On the Road - Austin

I crossed the border last week for a wedding in Austin and visited a few of my old haunts as well as a couple of new places that have received some recent buzz.

The Folk Singer is a big fan of the Food Network, so her one request on this trip was that we eat at Flip Happy Crepes, where Bobby Flay once battled in one of his "Throwdowns." I am a huge fan of crepes, so I was happy to oblige ... and I am glad I did. We tried the shredded pork with cheddar cheese, pickles, & Tabasco (which was the savory crepe which was made for the "Throwdown"), and the roasted chicken with mushrooms, gruyere, & carmelized onions. Both crepes were very rich, but what I found most appealing was how the ingredients melted together so that you could taste each flavor in every bite. We finished it off with two sweet crepes: lemon curd with blueberry dressing (pictured right), and one with generous smear of Nutella, which may be my favorite dessert in the world.

Friday night we dined at Lambert's, an "upscale" BBQ joint co-owned by a friend of mine named Larry. My plan of just ordering a few small plates was quickly tossed out once we heard the special: a 40oz. porterhouse covered in an ancho chile rub and paired with four-cheese flautas. The steak was overcooked past medium-rare, but the flavor was spot-on. An appetizer of fried green tomatoes topped with crabmeat made for a nice starter. I wish I would have been hungrier though because the side dishes sounded amazing - green chile cheese grits and four-cheese macaroni just to name a few.

Finally, on Saturday we went to what in my opinion is the best place in Austin to mitigate the effects of your morning-after hangover: Maudie's. It's not the best Tex-Mex in the world, but it's one of my favorites. I could not decide whether to order the chicken enchiladas with the verde sauce or the vegetarian cheese enchiladas with the roja sauce. I thought: "WWTPD?" or "What Would The Pope Do?" So, of course, I ordered both. I tried to stop eating with just a few bites left, but our waiter implored me to keep going. When I finally finished, I asked TFS if she was proud of me. The waiter chimed in: "Dude, I don't even know you, and I am proud of you."

For Lunch Today...

There is a game Chefs (especially Bourdain) like to play where they ask each other what meal would they choose for their last meal. In fact there is a terrific coffee table book on the subject; your scribe has a birthday coming up. Hint.

Well, in thinking about the subject its really a no brainer for me. And so this is what you should have for lunch today. Go by St. James and pick up a few thick slices of Cochon's bacon. Fry it till it is extra crispy. Mayo coats the inside of two slices of white Bunny bread.

Pair the above with a a 2005 Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

Local Dialect

Something familiar about this place. Mirrors on the walls, elegant yet casual, good food, attentive service; can't quite put my finger on it.

Last Saturday Lindsay (Lady tired of "such a lame nickname") and I dined at Patois. Patois, on the corner of Laurel and Webster, is a French word denoting a local dialect. That certainly is apparent in both the food and the restaurant itself.

The interior evokes memories of a Caribbean house with neutral colors, high ceilings, and large windows. A bar area leads to a raised dining room which gives ample opportunity to people watch.

We began with some cocktails, and why not? Lindsay had The Contessa which combined candied ginger and champagne. I had the White Lily which blended together egg white, gin, muddled cucumber, and sugar. What resulted was both creamy and refreshing. The sea cap white froth with traces of almost cerulean undertones provided visual stimuli to match the palate pleasing perfection of this drink.

The menu focuses mostly on interpretations (but not deviations) of French bistro fare. To begin a Lyon salad. Frisee, a fried egg (fried perfectly), a few chunks of Benton's bacon, and a light vinagrette. Pierce the egg and listen for the songs of angels. Then a take on spaghetti carbonara; nuggets of gnocchi tossed in a black pepper cream sauce, parmesan cheese, and pork belly. Dear God, what have I done to deserve such earthly delights?

I spied via the mirrors our waitress walking from the bar area with a sheepish expression. I had a feeling of what that countenance meant. Sure enough, the wine we ordered was not available. Luckily, she suggested another wine to go with our entrees (and truth be told probably a better wine). 2005 Domaine Ligneres a wonderful, full bodied but not heavy red.

I got the duck. It rocked. Set atop a bacon, apple, and potato hash and some brussel sprouts (what a great idea), was a perfectly seared breast of duck. The dish evoked memories of Thanksgiving and Fall, football and sweaters which helped considering it was August.

