where should I go to lunch? If you are one who likes to see and be seen, then, much like The Highlander, there can only be one: Galatoire's. In the future, you will probably be holding court there on many a Friday afternoon, so you may as well start now.

Or more accurately, you took that Big Law job because you thought "all lawyers do is go to long lunches at Galatoire's on Fridays." Ohhh, how wrong you were. But at least you passed. So this is probably your last time to go there for Friday lunch for at least 10-12 years. By the time you can go, wife, kids, clients, and general b.s. will keep you away; please remove your rose colored Vuarnets. So go while you can and don't ever leave. However, if you are reading this post and have not yet dispatched a secretary to wait in line or the kid who did not pass, then you will likely be relegated to lunching in Siberia.

But perhaps you are one of the many young attorneys who finds him/herself working at one of the many firms struggling to generate enough work for the partners (much less the newly minted associates), and thus a four hour lunch is not in the cards (i.e., budget). Or no one gives a flying hoot that you passed the bar. No problem. Hit up one of the prix fix menus at MiLa or Cuvée - where the atmosphere may not be such a raucous as at Galatoire's but the food will indeed be much more exciting.

But no matter whether you feast upon Oysters Rockefeller or a Lucky Dog during your celebratory lunch, there is only one place to go when you finish:

For one of these:

Congrats.

* If you conditioned or worse , do not go downtown and even attempt to have a good time. Turn off your cell phone, load up your car with booze, drive at least to Orange Beach (or further), do not check Facebook updates, and just generally try to get away from it all. Remember: JFK, Jr. took the New York Bar three times before he passed, and I would say that he had a pretty successful life. If only a pilot's license was harder to obtain. What? Too soon?

** We have no evidence to either dispute or verify this information, thus hereby indemnifying ourselves from all liability which may result from advocating such an action. In fact, it is the oldest lie told in Louisiana.

If Tomorrow Never Comes

The Pope emailed me yesterday with this suggestion: "I think you and Rene should do a blog asking that if Monday was your last day on earth, where would you eat breakfast, lunch, and dinner (and maybe a snack in between), and what would you have."

But with Gustav in the Gulf and today being the 3rd anniversary of the landfall of Hurricane Katrina, I decided to take some literary license with this question. If today was your last day to eat out in New Orleans, where would you go? While we wait with baited breath for The Pope's final day of dining out, I will give you my list of last NOLA meals. Though I must say that if you asked me this question tomorrow, I might have completely different answers.

Breakfast - Cafe du Monde
Nothing like an order of beignets with a cup of coffee and chicory to start the day.

Lunch - Galatoire's
Why? Because nowhere else in the world can you have a remotely similar lunch experience. You can't go to Galatoire's for lunch and not have a great time.* Table of 8. Start with a Sazerac. Grand Goute, Oysters En Brochette, and Fried Eggplant & Pommes Soufflé Bearnaise to pass around with our cocktails. A nice piece of sauteed trout or redfish with either crawfish tails or crabmeat (whichever is in season). Dessert? How about a slice of chocolate pecan pie.

Snack - Drago's
Like a really need a mid-afternoon treat to hold me over. But if The Pope says that I can have one, I want it to be a dozen on the half shell.

Dinner - Stella!
Tasting menu, of course. With wine pairings. What would I get? Who knows. But if experience has taught me anything, Scott Boswell would not steer my wrong.

So there is my last day dining. Rene's and The Pope's are soon to come, but feel free to email us yours.

*Well, unless you are the judge's wife who was urinated on by some drunk college kid on Christmas Eve last year. But that's another story for another time.

Local Dialect

Something familiar about this place. Mirrors on the walls, elegant yet casual, good food, attentive service; can't quite put my finger on it.

Last Saturday Lindsay (Lady tired of "such a lame nickname") and I dined at Patois. Patois, on the corner of Laurel and Webster, is a French word denoting a local dialect. That certainly is apparent in both the food and the restaurant itself.

The interior evokes memories of a Caribbean house with neutral colors, high ceilings, and large windows. A bar area leads to a raised dining room which gives ample opportunity to people watch.

We began with some cocktails, and why not? Lindsay had The Contessa which combined candied ginger and champagne. I had the White Lily which blended together egg white, gin, muddled cucumber, and sugar. What resulted was both creamy and refreshing. The sea cap white froth with traces of almost cerulean undertones provided visual stimuli to match the palate pleasing perfection of this drink.

The menu focuses mostly on interpretations (but not deviations) of French bistro fare. To begin a Lyon salad. Frisee, a fried egg (fried perfectly), a few chunks of Benton's bacon, and a light vinagrette. Pierce the egg and listen for the songs of angels. Then a take on spaghetti carbonara; nuggets of gnocchi tossed in a black pepper cream sauce, parmesan cheese, and pork belly. Dear God, what have I done to deserve such earthly delights?

I spied via the mirrors our waitress walking from the bar area with a sheepish expression. I had a feeling of what that countenance meant. Sure enough, the wine we ordered was not available. Luckily, she suggested another wine to go with our entrees (and truth be told probably a better wine). 2005 Domaine Ligneres a wonderful, full bodied but not heavy red.

I got the duck. It rocked. Set atop a bacon, apple, and potato hash and some brussel sprouts (what a great idea), was a perfectly seared breast of duck. The dish evoked memories of Thanksgiving and Fall, football and sweaters which helped considering it was August.

