Jambalaya

Bad Bart's Black Jambalaya

Jambalaya is one of those iconic local dishes that is at the top of every tourist's list of foods to try when visiting New Orleans. After watching Bourdain's journey to Acadiana a few weeks ago, even I have been overcome with a craving for those one pot dishes that our neighbors to the west do oh so well. But while I have little difficulty recommending where to find a good roast beef po-boy, cub of gumbo, or a dozen oysters on the half shell, I'll be damned if I don't draw a blank nearly every time someone asks me where they can get a worthwhile plate of jambalaya in New Orleans.

When confronted with such an inquiry from an out of town guest, many people would probably say, "You know, jambalaya is one of the dishes that we always make at home, so I never to think to look for it, much less order it, at a restaurant. Plus jambalaya is a cajun dish, and New Orleans is all about creole." While I accept that most locals prefer their jambalaya homemade and that the dish is not indigenous to Southeast Louisiana, I refuse to believe that there is not a respectable restaurant version to be found in the city.

One of the best that I have tasted in recent times is Bad Bart's Black Jambalaya from Crescent Pie & Sausage Co. This jambalaya gets its brown color not from tomato but from the aromatic spices and black eyes peas, whose inclusion I had never before seen. This is not a sticky jambalaya (which I also enjoy); the short grain rice retains their individuality. There is a decent - but not disproportionately large - amount of chicken, pork and sausage, all thin slices as opposed to massive hunks. The black eyed peas sometimes cannot be seen, but their texture is noticeable in the rice in that the starch from the beans seems to envelope each grain of rice, adding meatiness without heft. The flavor is neither overpoweringly spicy nor do you immediately reach for a bottle of Crystal after the first bite.

I happen to have sampled some more of Bad Bart's Black yesterday before the game at the Crescent Pie and NOLA Brewing tailgate at the corner of Girod and Loyola. This bowl (pictured above) was not as dark in color and the flavors not as bold as usual, but it was still delicious.

So while we are on the subject, where else can one find a great bowl of jambalaya? K-Paul's is an obvious choice, but I can't say that I have had tried Chef Paul's version in more than 10 years. Is the Jambalaya Supreme at Coop's Place worth waiting in line for?  (Ian McNulty seemed to think so, back in 2003.) Does the jambalaya meat pie at Cochon count?

Let us know about your favorite jambalaya in today's comments.

Breakfast Goes Green

Eco Cafe prides itself as the greenest restaurant in the city, staying loyal to their ecological principles from the reclaimed products used in the renovation of the building to the cage-free eggs that are whipped into omelettes. "Hormone-free," "grass fed," and "organic" are all enticing characterizations in print, but the proof is on the plate.

The menu is reminiscent of the original Surrey's with it's extensive list of freshly squeezed juices and American breakfast classics mixed in with Latin flair. The juicer makes good use of ginger, herbs and other aromatics to create refreshing concoctions that are surely to perk up your morning without a caffeine jolt.

The food reads better than it actually tastes, but I would still recommend the restaurant for those looking for a wholesome way to start their Sunday morning. Geaux Grits (above) topped with fried eggs, crumbled bacon, and cheddar cheese, is one of those satisfying dishes which after finishing you think to yourself, "I could have made this at home, but I don't mind paying $8." Plantains make multiple appearances on the menu as grilled inch-thick rounds topped with sour cream. While I appreciate the kitchen's concern for my cholesterol, I much prefer a crunchy fried exterior to contrast with the soft flesh.

The house signature Chicken & Waffle Sandwich ($12) is a tower of fried chicken breast tenders between thick Belgian waffles. While the waffles were dry and lacked a desired crispness, the fried chicken was crisp on the outside, moist on the inside, and well seasoned. Solution: douse liberally with maple syrup. Huevos Rancheros ($9) is a nice choice but could use a little more punching up in terms of seasoning. The chili con carne omelet may be the best dish on the menu.

What the food may lack in terms of execution, the setting makes up for in terms of ambience. Large windows open up the wood floored dining room with plenty of natural light. Tall ceilings and well-spaced tables give both early and late morning risers plenty of room to stretch out and relax, which is the opposite case for most affordable restaurants who specialize in breakfast. And with the weather seeming to cool off with every turn of the daily calendar, the three tables outside have become highly coveted.