Lindsay got the hangar steak with a mushroom and marrow demi glace. The dish was good but over time the salt began to dominate almost rendering the dish inedible. I add here that I am a salt fiend. A slight misstep.

Cheese plate for Lindsay. Three exceptional cheeses from St. James. I had the berry sorbet which was even better than I thought it would be. The sorbet was luxurious and thick, sweet but not cloying, and had a hint of tartness. Perfect palate cleanser so I could steal some cheese.

One can tell a lot about restaurants with how they do the little things. Coffee service sets good restaurants apart from great ones. The coffee used at Patois is from the Coffee Roasters of New Orleans. These almost mythical bean roasters remain elusive to my attempts to get some French roast, but I will find them. I feel very confident in saying that this is the best cup of coffee in New Orleans.

Service is efficient, friendly, and clumsily elegant at times. A spill of wine on the table cloth was met with a c'est la vie attitude. Not bad at all, rather it shows that this restaurant wants to be serious about food but also willing to have fun.

As we were getting ready to leave I saw an interesting sight. A maitre'd from Galatoire's (who I believe is also a Gooch) waiting patiently for a table. And then it hit me. The maitre'd at Patois (and an owner along with his father Leon and Chef Aaron Burgau) is Pierre Touzet. Pierre's grandfather, Leon, is from the same town in France that Jean Galatoire is from. Leon worked at Galatoire's. Pierre and Brian Landry grew up together and graduated from Jesuit the same year. The mirrors, a special with "crab butter," the service, the elegant, bistro food...Patois uses a similar gameplan to produce equally wonderful results.

Patois is a restaurant with its own distinct identity. However it uses, and I should add to its advantages, references to the familiarity and the memories of New Orleans diners to trigger Proustian reactions. All of it, the surroundings, the service, the food, the memories leave one happy and well fed. They could not have picked a better name for their version of a standard.

Birdie, with an eagle lurking.

Note: Patois will be closed for two weeks at the end of August. This is normal. But I suggest you be in line when they reopen.

Charlie's Steakhouse

Has quietly reopened and is slated to open Thursday, August 14, according to Fr. Tom's Radio Show and a caller.

My friends call me T-Bone.

For Lunch Today...

I'm craving Vietnamese and that only means one thing: get out your $1 bills, we are headed to the Westbank. I can't wait to go to Nine Roses and get the pork meatballs and char-grilled pork and the infamous #9.... Wait.... Why are the no cars in the Nine Roses parking lot?

F*ck. Today is Wednesday. Nine Roses is closed on Wednesday. M*ther f*cker.

But there is always the old reliable Pho Tau Bay. Had the Mid City location reopened after Katrina, I would be eating Pho Tau Bay a lot more often than I do now. Pre-K, I would make weekly trips for those delectable banh mi and spring rolls. The banh mi - commonly known as "Vietnamese style po-boys" - start with a magnificent specimen of french bread, which is not surprising considering that Vietnamese bakers were taught by their former colonial rulers from France. (Go back to your 8th grade history course: Vietnam used to be French Indochina.) These crusty rolls are then filled with your choice of a wondrous array of meats: slices of char-grilled pork, stir-fried chicken, homemade rolled ham, or the special chicken liver sausage. Throw on some julienne vegetables, add some hot peppers, and then slather the bread with homemade mayo. Damn, that's a good sandwich.

Oh, did I mention that most of the banh mi cost under $5? At that price, you can afford two. Some might call that "gluttonous." At Blackened Out, we call that "fiscal responsibility."

A Look Ahead to the Weekend

Are you going to be in New Orleans this weekend? Maybe for a wedding? Looking for something to do to pass the time? Want to get a jump on your Christmas shopping? Well, you could go to SOFAB on Saturday at 11 am to hear Susan Spicer of Bayona talk about her runaway best seller "Crescent City Cooking."

Spicer's tome chronicles not only her style of cooking, but New Orleans cuisine as well, and not just the French elements. Rather Spicer explores the varied and complex food traditions and influences that shape her cooking view and ultimately New Orleans cuisine. Following a presentation, Chef Spicer will sign copies of her book.

If you are a museum member, the cost is free. If not admission to the museum is $10 and the seminar is free.

Plus, you can take a look at the mess on the river.