Lindsay got the hangar steak with a mushroom and marrow demi glace. The dish was good but over time the salt began to dominate almost rendering the dish inedible. I add here that I am a salt fiend. A slight misstep.

Cheese plate for Lindsay. Three exceptional cheeses from St. James. I had the berry sorbet which was even better than I thought it would be. The sorbet was luxurious and thick, sweet but not cloying, and had a hint of tartness. Perfect palate cleanser so I could steal some cheese.

One can tell a lot about restaurants with how they do the little things. Coffee service sets good restaurants apart from great ones. The coffee used at Patois is from the Coffee Roasters of New Orleans. These almost mythical bean roasters remain elusive to my attempts to get some French roast, but I will find them. I feel very confident in saying that this is the best cup of coffee in New Orleans.

Service is efficient, friendly, and clumsily elegant at times. A spill of wine on the table cloth was met with a c'est la vie attitude. Not bad at all, rather it shows that this restaurant wants to be serious about food but also willing to have fun.

As we were getting ready to leave I saw an interesting sight. A maitre'd from Galatoire's (who I believe is also a Gooch) waiting patiently for a table. And then it hit me. The maitre'd at Patois (and an owner along with his father Leon and Chef Aaron Burgau) is Pierre Touzet. Pierre's grandfather, Leon, is from the same town in France that Jean Galatoire is from. Leon worked at Galatoire's. Pierre and Brian Landry grew up together and graduated from Jesuit the same year. The mirrors, a special with "crab butter," the service, the elegant, bistro food...Patois uses a similar gameplan to produce equally wonderful results.

Patois is a restaurant with its own distinct identity. However it uses, and I should add to its advantages, references to the familiarity and the memories of New Orleans diners to trigger Proustian reactions. All of it, the surroundings, the service, the food, the memories leave one happy and well fed. They could not have picked a better name for their version of a standard.

Birdie, with an eagle lurking.

Note: Patois will be closed for two weeks at the end of August. This is normal. But I suggest you be in line when they reopen.

Weekend in Review

Friday afternoon drinks at Bridge Lounge. Great spot only one problem. Everyone orders mojitos there. Which is great; although each one of those drinks requires numerous steps and considerable time. So sometimes getting an order in can take a while. On the flip side the bartenders have the forearms of a 15 year old boy. I am not at liberty to say which food journalist on New Orleans cuisine was also there, but lets just say he is easily the second or third most popular food journalist in New Orleans.

Another wonderful dinner at La Boca. That place is top notch. Pisco Sours, Provoleta, hangar steak for Lady, and flank for me. I got to admit the hangar steak beats the flank. Surprisingly fellow blogger Peter also showed up there for dinner (completely random) with the Palm Room Hostess, and two other law cronies. They too enjoyed their meal. Peter was coming off what many would consider a full weekend by 6 p.m. Friday evening: Lunch at Luke with the Papal Family, Old Absinthe House, 2 Hand Grenades and a lap dance. His evening continued; his dry cleaner thanked him the next day.

Then, the 25th Anniversary Rebirth Concert. Fellow Blue Jay Harry Connick, Jr. was in attendance; however the fight song was not sung. That concert blew me away. The best part about it was the Baby Boyz Brass Band; a group of tweens and teens that could really play. To me there is something so frightening and exciting about when the front line of a brass band, finishes a lyric and takes a step back before blasting notes into their instruments. That sight is the most joyous firing line one can imagine.

Saturday, Lady headed off to Shreveport for some baby shower thing. I stayed behind. The Crescent City Farmer's Market had Brian Landry of Galatoire's dolling out Shrimp Remoulade. What a breakfast. I picked up a brisket from Mr. Justin Pitts of Mississippi. Based on some personal instructions from Mr. Pitts and Steven Stryjewski of Cochon I slow-cooked that thing in a dutch oven for about 8 hours. I added a little crab boil, some creole tomatoes, onions and garlic and about a cup of water. What came out was heavenly and matched really well with the creole cream cheese grits I also made. Ok, so I totally stole that from Cochon. Judge if you must.

Saturday for lunch, before checking out The Dude's holdings, I grabbed a quick bite at Baru. A corn, cheese, pink sauce, and potato strips dish turned out to be the highlight. Sweet grilled corn, salty cheese, and then essentially mini-french fries. Also, a wonderful pair of flaky and just greasy enough to cure a hangover empanadas. The empanadas were served with this highly herbal concoction of parsley, cilantro, lime, and peppers. A tres leches cake that was really good but as I was dining solo became to sweet towards the end. Not Baru's fault; mine for having very few friends. Bring your own booze for now at Baru, but when that changes expect this place to really take off.

Sunday completely lazy. Cooked a rump roast by first triming it of some of its fat. Then, I studded the beast with garlic slivers. I then sliced the fat up into tiny pieces and used it to plug the holes where the garlic was and also to introduce fat into a pretty lean cut. Coated the rump in salt, pepper, Tony's, and garlic salt. Seared it on all sides; added onions, and deglazed with cognac and beef stock. Into the oven, covered, at 250 for about 7 hours. Served it over Romano cheese grits and with some caramelized red pearl onions. It tasted good. But the oven needs to go into hiding while the summer does what it does. Even better for lunch today as a po-boy, with Barqs, and Zapp's Cajun Crawtators.

That is in my book the definition of a New Orleans Weekend.