Eco Cafe (Breakfast/Brunch) - Par
3903 Canal St.
(504) 482-1225
Mon, Wed-Fri: 7:30am-2:30pm
Sat-Sun: 8:00am - 2:45pm
Closed Tuesday Starting 10/4/11

Working for the Weekend

When the Saints or Tigers play on a Thursday night, the weekend starts one day earlier in my book. So in honor of LSU's game tonight in Starkvegas, we are presenting the Weekend Roundup 24 hours ahead of schedule.

Friday

• Martini Madness - Friends of City Park hosts this 8th annual martinipalooza at the Pavilion of Two Sisters and the Botanical Gardens. The evening features an array of martinis and eats from area restaurants with all proceeds dedicated to landscaping the area around the newly constructed Arbor Room at Popp Fountain.  Tickets are $50 and can be purchased online.
• Scales & Ales - The Aquarium is not just for self serve sushi anymore. Sample wine and beer from more than 20 bars and cuisine from local restaurants. General admission tickets are $35 and can be purchased here.
• SoFAB - Join the Southern Food and Beverage Museum for its 4th Annual Gala, which this year will also be kicking off the third annual SoFAB Symposium, Hungry in the South. Specialty cocktails and wine will be poured by Glazer's and food will be provided by Bayona, Parkway Bakery, Broussard's, the American Sector, and more. Tickets for this 2 hour feast are $65 and should be purchased in advance.

Saturday

• SoFAB Symposium: Hungry in the South - The title of SoFAB's third annual symposium is inspired by the USDA’s 2009 Food Insecurity Report which found that hunger is most prevalent in the southern United States. Interpreting and expanding this theme will be presenters of all stripes - academics, policy-makers, chefs , writers and food historians - who will present a broad range of panels about the history of eating in the South. Besides the keynote and panels, the symposium includes the annual Contemporary Issues in Food presentation, tastings and food demonstrations, and much more.

Sunday

• Stand Up & Get Crunk - Need we say more?

Cooking With Wine

As soon as my grubby little paw grabbed the bottle of Curveball Spinning White Mad Max had stashed into his box of treats, I knew precisely what dish I wanted to make: Spaghetti Carbonara. Carbonara is one of the world's most perfect dishes, combining eggs, pork, cheese, pepper, and starch into an elegant sauce. Fact: carbonara is the only pasta dish in the world which can double as breakfast.

The composition of the Spinning White is an interesting one. At 85% Sauvignon Blanc and 15% Gewurztraminer there is a nice acidic kick but also this white plays very nicely with spicy foods. This wine is also made by Paul Hoffman. You can find it for under $20 at Cork & Bottle, Mondo, and Rum House.

A fattier chardonnay might be many peoples first choice with a dish like carbonara. I prefer something that can handle spice a bit better, which this wine can. The reason is that black pepper can lose a lot of its spicy and aromatic characters when you cook it above a certain temperature or cook it for long periods of time. With carbonara, you aren't doing much more than warming than pepper, so be prepared for a simple battery to your sinuses, if you make it correctly.

Note: The beauty of carbonara lies in its simplicity. Do not try to muck this up with North African Wild Hyssop or Guatemalan Coffee reductions. And if you do, please don't write in about it.

Spaghetti Carbonara

Like roast chicken, I almost never make carbonara the same way twice. One time I might use fettucine, another time one egg and one extra yolk, the third time I mix the bacon into the sauce first, etc... But always, the same 5 ingredients: pasta, eggs, cheese, pork, and black pepper. Normally, I substitute bacon and Parmesan for the traditional guanciale and Pecorino Romano and you can too.

Cut bacon strips into quarter inch rectangles. Fry until crisp then place on a paper napkin lined plate to drain. One package spaghetti, boil in heavily salted water. As you can see, you do not need a doctorate in culinary arts for this dish.

While, pasta is boiling crack an egg into a deep bowl. Grate roughly a half cup of Parmesan over the egg. Whisk. Now take a pepper mill and crank it twenty times. Whisk again. Few more cranks and you should be ready to go.

Once cooked, drain the pasta but reserve a smidge of the starchy, salted water. Add the pasta and the water into the bowl and mix rapidly. The warm pasta will melt the cheese, warm the eggs, and awaken the pepper, essentially playing the role of the Uniter. Once combined, mount on plates and top with bacon, more cheese, and a crack or two of pepper.