Monday is the New Friday

I know that you have heard this song and dance before, but half-priced wines at Vega on Monday is a steal. Here are a few pictures from my last dinner there.

We started with a cheese board which included that awesome fig mustard. Then we moved onto the Ensalata de Vaca - seared beef, shaved red onion, gorgonzola, grapes and baby greens tossed in peppercorn dressing

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For all of the vegetarians out there, these next two dishes are for you. First, the Eggplant Napoleon - thick slices of eggplant layered with fresh mozzarella, arugula and oven-dried tomatoes, drizzled with duo of sun-dried tomato and basil pestoes. Next, grilled artichokes basted with lemon, butter, and olive oil, and topped with crumbled feta. (Don't let the picture fool you: the artichokes come 3 to an order, but The Folk Singer could not control herself.) I guess you could leave out the mozzarella and feta if you are a vegan, but let's not get too crazy.

We finished with Moroccan spiced pork ribs, which I know our formidable adversary is a big fan of, but I must say that I respectfully disagree with him on this one. The ribs were cooked perfectly, but the spice combination was not for me. To each his own.

For Lunch Today...And a Piece of Gossip

Ok so you have been dealing with clerks, interns, jerks, and dweebs all summer long. Maybe today is their last day, maybe it was last week, regardless you owe yourself a treat. So how about Restaurant August. Why that is too expensive, you say. Well define expensive. And then take a look at the lunch menu. I think you will find the prices quite reasonable. Menu is subject to change as Chef Besh and staff only use what is fresh and as a result the menu is constantly evolving.

I think I would start with either the Buster Crabs or the oysters. Of course if you are dining with Peter, he will look at the waiter with those puppy dog eyes of his and ask for the Foi Gras Trio. If so, good choice for dining with Peter.

Then either the rabbit roulade or the veal, although one can never go wrong with fish. Maybe a little cheese selection and an espresso. Then back to the office to get some real work done.

Happy Saints Post-First Preaseason victory of the year!

Also, I heard it from a little birdie the other day that Donald Link is working on a cookbook which will explore and celebrate the cooking of his grandfathers. Stay tuned.

And I'm Hungry Like the Woooooooolfe

This past Saturday was White Linen Night in the Warehouse District, which I attended with The Folk Singer, the Legal Eagles, and the recently returned Parisian Princess who is making a brief stop in NOLA before moving to NYC for graduate school at Sotheby's (rough life, huh?). I usually enjoy walking through galleries (especially with a mojito in hand) even though I really am not sure what I am looking at or why I like it, but normally the galleries are filled with air condition. As most of you know, it is always unbearably hot and humid on White Linen Night, and this year was no different. But we still had a great time, the highlights of which were the sketches from the original Edwin Edwards trial and Mrs. Legal Eagle being asked to participate in a photo spread for the Times Picayune.

Then we decided to eat dinner at Wolfe's in the Warehouse, and the rest was gastronomical bliss. No one ever talks about this place. Why? Because they don't have a website? Because it is hidden away on Fulton Street? Because it's a hotel restaurant? Probably all of the above. I had never eaten there before, and you probably have not either. But after my meal I am sad to say that I have waited this long to go.

The space is huge (probably 150 seats), and the tables are spread out - which are two great characteristics if the restaurant is crowded but probably a deterrence to prospective diners on slower nights. One of the unique touches is the inclusion of a few recessed tables which can be curtained off for an intimate dining experience. The service was well polished, especially our waiter Roy who was the consummate professional.

I must confess that The Pope is somewhat a celebrity at Wolfe's, so we had a few special treats throughout the meal. First was an amuse bouche of bruschetta with cherry tomatoes and fresh mozzarella. Unfortunately there were only two servings left, so TFS and PP got the nod. (Why them and not me? I don't know. Something to do with chivalry, but I was so pissed that I did not get my own that I stopped listening to whatever Roy was saying.) TFS gave me a bite of hers though out of pity, and I must say that it was deliciously salty - just how I like it.

Next we had the regular amuse of truffled potato chips with a potato leek cream for dipping. Wow. The chips were light and crisp and topped with a bit of shaved white truffle, but the cream was so good that it made an encore appearance during the main course.