The Maestro

Patrick van Hoorebeck recently opened Patrick's Bar Vin in the St. Louis Hotel. A native of Belgium, The Maestro as he is known in certain circles, has lived in New Orleans for the last twenty-five years. As the king for life (redundant, yes but in Carnival speak) of the Krewe of Cork he has found a way to combine business and pleasure at his new bar. Let's put twentyish questions on the clock and get to know The Maestro.


Photo courtesy of Judi Bottoni.

While in Belgium I was working as a beer salesman for a brewery which had a beer called Vieux Temps (Old Times). I sold a lot of that beer so the men at the brewery called me Patia Vieux Temps, which translates as Pat Old Times. I had not seen my father in twenty years. He was living in Lafayette, I flew to New Orleans in June 1986. He picked me up at the airport and took me to Bourbon Street. I walked onto Bourbon St. and saw a sign for Pat O's and thought, "How cool is that?" So my father and I went into the bar and had a Hurricane. At the time I asked my father, "How long till the day there is a bar in the Quarter with my name on it?" He told me, "I don't think I'll live long enough." He was right.

My name full name is Patrick Philippe Daniel August van Hoorebeck, my sister's name is Evelyn. Our father loved Irish whiskey and ran a bar called the Old Irish Inn in Brussels. I ask him one day why we, proud Belgians, had Irish names and he told me that "Before he met our mother, he fell in love with an Irish girl."

We wanted to open the bar on St. Patrick's Day, but completion of the bar was delayed because of the wine bins. We ordered them in November from a company in California and they told us they would be here in three months. Six months later they arrived and we opened on Belgian Independence Day.

Joe Yaeger, who owns the hotel, asked me what I wanted to do. I told him there was no true wine bar in the French Quarter. There is the New Orleans Grapevine, but that has evolved into a restaurant. So, Mr. Joe bought this hotel and this spot had a liquor license already. So we sat down and had a talk and this bar was uncorked.

Like any bar owner, I want to make this a successful business. But also, I want to create a libation emporium, a spot where every drinker can find his vice.

With wine, people in United States drink better products, know more about wine, and educate their palates better now then they did when I first got here. But wine is still a trend in America. I can see in next ten years wine consumption going up and hard alcohol staying same or dropping a bit.

I've been drinking since I was very young. When my father had a restaurant in Brussels, he would take me to go see his wine distributor. The guy who owned the place, to entertain me while they tasted wine, would hand me a cigar box filled with labels and a book of wines. I would sit there and whenever I matched the wine in the book to a label, he would give me a franc to buy candy with. So I learned to become familiar with names and labels. When we would go to restaurants on Monday nights, I would always get a sip of whatever my dad was drinking.

The wine I chased, and caught eventually, was a very special wine. In 1964 after my parents had divorced, I was a skinny, feeble kid. Maybe I was depressed or mad or something, but we didn't have those terms when I was a kid. So, in 1964 my father takes me Switzerland when I am ten years old to place me in boarding school. We spend the night in the Grand Hotel de Montrieux and had dinner. At that dinner he ordered a 1954 Chateau Haut Brion. We drink it and he tells me (begins to tear up), "Patrick, you are going to boarding school tomorrow. But tonight we will drink this wine from the year of your birth. My wish is that someday you will drink this same wine at another time in your life." I did that two years ago in Las Vegas and it cost me a pretty penny (laughs).

With this wine list, I had to keep in mind that I had a budget which is not something I'd had to worry about before. But I did not want the list to become pretentious. I also filled the list with wines from people whose relationships and support I cherish, the wines of previous Grand Marshals of the Krewe of Cork, and wines from how do you say The Good Old School Club (Editor's Note: he means Good Ole Boys Club). You know the expression politically correct? Sometimes you have to be wine correct.

Next month we are going to start a Reserve Wine List. That list will have wines from the private collections of 2-3 men in town whose wines I will sell on a consignment basis. So that will be the high end, while on the low end I'll always have what we call the vin de patron - a wine the owner drinks which is at $20 a bottle. Right now that is a red from the Languedoc, that I drink myself and only $20 a bottle. That is amazing.

Running a bar in the French Quarter has caused us to invent a term. You know that movie Wedding Crashers? Well, there are Bar Crashers in the French Quarter - guys who stumble in at 11 pm, just because they see a light, who can't see much else and they just want another beer. They are very drunk and probably do not even know where they are.

Keeping it fun is intentional. Wine can get very serious if people let it. All of our signature cocktails feature wine or wine based liquors as the main ingredient. Things like Lillet. With our cocktails we like to keep simply simple. Let me say this, I have a lot of respect for modern cocktails and mixologists. But when I go into a bar with a good buzz and it takes them 15 minutes to get me a drink, I get aggravated. Do not waste a good buzz.

Put it this way, you are going out to dinner with your wife or girlfriend. And first you say, "let's get a drink." So you go somewhere and want an aperitif, which you know comes from the Latin word "to open." You want a drink to stimulate your palate, open you up. They already make drinks for this like Campari, Vermouth. There is no need to order an elaborate drink that costs you $32 for two drinks. Just order two sherries or Camparis at $6 a piece.

I am a white burgundy guy. When on a budget, I will tolerate Macon-Villages. Pouilly-Fuisse will be deja vu. I like to be drinking Meursault-Chassigny and Puligny-Montrachet. If I win the lotto, Batard-Montrachet.

I do not like the markup in the wine business. But it is what it is. But I don't like it. My father would say, whatever you buy wine for, sell it for double. But big business believes everything has to have a margin of 350% to be profitable. It rips people off and I dont like it.

New World wines have a friendliness to them that Old World wines do not. Wine is like a woman. Any woman can put a smile on your face, but the question is is that a real smile.

The French are bored with wine. Look, you have this young generation. They see wine everyday, their grandfather drinks wine, their mother drinks wine, wine is everywhere. Wine is boring to them. Over ten years ago, I went to France with a girlfriend who only drank martinis. I brought a shaker with me and would go to the bar and find out if they had vodka. If you asked for a martini, they would ask White or Red (he points to bar where two bottles of Martini vermouth sit). No one in France had heard of Grey Goose. Now, Grey Goose is a symbol of French pride and everyone drinks it. The French aren't drinking as much wine as before because of a generational shift and boredom, that is all.

Best advice to people who are beginning to build wine collections is to be patient. Before you go to a store, get on winery mailing lists of wines you like. And most of all, when you go into a restaurant, always order a wine you don't know anything about. Like driving a car. You may love Mercedes Benz's, but there is nothing wrong with test driving a Jaguar now and then.

Romanee-Conti and Cheval Blanc, to start. Some Chateauneuf-du-Pape, of course, Hermitage, Chateau Haut Brion, Margaux, and Batard-Montrachet. Richebourg, Champagne, California Cab, Sauternes, and Vintage Port, that would be a nice case of wine.

At end of day, I want a big glass of beer. Everywhere you go in the wine world, every wine maker say, "It takes a lot of beer to make good wine." And it is true.

Living in the French Quarter is living as a Bohemian. If the French Quarter did not exist, I would be back in Brussels. I went back to Belgium many years ago, and my friends asked me why I stayed in America. They would tease me and say, "Tell us, come on, you stay in America because you fell in love with a woman." I would say back to them, "No, I fell in love with the French Quarter."

WTF?

I hit the tipping point (pun intended) at lunch on Thursday at Mahony's.

A 7 person work party traveled in 2 different cars to lunch, and I was with the first group of 3 to arrive. As we placed our order at the counter, the remainder of our squad walked in. The girl working the register asked if we were all together, to which we replied yes, thinking that she would just put every order under one name even though we were paying separately.

Then she layed the smack down like Tyron Mathieu on an unsuspecting Northwestern State wide receiver coming across the middle.

"OK, we have a 15% gratuity charge for parties of 6 or more."

Say what?

I struggled to hold back from unleashing a list of sarcastic inquiries as to exactly what service would be performed to warrant this added charge. But I have experience as the low man on the totem pole who often unjustly receives the lion's share of customer complaints, most of which are based on managerial decisions over which the victim of the tirade exercises no control. So I bit my tongue, took a picture of the receipt, enjoyed the onion rings as always, toughed it out through a terribly dry cochon de lait po-boy, and walked out the door feeling that the time had come to take a stand.

In my humble opinion, yelling out my name when my order is ready and then carrying my po-boy from the counter to my table does not constitute "service". Don't get me wrong - all of the employees were smiling, courteous, and performed their duties well. But at no time did anyone walk over to our table and offer to refill our drinks, fetch extra napkins, or ask if we were enjoying our food.