We decided to share a first course, but then another starter unexpectedly arrived courtesy of La Papa: seared foie gras on top of duck sausage. Wow. The sausage was a course grind, formed into a patty, and then breaded and fried. The smooth texture of the foie gras contrasted well with the crunchy exterior of the sausage. I could go on, but a picture is worth a thousand words. Our intended appetizer was beef satay, but honestly, I was too involved with the foie gras to remember much about that dish.


For the salad course, the ladies had the petit chopped salad - mixed greens, tomato, and avocado topped with crabmeat. This dish is not currently on the menu, but La Papa gave us the inside tip. However, I was the hands down winner with the duck confit salad - warm, shredded confit of duck and Maytag blue cheese served atop bitter greens which were drizzled with a black cherry demi and sprinkled with candied pecans. I made the mistake of offering PP a taste ... she never switched back with me.

As if that wasn't enough, we still had our main courses to come. TFS had the filet, PP had the scallops, and I had a ribeye which appeared to be 28oz yet it was not bone-in. The filet was cooked perfectly, but the ribeye was had been undercooked from the requested temperature of medium rare. Nothing a few more seconds on the grill could not fix, and I would much rather have my steak under as opposed to overcooked. Oh yeah, and we requested that potato leek cream as a sauce.

Altogether, the meal was fantastic. My only regret was that we were too full for dessert, but we had the next day's Louisiana Food Expo on our minds ....

Wolfe's in the Warehouse - Birdie.

* Coincidentally, shortly after my meal at Wolfe's I learned that Chef Tom Wolfe's restaurant Peristyle would be closing its doors this weekend. Another classic French restaurant is lost, but I hope the squab and white chocolate butter bars find their way onto the menu at Wolfe's

Lazy Magnolia, Blossoms Bloomin

This weekend Le Bucket and I had the pleasure of learning all about the Lazy Magnolia brewery at the Southern Food and Beverage Museum. Lazy Magnolia brewery began, as all true passions in life, as a hobby for husband and wife Mark and Leslie Henderson. Both of them are engineers and one year for Christmas Leslie gave Mark a brew kit. Four years later they were brewing beer as a business.

The operation is based out of Kiln, Mississippi. That is the same home town as Brett Favre. Brett Favre does not drink beer anymore. Lazy Magnolia's most famous brew is the delightful Southern Pecan Nut Brown Ale. The Henderson's kindly brought along some bottles for everyone to try. The pecan flavor asserts itself in a subtle manner about 2/3rds of the way through the brick. One of the more interesting uses of this beer, that they recommended, layers the Pecan Ale and Guinness for Pralines and Cream dessert beer. That sounds good enough to be a main course.

The beer selection from Lazy Magnolia is heavily linked to food and brewed with the South's climate in mind. The Sweet Potato Cream Stout uses the starchiness of sweet potatoes to mimic the taste of Oatmeal Stouts. "I want drinking beer to be equivalent to a good meal. A barbecue, grilled chicken, pizza, sushi...each of these meals has a specific flavor profile and experience. That is what we shoot for in crafting our beers," Mr. Henderson added.

Lazy Magnolia's varietals currently are not sold in Louisiana. However, they hope to expand into the market very soon. It will not be soon enough. For you readers in Mississippi, Alabama, and Florida, congrats on scoring such a fine product.

And please, go to check out SOFAB. It really is a great museum and the staff does a wonderful job or putting on presentations like this weekly.

Huge Weekend

Beer tasting at SOFAB, the LRA Expo, the Great American Seafood Cookoff, and a bunch of other events. Will rap them all up throughout the week. Stay tuned.

For now know this. The same guy who invented AK-47s; now makes Vodka. And it is the greatest vodka I have ever tasted. Forget the goose, Mr. Belvedere, or Skol; Kalashnikov Vodka, when it hits the market, will make your head spin. They also have a bottle of the stuff and the bottle mimics the deadly weapon.

For Lunch Today...

Fat. Kid. Special.

Liuzza's

Panneed chicken (oh yeah, it's under there) with roast beef and gravy on top. I like to add mozzarella to mine. Wash it down with an Abita Amber in a frozen mug.

Make sure to order it by name. The waiter will have no idea what you are talking about, so then you must explain and watch as he gives you a look which says: "You are ridiculous."

Get it while you can, because this kind of sandwich will be illegal if Obama gets elected.