I understand that large parties have the tendency to linger and occupy coveted table space for longer periods of time than a deuce or 4 top would. But Thursday lunch at Mahony's is not the courtyard at Bayona on a beautiful Friday afternoon in spring or the dining room at Stella on Valentine's Day. I understand that volume is the name of the game and that the faster the tables turn, the more money a restaurateur makes. Had gratuity not been automatically added, I probably would have dropped a dollar or two in the tip jar. I do the same when I go to Felipe's, The Store, Creole Creamery, and the like. But at all of the aforementioned, it is my option to do so.

But we are still talking about a po-boy shop that bills itself as "a tribute/throw-back to the old neighborhood Po-Boy shops of New Orleans". I wonder if Clarence & Lefty's had a similar policy?

New Orleans Seafood Festival

Tough loss last night. Let's rememeber that the Pack is probably the best team that we will play all season. Moving on.

Today marks the beginning of the New Orleans Seafood Festival, which this year has been extended to 3 days of food, music, arts, crafts, and chef demonstrations to benefit the Louisiana Hospitality Foundation.  The setting is Lafayette Square, of course, which should make for a perfect setting considering the cooler weather that started this week.

Here is a list of the participating restaurants and their offerings:

• Acme Oyster House - Shrimp Po-boys, Oyster Po-boys
• Remoulade - Shrimp Cajun Eggrolls; Crawfish Pie; Meat Pies, Fried Fruit Pies
• Café Giovanni - Voodoo Shrimp, Chicken & Sausage Gumbo, Strawberries and Sweet Cream
• Drago's - Charbroiled Oysters, Bread Pudding
• Galatoire's - Shrimp Remoulade, Fried Shrimp BLT Po-boy
• Saltwater Grill - Cochon de lait Po-boy, Crabcake Salad with Remoulade, Crawfish & Spinach Boat
• Mr. B's Bistro - Seafood Stew in Puff Pastry; Creole Gazpacho with Louisiana Lump Crabmeat
• 7 on Fulton - Seafood Gumbo, Seafood Sausage Po-boy
• Pigeon Caterers - Shrimp Creole & Rice, Crabcakes or Crawfish Cakes with Remoulade Sauce
• Luke - Chile Crunch Shrimp & Spicy Pork Belly Po-boy with Pickled Hahnville Cabbage
• Serrano's Salsa Company - Grilled Fish Tacos, Crab Cake Sliders, Passion Burger Sliders
• Mr. Mudbug/King - Creole Shrimp and Crab Penne Pasta, Red Beans & Rice
• Royal House - Zydedo Stick, Gator Sliders
• Ninja Restaurant - Soft Shell Crab Po-boy, Catfish Po-boy
• Grand Isle Restaurant - Spicy Shrimp, Crab Fritters
• TJ Gourmet - Crawfish Bread, Crawfish Sausage Kabob, Mango Sorbet

What Dat You Drinking

Sorry WNBA, but football is back and no one cares about your sport again. That's right food fans, the Saints of New Orleans open the NFL Season on the road on the Frozen Margarita Tundra owned by the Packers of Green Bay. The excitement in households across America is palpable as people wake up, rub the sleep from their eyes, and come to the realization that there is an NFL game on tonight and they don't have to watch Real Housewives of Minneapolis. Productivity will drop to near historic lows as offices switch their focus to more important things like whether or not to call their fantasy football team We Must Protect This Winehouse.

So to help you help yourself, we enlisted the help of some alcohol pros, Joe Briand and Jeremy Labadie of Carte des Vins and TheBeerBuddha.com respectively to tell us what you need to be sipping on tonight. Notice we left cocktails off? That is because you only need to know the name Dark n Stormy, great drink and if you use your imagination it is Black and Gold.  Even if you hate football, I have a feeling after the President's jobs speech we are all going to need a drink.

Beer Buddha -  LOCAL, LOCAL, LOCAL!!!!


Covington Brewhouse Ponchartrain Pilsner- This refreshing,  german style pilsner is an easy drinking local brew with a nice malty profile and subtle hint of hops.  Available:  Steins Deli, Cork & Bottle, Rouses.


Tin Roof Perfect Ten Amber -  This canned offering from Tin Roof has an nice aggressive maltiness which is perfectly balanced with a grassy hop bitterness.  Available:  Steins Deli, Cork & Bottle

NOLA Brewing Hopitoulas Draft Pack- For those that want a little bite in your brew this IPA is for you!  Hopitoulas has an amazing piney, hop bitterness with hints of grapefruit but is balanced well with a nice, subtle caramel maltiness.  Available:  Cork & Bottle, Rouses, Whole Foods

Joe Briand

Terriero Prosecco $15 – Pronounced Pro-Sack-O on game days.  I never ice down champagne until the game is over but I’ll drink a nice crisp clean Prosecco all game long.  Prosecco is great for fried and fatty game day foods and can cut through the fat of Nachos or anything else “cheesy.”

Etrna Flor Montsant Blanco 2009 $18- This Spanish white is 70% Grenache Blanc and 30% Macabeo.  I recommend this because it is a white with a bit of weight (from the Grenache blanc) as well as great minerality.  I like versatile wines like this because they appeal to both the Chardonnay set as well as the wine geek set.  Great with chicken, pork and can stand up to some spice as well.

I think Cotes du Rhone might be one of the great game day wines.  It is affordable, usually drinks well above its pay grade and has the weight big Cab drinkers like and the soft roundness that Grenache from the Rhone valley delivers in bunches.  If you prefer the bigger more fruit forward style search out a 2007 and if you’re looking for a little more refinement search out one of the newly released 2009s.  I’m recommending 2 different Cotes du Rhones today.

Undrafted rookie budget: Vidal-Fleury Cotes du Rhone 2007 $10

Long Term extension Contract- Saint-Damien Cotes du Rhone “La Bouveau” 2009 $15

Tale of the Tape

The other week Peter and I debated the merits of fine dining vs. casual dining. One of the points made was that casual dining is no longer casually priced. As an example, I mentioned that a recent casual meal at Domenica set us back $200.Chefs keep opening casual spots because they tell us, "This is what the public wants in these tough times" or "I just want to serve food without all the BS". These are noble goals, but are we as consumers getting hosed on value?

For comparison sake, let's compare and contrast the two meals using the Warren Buffet definition of value v. price wherein, "Price is what you pay, value is what you get." Both meals were very good to excellent from a food perspective. Both Domenica and Restaurant August are headed by talented, young chefs, Alon Shaya and Michael Gulotta, respectively. This comparison only uses the experiences to compare the cost to find out which meal had a better value.

Opening Impressions

Domenica - Placemats double as menus, hard surfaces predominant, and room is loud in a good and festive way, bottle of water placed on table.

August - Cloth bound menus, although one seam of my menu was nearly split, tablecloths, noise level moderate, bottle of Cava to start.

Food

Domenica - Starters included the always delicious octopus carpaccio ($12) with its thin coins of briny tenderness offset by shards of fennel and citrus. Also had the crema fritta ($14), an Italian mornay sauce essentially, that is cooled to a consistency harder than a pudding but softer than a solid, then fried. The braised goat ($28) came out in a cauldron studded with baby vegetables and was delicious and filling. The other entree on the table was a simple pizza, the tutto carne ($13) loaded with fennel sausage, bacon, salami, and Cotechino cheese. Dessert was the always reliable frittole ($8).

August - After placing order, the first course to arrive was an amuse bouche, cubes of pork belly with a spicy glaze (gratis). Next up was a shared first course baby beets ($17) split into quarters sitting atop pristine jumbo lump crab, all accented by baby greens and a tart vinaigrette. Then a bowl of ramen with a pork and shrimp broth ($14) and a tortelli with chanterelles and bone marrow ($16). Entrees were next and included an overcooked duck breast ($37, the only dud of the night) and the pork three ways ($36), the pork tenderloin wrapped in crispy dough, being one of the best things I've eaten in 2010. No dessert, but mignardises of chocolates, pralines, and other candies.

Wine

Domenica - Asked the waitress for a recommendation of something different and she suggested an Italian pinot noir ($65). Unfortunately, the wine lacked acid or structure to stand up to the gutsy cooking. Blame myself though, pinot is a French grape. The glass of limoncello at the end, however was perfect.

August - Juve Y Camps Cava ($45) to start, which was lovely with all of the starters. And then the sommelier suggested an '08 Hautes Cotes de Baune ($90) to round out the meal. I'd order both wines again, but if pressed two bottles of the Cava.

Service

Domenica - The service fits the restaurant. It is unpretentious and driven to make you happy. Any hiccups are readily fixed. Of all the Besh satellites, this is the most complete.

August - Despite the frayed menu (yes, it is stupid to dwell on, but so simple) service was flawless. The courses were timed perfectly and anyone on the floor could answer any question with ease and grace.

Final Cost with tax and tip

Domenica - $200

August - $325

Value winner? August, hands down. Now listen, I spend a lot of money on restaurants. Money that could certainly be put to better use elsewhere. I know that spending this much money on food goes against the teachings of at least three major religions and two political theories. But dining out is a hobby. Given the option, I'd forgo one and half meals at Domenica for one at Restaurant August. Your values, may and will differ. What is your definition of value in a meal?

Quinoa Caprese

The Folk Singer goes gaga over the combination of tomato, fresh mozzarella, basil, and balsamic vinegar. So much so that she was forced to improvise beyond the traditional caprese salad to avoid the impending mutiny that I had been threatening after the sixth consecutive week of red, white, and green.

Folk lore has it that South Louisiana natives eat more rice than any other regional people save for those in the Far East. At the CBD branch of Blackened Out, we do our part by utitilizing the rice cooker we purchased from Hong Kong market a year ago. (More on this incredible appliance at a later date; let's just say that it was the best $20 we ever spent.) But man cannot live on rice alone, so we were glad to discover that the rice cooker does a bang up job with quinoa, an often overlooked grain which adds a nice diversity to our limited culinary repertoire.

Quinoa Caprese

• Ingredients
• Quinoa (1 cup)
• Fresh Mozzarella (1/2 lb)
• Grape or Cherry Tomatoes (1 pint)
• Basil (1 bunch)
• Balsamic Vinegar (1/2 cup)
• Directions
• Rinse quinoa in a strainer for 15 minutes.
• Place quinoa in rice cooker with a shade less than 2 cups of water.
• If using stovetop, bring water to a boil, add quinoa, cover and simmer for 10-15 minutes.
• Remove quinoa from cooking vessel and fluff with a fork, then set aside to cool.
• Place balsamic vinegar in a saucepan on medium and reduce by half. Cool after reducing.
• Cut tomatoes in half (or quarter if tomatoes are larger) and cut mozzarella in a similar size.
• Chop basil.
• After all ingredients have cooled, throw them in a bowl and stir to combine.

Grill steak and serve quinoa salad on the side.

Happy Labor Day Weekend

Labor Day is here. Can you believe it? Seems like just yesterday we were complaining about the August heat. Labor Day, as you well know, was begun in 1932 to honor and celebrate moms who give birth. Because it traditionally marks the end of Summer, Labor Day is a wonderful time to fire up the grill, burn stuff, and shoot pyrotechnics into the air. Also, if you have been dating a gal you met at The Sands Beach Club who goes to college back East, it is time to break up.

To get you excited for Labor Day festivities, here is a photo of what happens when you park a 4 pound brisket on a Big Green Egg for 6 hours at 250 degrees.

Happy Labor Day to you and the woman who gave birth to you.

Banana Blossom

Thai usually runs a distant 4th behind Chinese, Japanese and Vietnamese as the most popular Far East cuisine in the New Orleans area. But in our September review for OffBeat, we profile a restaurant which has the potential to propel Bourbon Noodles to the prominence that it deserves.

The surprisingly short journey down Belle Chasse Hwy leads to a non-descript strip mall with a sign that only announces "THAI". You will not find the stars of "Most Eligible Dallas" hanging out in Banana Blossom. The location and ambience do not provide a conducive setting for your standard Friday dinner date with three women. (Then again, your faithful bloggers are not the formative authority on that subject.)

But the food is excellent and affordable. Start with the roti, a griddled flatbread served with a thin red curry sauce for dippping, and the fried baby back ribs dunked in the accompanying vinegary chili sauce. You can rationalize your previous courses by finishing with the mixed veggie and tofu Bourbon Noodle, the texture of which is so light and delicate that it reminds me of the stracci pasta at Domenica. Vegetarianism never tasted so good.

Banana Blossom - Birdie
2112 Belle Chasse Hwy, Suite 10
(504) 392-7530
Lunch & Dinner: Mon-Sat